Do you use glycol to prevent it from freezing or rusting?
I’m ignorant
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The trick is to install a commercial thermostat so your rheem whole house propane heater can hit 160F . It seems to me that there is a cut off point for recovery where it’s hard to go over 5lbs a minute unless you really crank that heat up . Even with 2” hard piped recovery or all the bells and whistles. As long as you shut off the heat when your down the to 30% solvent your fine you won’t burn your extract or boil off all your terps . Call me crazy but on my next build in a month or two I plan on incorporating 2 and I will hit over 10lbs a minute . 1 heater for the jacket and 1 heater for the bottom bowl and coil and I will be selling my 12kw China heater . Make sure you get a radiant heat floor pump for circulation most other pumps shit out and won’t handle the heat . For safety reasons you should use a holding tank that runs on glycol so you don’t freeze and burst a jacket or coil I have heard of it happening
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My new unit will have 2 heaters as well, 1 for the collection vessels and 1 for material column recovery.
Freezing makes the most sense for glycol. I’m intrigued still
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Prevent from freezing, copper wouldnt rust and water would be totally fine but due to evaporative cooling you could chance freezing up water in your jackets.
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I have heard of the internal coil bursting . My homie went to use the internal coil but ditched the idea because of how much restriction it caused and was running straight water . Months later the coil bursted randomly mid run pretty terrifying . Guess it twisted and whipped around like a mother fucker in there too . Also if your facility has a power outage or it gets below freezing and your jacket is filled with water it can warp your tank / jacket and ruin your set up had this happen to me which is why I started running glycol not to mention the coil horror story . The solvent we inject into the collection is so cold it can even freeze your coil/ jacket
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Yeah copper won’t rust, I was thinking some of the “304 stainless” could
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If your in a cold climate you should always dump your water out of your jacket at the end of the day and before you blast into your collection.
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I always inject into a collection vessel with water in the jacket still. Have never seen a freeze there. Have people actually had that happen?
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I’ve had it freeze in the shop over night and during injection. For me not worth the risk. It doesn’t take much to to flush the jacket out with nitrogen
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I’ve had a column freeze overnight.
But for my own curiosity, when it froze injecting into the collection, how long was it before you started recovery?
Yep, that’s why I like some glycol in there too.
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Not sure how long it took but he ran daily with it for a while before it randomly happened. The thing about draining your jacket is then when you start recovery you experience thermal shock from having your collection probably at -20 from injecting cold solvent and then it gets hit with warm water or even room temp. This is probably one of the scariest parts of running a CLS so I try to avoid thermal shock . When injecting into a collection filled with glycol the temperature change isn’t as much so it feels safer to me . My collection never even frosts over and my heater is slowly increasing temp instead of instant temp change . I run my gas pretty chilled my crc is -20 while my pot never even frosts .
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I’ve frozen collection jackets (even with glycol) for a couple or three reasons. During recovery not injection.
Heat wasn’t on.
Valve on jacket was closed.
Quick connect wasn’t actually connected.
I guess I’ve also had an ETS actually freeze during injection. No glycol that time. Didn’t try that trick again till I had glycol in my jackets.
Once upon a time I ran HC-50 in the jackets on my PX-1 so I could switch between the heating and cooling loops at will. it worked, but I probably wouldn’t do it again.
I prefer the hot or vac / cold or vac setup @Graywolf gave us many moons ago
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Luckily the thought crossed my mind as I was injecting and flushed it quick so it was really only one water quick connect that froze up. Poured hot water over it and got it going. only set me back like 20 minutes
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This is indubitably TRUE! It’s the sensitivity of the flow sensor to temperature that causes them to fail when recirculated water INLET temperature gets above about 100°F!
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We pair Hubbell tankless water heaters made for commercial use with our systems. This heater paired with a taco pump and some properly sized copper piping is all that’s needed! We have 12kw, 24kw, and 48kw models in stock! Pumps in stock too! NRTL rated and fairly easy to set up. Recommend installing minimum 3ft away from your c1d1 booth.
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What’s that?
Not quite as good as grundfos…but decent reputation for hot water circulation.
My goto, except on zero budget builds
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$4,200 seems like alot considering I could easily recover like 100 lbs of 70/30 with a $800 unit in no time
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