Help diy hydroponics nutrient recipe

Botany and Cultivation
1

Hello
I cultivate in hydro ebb n flo recirculating for 10 years.
mapito substrate (rockwool chunck moss pe chunck) bucket 30 liter
air-cooled installation
I have very good results with my installation.
I would like to have advice on nutrition if I do bad or good
currently
in bloom
N180ppmP44ppmk320ppm Ca 200ppm mg50ppm Si? Oligotrace

product to use for this recipe:
yara calcinit N15.5 Ca26.5
yara krystalon brown
N3 p11 k38 mgo4 oligotrace
silic boost Sioh4 48% 1ml / 10litre
thank you all

2

I don’t use salts but that looks like a lot of nitrogen for flowering, I could be wrong…

3

yes I slowed it down nitrogen at mid flo my my calcium falls with

4

Like I said I don’t do salts.
In a living organic soil, the plant takes what it needs and leaves what it doesnt! No need to worry about those things

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5

Jack’s 321 FTW
Edit: Add some AGT-50 to help boost

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6

I’m looking for a recipe with

Calcium nitrate

Mkp

Potassium sulfate etc etc…

My thanks anyway

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7

Like @Miles-Beyond said…

Jacks 3-2-1 is essentially all you need…

The Peters family has nearly the longest history in the nutrient production sector.

Any other big box nute manufacturers; Athena, AdvancedNutes, etc… all follow the basic Jacks final blend molecular composition.

Athena may have some more P or K, but those are trivial at the levels they differ.

I use Jacks for my facilities, mixed with certain organic amendments and liquid additives (humic/aminos, seaweed extract for the PGR effect and growth/shoot modulation, tribus for the microbiome, etc…)…

You can use cannabis oriented blends if you really DONT know what youre doing, and you DONT want to spend the time to learn your own recipe blends.

Athena has really good feeding schedules, and I really would stray away from advanced nutes, or any of those guys.

Any organic additives wont usually hurt, as long as you follow the listed dosage, and only if you ARENT feeding a HIGH PPM base blend already. Fish emulsion, seaweed extracts, bat guano, bone meal, blood meal, etc, are all great additives. You will see boosts in various areas of growth. None of these organic additives are necessary, but they do aid in harboring/building a beneficial biome for your rootzones.
Organic additives are typically NOT immediately bioavailable for the rootzone to uptake, they rather feed the biome around the root zone, which digest the organic additives and exude/excrete various micro/macro nutrients that the roots then take up…

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8

Thank you for your answer cannachem

I’m not a beginner in mixing I’m coming to ask here because I’ve seen a great skill dear some member and I’m really not a fan of incorporating organic ingredients into my tanks.

Organic in foliar why not

Thank you for your answer cannachem

9

You numbers above are pretty much in line with a commercial production recipe. What are the problems you’re trying to fix?

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10

Hi emdub27

I’m still trying to improve my recipe.

I read your emdub27 message on nutrition on the forum impressed you.

I thought I was in the right place to learn more.

I would like to make complete recipes.

Not with a pre-mix bag

Thanks

11

I’m thinking about growing nutrient

N 200ppm P 40 K200ppm 185Ca 50mg

Beginning of flowering medium of flowering

Lower nitrogen gradually and increase potassium to the end

N 80ppm P40ppm K360ppm 185Ca 50mg

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Vegetative N 200 p40 k200 ca 185 mg50
Flowering stage
Week 1.2.3 N180 p40 k250 ca 185 mg50
Week 4.5.6 N 140 p40 k 300 ca 185 mg50
Week 7.8.9 N80 p40 k 360 ca 185 mg50

1 Like
13

Just so you know I solely run large scale commercial stuff and do not do tapering mixes. One mix for veg, one mix for flower. Someone else here may be significantly more knowledgeable in running a tapering mix.

I am also one of the few stupid enough to pursue brix numbers with inorganic salts and soilless media.

That being said, in veg, I would prefer to see an K:N ratio of roughly 1.4-1.8. 1:1 is going to yield a bunch of stretchy luxurious growth. In flower I would never go past about 3:1 K:N or they are going to finish really, really fast. Your proposed 4.5:1 finish isn’t something I’ve ever tried, but i think it would cause a plant to basically finish out in +/- 1 week.

Your reasoning makes sense, we want to use up all the nitrate in plant by harvest to not smoke it. I personally would do that by running more sensible N:K ratios the whole way, so nitrate isn’t building up over time.

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14

Many thanks emdub27

I’m thinking about a new composition

I’ll post it here

15

Vegetative

N130 P40 K180 Ca180 mg60

Flower

N150 P50 k300 Ca 180 mg50

As did you do the brix technique with @emdub27 refractometer?

16

I just made a recipe

With the salts I had at home for vegetative
300 liter tank nutrient

127.2g calcium nitrate 15,5N 26,5Cao
111.2g kristalon brown 3N 11p2o5 38k2o 4mgo oligo trace
12g magnésium sulphate
1,6g mkp
1g iron dtpa
My tape water N 20,6 K 3,63 Ca58 mg4 ec0.4
Result:
N 100 P 27 K135 Ca138 mg50 S150 oligo trace
Fe 2,5

17

Yes I use a refractometer.

Your nitrate levels will be dictated by your environment (light intensity, transpiration, co2), then you can build off of that. You’re bouncing all over the place with nitrate levels on your proposed mixes. If you have a “standard” veg setup at +/- 550umol, in my experience, the ideal nitrate level will be somewhere around 150-175ppm. Then you can play with K:N ratios.

Flower can be much more complex. As you can tell by various commercial offerings there are 2 paths to choose from. You can run something similar to Jacks/Veg bloom ratios (Relatively sane K:N ratio) or run something similar to HGV/Athena ratios (high K) I’ve seen very similar tissue data from both, they’re honestly 2 different paths that arrive at the same conclusion. In a commercial environment I would choose to error high on K because it will help with fungal pathogens.

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18

Ok thanks @emdub27

Recipe athena ag for 1liter A and B

Athena core
Nitrate calcium 93,5g 14,5N Ca 17,7
Kelamix complex edta 2g

Athena bloom
Mkp 23g p51,6 k65,12
Potassium sulphat 32g. k 134 S 57,6
Mg sulphat 32g. Mg 30 S 41
Fer dtpa 0,83g. Fe1

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19

Athena grow for 1liter

Mkp 15,38g P 34.4 K 43.41
Potasium sulphat 15,42g K 66,59 S 28
Potasium nitrate 14,6g N20 K56
Mg sulphat 32g. Mg 30 S 41
Iron dtpa 0,83g Fe 1

1 Like
20

What are you using to calculate? Most around here use hydrobuddy.

I haven’t accomplished an exact clone for Athena. From what I can tell there is another form of acidic phosphate in bloom and grow that isn’t mkp.

Athena works well for many. If you start from a clone and slowly tweak the macro ratios, watching how they change morphologhy, you should be able to end up very close to perfect for your environment and cultivars.

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