Ok old material is hard to get the right color Total cannabinoids Yes we can get that high but CBN Will hurt in the 8 % range
if you’re talking about the PVC pipe I’ve never used that.
My welch is connected directly to the Omega digital vac gauge and then into the cold trap. From the cold trap it goes directly to the SPD/cow. …probably between 3-4 feet total length.
Have You checked your usual leak parts such as the temperature probe inserts ? And vacuum conect ?
I really want You to start with the deepest vacuum
near the end of the process I’ve seen my levels get as low as 300 microns or a bit below. Way back in the past before I was even doing any filtering or had a stir bar I was dumping straight crude into the SPD and able to get as low as 100 microns.
Realistically, how long should I be running the vac before turning on the heat?
30 min the hotter the pump the better the work
Last video I watched you run and the vac levels were around 800-1000 if I can’t recall right, and that was around your cannabinoid fraction.
Have you done a vac pump oil change and changed when the pump is hot? Have you tried to isolate your pump and see the vac level without your system??
Edit…so i watched the video where you explain everything for the god know what time. I really think you need to get those vac levels way down. I see all this hoses threw the table and with all types of fittings and hose clamps. I really think before you go running that 900g. You need to start isolating your system and figuring where your vacuum pump runs directly attached to the vac gauge. Id try to bypass all that stuff going threw the table first…and just see what your vacuum pump is capable of pulling without any other obstruction or fitting.
Once you do that…add the trap…Check your vacuum again. Ive seen people run vacuum levels with your pump and a similar system pull way lower. Check out @Eastcoaststrange thread. He is using the exact same setup practically as yours but with a different cold trap…
Also, id check were you have your Kangaroo thermometer hooked up on your head for a vacuum leak…no matter what 14/20 adapter i used. I could not get that spot to seal with the thinner diameter thermometer. Once i changed that out for a cheap $3 mercury one…my whole system dropped low. Once you get that vacuum under control. I think @Soxhlet suggests running your condenser much hotter…you dont necessary to go all breaking dabs hot condenser tech but Sox advised me to run my condenser at 80c right from the jump.
Also, i think if you chilled with ramping up the temps as fast as you do…you will be able to cut your fractions way tighter.
Ok so i gave been checking My log books
3 year old material never gave a good color dark amber at its best
But times have changed either activated Carbon in the boiling flask or De
But as @soxlet recomended on a other tread C bleach scrub
Any one that can give up a few ounce to help this man out of C bleach ??
Colombolabs can t deliver Any time soon😢
When putting A-C /DE in the boiling flask realize that isomerization can occur for iT is often acidic
But Some Amazing color ups have been demostrated
I literally only understood about half of what you said there.
I’m having a problem with my phone though and it’s stuck in headphone mode so I can’t make a video because it won’t record sound.
another question, If I started the process, and got about 6-8 hours through it and then couldn’t continue, would it ruin anything to shut it all down and then start again the next day?
As long as You are able to leave vacuum on When turning off the heat for say 30 min so that the boiling flask gets to below the 120 C before adding ambient air ( oxygen)
IT s fairly safe yet i must advise to do as little as possible heat and cannabinoids aren t best of friends so the less heat needed to your goal the better
so i shut off the heat and stuff, and keep the vac running until the oil drops to below 120C…does this prevent oxidation of something?
I can’t always sit around for 14 hours (hell even 8 is a stretch sometimes) or sometimes things come up. so it’s good to know that I can stop and resume the process.
Yes that s iT even better leave pump on so No O2 ever enters
Adjustable heat gun + auto store high heat silicon hose makes a quick and cheap hot condenser.
Or you can run your condenser dry and throttle with aluminum foil and your mantle temp. It makes a big difference on the color and smell of your final product.
leaving the pump on…that’s a good idea actually.
I do have an adjustable heat gun.
Have been contemplating the heat gun Condenser tech
If You can adjust temps on the gun Yes give iT a shot
But If You can t don t try temps are way to hot
So make sure your Condenser is empty of liquid befor heat gun approach
And make sure your vacuum hose to coldtrap can withstand high temps because all that doesn t condensate Will enter hose hot towards the cold trap
Ok this is how i would do the heat gun teck
Set glass condensor in a as straight slightly inclined posision
Fill condensor with a liquid that has the boiling point of your desired temperature
If tubes connected to condensor can withstand that heat leave attached If not remove point Condenser inlets upwards
Place heatgun in a clamp towards condensor
Light iT up
If liquid in condensor starts to boil You know the temp inside lower heat When neccesary