How to sugar crystal

Sounds good! All that money sitting there I will give it a run and see what happens. Have more then enough material! I will let you get on with your night thanks for the help!

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Sorry one last thing… do you have a preference on brand of denatured alcohol

From Walmart or Home Depot. The cheap shit. I throw it away after

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@Duddy9211 I have a 70/30 blend that I was using when I made that stuff. I was actually just experimenting with diamonds. @Killa12345 showed me some :fire::fire::fire: he made and I thought I would give it a shot. The trick is the temp my bro. Put your solvent in dry ice the night before along with your column already packed. In the morning just fill the sleeve with dry ice and run it. I didn’t know what I was doing so I poured it to thick and then didn’t purge it like I should have. I gave it a day flipped purged a little more and set it on the shelf. When I looked at It a couple of days latter it looked like it was partially crystallized in the thicker areas. @Killa12345said it looked good so I just Jared it like that and set it on the shelf. It ended up looking like store bought honey when it gets really cold.

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Yeah Killa right…colder!

After tank gets negative, remove from dry ice slurry to build to +10-15psi or ur right, it won’t move … Need to be in positive if not pushing cryo negative psi solvent w + psi nitro boost…

But sugar the easiest, once u achieve temp, that makes all the difference…pure material can’t help but crash! Live or dried and cured unless to old of material

Let all evap

Jar or place in pan and cover… Don’t forget to purge it in the end when it’s done just in case,-20low heat 2-4 days

Edit

I’ve seen batches that was just left out to open air and buddered up…so even seal the pan if using it instead jar

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How would i pressurize solvent tank? Compressor with check valve to prevent backflow of butane?

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Explain

Ur tank should be under pressure unless in cryo

Then either use food grade nitrogen vapors to add positive pressure to your tank to move cryo solvent…

Or use another spare tank w warm solvent vapors to push the cryo solvent tank, Daisy chained together, hook into vapor port to vapor port and push in same concept as nitrogen… The spare tank at 20-40psi warm gas

Another method to use coil in dry ice slurry pushing w warm solvent…

Or stick ur solvent tank into cryo once negative pull out build +10-20psi and inject

Air compressor equals bad idea I’d imagine…adding air to butane makes for nice pipe bomb

They tons ways to move cold solvent, nitro vapors being the best…
Always vac down ur system before injection to top injection tank for extra pull too!

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I was unable to respond to the below message yesterday. I was concerned that with a passive bidirectional closed loop system if my solvent tank was colder or as cold as my collection chamber (that is also in dry ice) the pressure would be less/equal in my solvent tank then the collection chamber and not allow my solvent to move from tank to closed loop system. From my limited experience with my bidirectional closed loop set up I bring my collection chamber to a negative with vac pump but once solvent starts to transfer from my solvent tank to my closed loop it causes it to become less negative or even positive by the time my extraction is done.

So I noticed you said to remove my solvent out of dry ice and allow it to become positive 10-15 degrees so it can travel to the closed loop system. Please note I do not have pressure gauge on my solvent tank so i do not know its normal pressure. So with that said I did not know if you somehow add pressure to solvent tank.

Yeah Killa right…colder!

After tank gets negative, remove from dry ice slurry to build to +10-15psi or ur right, it won’t move … Need to be in positive if not pushing cryo negative psi solvent w + psi nitro boost…

But sugar the easiest, once u achieve temp, that makes all the difference…pure material can’t help but crash! Live or dried and cured unless to old of material

Let all evap

Jar or place in pan and cover… Don’t forget to purge it in the end when it’s done just in case,-20low heat 2-4 days

Edit

I’ve seen batches that was just left out to open air and buddered up…so even seal the pan if using it instead jar

Sorry i just seen your full explanation

Is bidirectional bottom flood first provide a added benefit? How long do you allow for saturation?

I don’t do bidirectional., nor do I soak(I go for pure diamond or live grade)…i was just helping u move cold solvent

Btw I didn’t say 10-15f …I said 10-15psi…

I like to inject just as cold as the sleeved material column is, but yes it will not move without assists from one the following, nitro vapors, a spare tank, let tank warm to + psi after cooling in cryo/ or last but not least you can inject through coil to cool solvent, there’s 4 different ways to send cold solvent

10-15psi is still really cold after warming up from cryo cold… But lately I want even colder,I’ll add nitro bump which is best

U really need gauge, and a prv if running blend on ur tank and collection I think, but that’s me

I want gauge no matter what!

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Thanks for all the help and sorry mis-typed 10-15F meant psi. I will 100 % get a gauge on tank. I am only running butane atm but want to do blend and will get a pressure relief valve. What pressure should it be set to? I will let you know how it goes and leave you alone here for a little LOL. Thanks again

I wanna go ahead & add that you can also move solvent with good vacuum pull on your closed loop depending how you’re set up. The system I ran was a 60lb tank of tane with initial vac setup to the left on a passive ball joint line coming to my in/ return setup. Then ran to top of colum & through to collection chamber & had a lid with a extra hose port for a inline dewaxer & a super sized dryer for the return. Hooked to a sparkless vac then to a dry ice chiller that day in a dry ice iso slurry that was cryo temp to the point the only line that wasn’t frozen was the one returning the gas. But long story short, pull deep vac you’ll pull a whole tank through, just have to know how to feather the throttle :ok_hand:t3: - cheebachiefextracts

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So I had a crazy idea no idea if it would be worth it. What if you recovered all your solvent and then pull a vac (-20hg) in the honey pot and have it sit for two weeks in the chamber on heating mat at 85°F. Would that produce sugar? Of course the setup would have to be a rack and column setup w/columns separate from the collection/honey pot that way you can use the pot as a chamber -after full solvent recovery-. Again just an idea. Perhaps a separate collection pot to clear the closer loop system of solvent but I think one could utilize two collection pots if sugar can be made directly in the pot.

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This is what greywolf used to make, called it cotton candy shatter.

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I don’t see why it wouldn’t, it’s just the evap of the rest of solvent plus cosolvent terps, if pure it’ll happen
…I do same thing I just take it out the honey pot and seal though, so seal it up

But you wouldn’t wanna do it under vac…my understanding is that the vac will cause it not to happen…

Just RECOVEER all seal the lid, no vac, heat or not, is gonna happen, just colder it is may take longer. Leave it open it may budder “curing” to fast

I like to transfer to PTFE, makes for easier clean up and it can breathe and"cure"faster during the seal… And nothing sticks

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Ahhhh okay, so it would be more ideal for transfer onto an oil slick parchment inside a Pyrex tray and let sit in vacuum oven no vacuum just heat.

So what if you use a splatter platter setup. After you recover all the solvent you could seal off the platter with a stainless end cap or a lid with sight glasses and a high pressure clamp. Then you could move the spool with the extractor on it to a different splatter platter and empty the system.

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Sounds like a diamond miner is all… I wouldnt worry about sealing in vessel if going in vac oven, it’ll probably act as the sealed stage just being shut… Sound like over kill for sugar…

Low heat 70-80 keep terps…I even clean mine after the crash for another 2-4 days -15to -20vac 70-80f…and oil slick paper may be Overkill, just something I’ve added

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I’ve recently been successful at making large batches of eho sugar crystals in pyrex. By the time I suspect the separation to be complete the crystals are not faceted making it extremely difficult to pour off the excess terp fraction.

Any body have methods on locking loose crystals down to the bottom for easy decanting?