Very calm, smoking my morning blunt and hitting the forums before 9am meetings is my routine.
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I guess crucifixion means something different to us both. Have a good day man.
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Helpful tip remove the screens from the water inlet
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Agreed.
Did you pop back and read from whence I quoted you? (It’s a useful thread for those on the same voyage you were back then)
Back in 2019 you stated that
I was suggesting that your issue (back then) was perhaps the one that @Lincoln20XX bought up in the post above mine.
So no actual question.
You’ve agreed, and mentioned another sensor that could be the problem.
Glad you figured it out, and thank you for sharing with the class. Sounds like you’ve gotten more than a couple to do your bidding at this point.
There is also usually a FLOW sensor, which is how the unit figures out you’re demanding hot water and actually gets to making some for you.
navien makes the best units.
one can turn them up to 180f and boil alcohol if they desire…
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One can boil ethanol at -40C if they desire
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s l o w l y
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Tell that to the rotary vane pump drinking ALL of it 
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For the price of a Hubbell water heater you can get an actual recirculating heater
I had one custom built for my FFE that does 150L/min of recirculation and has 12 kw heating
They have heaters all the way up to 100 kw and they go to 200c (which i wanted for a FFE)
Beautiful low budget setup
Yeah man works great. Especially if you only need water to get to 100/110f. After the reservoir has made a full loop it really doesn’t need much power to keep the water at the desired temp cause it’s already warmed up
Ya it was a bit trick to figure out but it’s almost always the flow sensor, you can get around this in most cases by double the flow rate of the heater and having a small “open bath” where the water can actually leave the system and drop into the open bath and back into the pump. Tricks the pressure drop part of the flow sensor.
And if you need real heat look at the Hubble NX series. 250k btu - 750k btu unbeatable controls touch screen.
But can’t beat 1200$ for a 12v 100,000 btu heater 
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Here’s my water heater system feeding the Luna recovery.
460v hubbel, and the little tank is just for make up glycol, its valve is always closed unless im adding water to the circuit. PRV’s go out of the room to a floor drain (using food grade glycol of course.)
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Do you use glycol to prevent it from freezing or rusting?
I’m ignorant
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The trick is to install a commercial thermostat so your rheem whole house propane heater can hit 160F . It seems to me that there is a cut off point for recovery where it’s hard to go over 5lbs a minute unless you really crank that heat up . Even with 2” hard piped recovery or all the bells and whistles. As long as you shut off the heat when your down the to 30% solvent your fine you won’t burn your extract or boil off all your terps . Call me crazy but on my next build in a month or two I plan on incorporating 2 and I will hit over 10lbs a minute . 1 heater for the jacket and 1 heater for the bottom bowl and coil and I will be selling my 12kw China heater . Make sure you get a radiant heat floor pump for circulation most other pumps shit out and won’t handle the heat . For safety reasons you should use a holding tank that runs on glycol so you don’t freeze and burst a jacket or coil I have heard of it happening
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My new unit will have 2 heaters as well, 1 for the collection vessels and 1 for material column recovery.
Freezing makes the most sense for glycol. I’m intrigued still
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Prevent from freezing, copper wouldnt rust and water would be totally fine but due to evaporative cooling you could chance freezing up water in your jackets.
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