What leads you to believe the red color is gums?
Please keep us updated if you can remediate red color in this way. T5/silica/hardwood charcoal doesn’t touch red for no matter how many times i send it through.
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And how do they bleach those oils?
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I was told that by a trusted person.
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I have just got alumina to further try and remove the red elements. I’ll keep you guys updated as I go along.
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degumming will help; but the distillate will still oxidize red ontop/ the surface exposed to oxygen
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the oxidation ontop will be alotttt less however. only a few mms versus like a cm with couple month old distillate in a jar
In your opinion what is it that oxidizes to the red color, the cannabinoids? I have carts that never show any red oxidation after months of being on it (ceramic ccells). I’m curious to if that could be due to complete removal of gums vs not.
Carts made properly really shouldnt have a red layer at all…there sealed off from the atmosphere pretty much and only a pin hole is exposed, jars of distillate have a whole top layer due to the lid being opened/closed… half filled mason jars will oxidize 2x as fast versus one filled to the brim. Has to do with the cannabinoids natural oxidizing (ph changes) glass itself has different pHs depending on quality/where the glass is made/sourced along with the lids and seals. Schott or scientific type bottles with ptfe lids and/or proper gaskets need to be used.
Degumming will help tremendously but itll still oxidize once exposed to atmosphere enough. Not trying to be a bragger or anything but had @Deleted pretty much do everything when he was in our lab before any bleaches/gums/powders even came out (besides regular carbon/silica) we did 6x water washes, degummed, multiple winterizations, redid in pentane, and even over a 4ft column of ALL magsilPR and itll still oxidize. Will be literally water clear for awhile until opened; in a cart itll stay for a long time. Thats when we tried to remove myclo with just pure MagsilPR we used so much $$$ worth of it i still have cbleach and powders with old testing labels/before it went straight to carbon chemistry.
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I contacted my local labs to identify
The red.
No luck.
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the metal themselves within the cartridges and the glass walls all have “pHs” along with distillate; any changes in pH via difference between distillate/glass/metal/ceramic etc can cause a reaction. red is a color of oxidation, like how rust is “red”
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Ok, so I used the same jar with a ceramic cart and a normal metal cart. The ceramic had zero red happen even after 3 months. The metal one started getting red by the holes. That disappeared once you hit the pen a couple of times, but came back again. I’m opting for full ceramic after that.
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I used 10% alumina and 10% silica to filter a 4%carbon, 6% t41 and 1.6 g degum enzyme hot scrub. I had 1654g in 5 gal, didn’t notice any color remediation so far. Still came out red like blood. Might see a difference after winterizing tomorrow. Maybe not until the actual run. I’ll keep you posted.
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remove solvent and hot scrub oil with bleaching clay. report back, you’ll be happy.
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T41 is bleaching clay. And I did it with just the oil for 20 min between 92-75c. Then 20 min degum in etho for 20 min.
and granule size plays an important role.as well as time and temperature. there’s nothing in our oils that other industry’s aren’t already pros at removing, just research and adapt.
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Read my edit to the previous post.
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I was thinking the same application with like palm oil or others but at the end of the day nothing like a pure gold clean pass
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I still haven’t tried bleaching clay between first and second pass, cause I’ve only done one second pass pretty much.