Indofabs C.R.C & BHO Color Remediation Tek

Dont you extract with butane?

You’re the shit. I definitely enjoyed the schooling. You are greatly appreciated for your input

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I only use butane and I enjoyed this as much as you all did…now let’s level up this tek

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I’m wondering how you accumulated that much chlorophyll from filtering butane extracts.

How many times did you use that filter before it got to looking like that?

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Mine looked very similar from a single run

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I didnt use a coil to pre chill my butane before it hit the column and I opened up my molecular sieve and forgot to bleed it so the vapor pressure blew all my beads when I opened it…only had a few left to replace them that time :(…so my butane had a lil moisture

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I wonder if moisture content in the butane will have an effect on the performance of the silica gel layer.

Maybe make for better affinity of the polar molecules? :thinking:

You are stalling with the clay, then flushing it through the celite, correct? In theory, my plan to go in the second chamber to warm up for an allotted time then flushing, is roughly what you want to be doing?

No it just passes through…The clay only makes contact for maybe 60 sec…I stalled before and noticed no difference…added heat…also no difference…passed twice through same cake…that increased effectiveness

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Also I noticed better color retention when I used more butane to increase dilution ratio

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Interesting. I can make a stack right after my dewaxing filter and have it all happen right there…

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Yea lol so easy a caveman can do it

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You guys got clear using other stuff…I’m curious how some of those will work when I add to my steps

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I like drying out the clay prior to use… Do you use it warm, or chill it again in a sealed container? I’d be worried if it was warm my buchner might break from mixing such a cold solution with a warm media.

I was designing a cake on paper yesterday trying to decide what and why and in which order. Keep in mind I’ll be working with an ethanol extraction, but much of it will be somewhat similar. Also, my process is not part of an inline system.

I’ll do initial extraction, and filter it over grade 1 filter paper to remove any pass through plant material or other large contaminanta.

Then I’ll add enough ethanol, based off the maximum projected oil weight, to ensure the solution is not super saturated going into winterization by bringing it to at least 10:1 etoh to oil.

After a 2hr dry ice freeze, hoping not to crash any thca during this time period, I’ll filter over grade 1 filter paper again to remove the majority of fats and waxes.

I’ll add, pre-dehydrated(ty @Waxplug1) t-5 at a percentage of ?%(any thoughts guys?), directly to my flask of winterized solution and mix the solution while bringing it slowly up to about 60°F, but more if @Photon_noir or @Shadownaught can suggest a good temp with this ethanol solution.

After mixing I’ll let the solution settle and decant it into my filter stack starting with celite, then passing into activated alumina, then mag-sil PR, and finally another stage of celite.

I’ll repeat the bentonite mixing and filter stack until it’s either clear or causing no noticeable color improvements.

At the end I’ll pile my used bentonite on top of my stack and flush the whole system with fresh etoh to recover any retained cannabinoids that can be washed back into solution.

Then, and I mention this since we have been discussing slabs mostly, I’ll recover the majority of my etoh via a countertop alcohol distiller, and throw it into a heated vacuum purge. I imagine my final steps, being somewhat rudimentary will impact my final color, but I’m hoping not by much.

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The silica will definitely help

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@Waxplug1 since you still make yellow products and you say your customers like yellow shatter. What’s the biggest complaint you hear or have personally?

And the real challenge should be who can take the shittiest material and clear tek it!

To even further add to this post. I’d really like to know now if magsil pr is used like this. Can we butane pesticide remediation like this as well.

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Even with etho try to not go to far past 30c or so. To keep quality of the initial extract.

How hot does that counter top unit run at?

I would think so, dred is using cheap magsil and it seems to be effective.

So the PR grade stuff should work better than that.

While the color tek is awesome. Imagine if you can remedy hot material like this. It would literally open up millions of doors for equipment already in use and available cheap.

Think about this. Not even worrying about the color. Just dumping a pesticide riddled oil mixture threw a whole long column of magsil pr and seeing if it removes the pesticides effectively. This could be done to crude so cheap.

This is just scratching the surface

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78.5C for alcohol distillation with it. I don’t think it sets lower than that. I haven’t had a chance to use it yet, but I was never going to be able to afford a rotovap rn. I initially approached ethanol extractions with the intent to decarb and ultimately make carts.