Sorry about the double posting. Just been way out of it lately.
I have all my extract suspended in methanol now 6:1, and it’s still very black after washing over alumina (on top of a generous B80 clay layer and celite). I was told this crude was run through a wiped film once and it was ethanol extracted, though I wasn’t told if it was cold etoh or room temp. By the looks of it, it almost looks like a hot ethanol wash. Surprisingly I pulled a ton of green with the fats. It seems the B80 pulled some green as well. I was thinking of running it through carbon while in methanol, but I’d really like to see how it comes out after evaporating the methanol, dissolving in heptane 4:1, and running through a CRC column under positive pressure. Here’s pics of what I pulled with the methanol dewax below. The green layer felt VERY greasy between my fingers, so I’m pretty sure it was waxed and fats that I pulled.
Looks like a solid cleanup so far!
I believe it was dred saw pinks in his aa. Aa is super cheap and also helps with moisture.
If I can make a solid distillate out of this etoh crude (which seems to be room temp extracted) I think I might just do chest-freezer temp extractions (-20c) when I go to scale up. It would save a ton of energy and money trying to get it below -50 and the post processing I’m doing now really doesn’t seem all that much more labor intensive than the post processing I would do anyway with a -50c extraction.
My only gripe with RT etoh extractions is the fucking mess that the chlorophyll leaves all over the equipment. And it’s not easy to clean. I think the labor costs in cleaning the chlorophyll off of everything might outweigh the savings with increased solubility and decreased energy cost.
There’s a fine balance between temperature, residence times, yields and undesirable pickup. You can get gold off room temp if it’s fast enough.
I’ve been opting for -18c with about 25min unagitated soak.
I don’t have any data to back up my results though, so who knows.
I bet an automotive parts cleaner would help quite a bit with cleaning.
Check this out
I’m thinking that’s about the sweet spot as well. I guess I should mention that my room temp etoh “wash” that I attempted in order to pull whatever was left over from the cold wash actually a 2 day soak, so that definitely could have been a factor for how much chlorophyll was pulled. I did find that what I pulled from that experiment wasn’t worth the extra effort and was better left on the biomass and written off as loss.
I’ve been thinking of installing one of those. I guess in comparison, even my dirtiest glass isn’t shit compared to the parts I had to clean back in the day when I was playing mechanic. And that thing definitely saved a ton of time.
Floc? Is that fats and waxes
Yea fats an waxes formed into a floc. Formed because of the addition of bentonite (a flocculating agent)
Thankyou, nvr heard that term before. So that is also bentonite
I had never heard it before either until someone in the very clear bho thread mentioned the word when we were talking about pvpp
I must have missed that one.
The amount of bentonite was insignificant, probabky something close to 1% of the weight of the whole solution. What you are seeing is almost entirely lipids.
Holy hell, what a difference! You did say a “tiny” bit of bentonite. I’m thinking like a half teaspoon per liter?
As a side note, by the time I’m done polishing this liter of extract I’m a little worried there won’t be enough volume to properly fill my 2l BF for distillation. I know this is probably better asked in a distillation thread, but would anyone know offhand the minimum ammount that a 2l BF should be charged with?
Edit: I see in the post above roughly 1% weight. So like 8 grams per liter sounds about right, given 1l oleoresin in methanol is roughly (very roughly) 800 grams.
I always thought the problems arise from having too much extract in the boiling flask. Should still work well with a small amount of extract
About 1 tbsp per liter sounds like a good metric but i just dont know if thats being wasteful for the specific application. Then again were talking about a tablespoon lol.
Ah, ok. I was just concerned that overdoing the bentonite clay might yield unfavorable results.
The flocculating action of the bentonite actually causes all particles in solution to lose their charge and once thats gone they have no force keeping them suspended in the solution so they begin to get pushed down by the forxe of gravity.
Adding too much bentonite will not cause any bad effects, you will just have to wait for the bentonite to drop to the bottom of the solution which does take longer than the lipids.