I use paper under my powders in a filter stack attached to a 6" column
Idk why i hadn’t thought about that, but PM sent! Do you prefer the paper over the metal mesh filters? I’m just worried about blowing out paper filters at 60 PSI.
I dont use the screen part of the fikter stack. I just use the round ring pressing it down with the paper. No blow outs yet.
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Yields?
Stuff will slip under your plate if it’s just places in a bowl that’s bigger than it. I’ve tried…
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Aw, lame… I also have a 2" spool with a sintered disk and filter stack. Maybe I can hook that up to the bowl reducer to catch all the fines that slip through. Seems like there’s a universal 2-week wait time for those damn 4" filter stacks.
Probably due to the color remediation threads lol
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Yooo You are paving roads for us here
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After hearing about another member mention they had good results from letting their solution sit overnight with T5, I was able to do a side by side experiment without interrupting my production too much…
This is from the same batch of room temp extracted hemp.
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Left beaker was scrubbed warm with T5 and allowed to cool before filtering over a bed of AC, Celite and 8um paper filter
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Right Beaker was scrubbed warm with T5 and allowed to cool overnight before filtering over a bed of Celite and 8um paper filter
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@TerpFiend
How warm was the scrub? Also, how much t5 did you use, same for the ac? This is an excellent side by side! Now it would be great to know if one has more cannabinoids than the other.
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Haha, thank you, homie. I’m glad you think so. I’m just trying to give back as much as i can to this awesome community! Thank you for everything you’ve contributed too!
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Seems to confirm that the AC is purtinent for chlorophyll. There’s greens, browns, and some reds for chlorophyll spectrum?
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I flushed the bowl with all my used media and definitely got stuff out, it did start leeching out some green too, so be careful when you are flushing. I put 2 gallons through it.
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I use about 10g of T5 per liter of solution - so about 50g per 5L beaker
Heat to ~80°F and cooled to room temp
Edit: I use my hochstrom filter from summit and load it with ~2cups Celite and ~1cup AC(just enough to create a layer) per 15L of solution. I’ve found any more than the 15L and the filter cake slows almost down to a trickle.
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Thanks for that info. I myself found out that the last batch of room temp carried with it more water solubles, so i filtered to much through my media and got some charred sugars in the decarb pot. I’m going to revert to just using 5 gal for the above ratios I’ve provided to avoid this happening again. I need more testing with room temp extraction and better material before i can decide to go with cryo or room. I’m doing the spd run tomorrow, so I’ll know a bit more by then. The quest continues.
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Likewise - appreciate all your input as well
I’ve started to only process my hemp at room temp as it’s destined for isolate and am not as concerned with thermal degradation.
As for my cannabis biomass - if it’s for distillate, extract warm. Shatter or other forms of dabs, extract at subzero conditions
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I’ve started to follow a guy on IG that looks to be killing it with cryo EHO though!
Anyone know him or know if he’s an active member on here? Looks like we all could learn some things from him 
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@TerpFiend follow him as well, along with abels personal account (one of the extractors)
They use a Capnalabs Ethos 4 at -81c - -86c
Have yet to try myself with premo fire material through our delta washer but i imagine you extract as cold as possible then run through whatever filters/filter media followed by low temp rotovapes 35-45c to retain terpenes.
Where i dont know it to what solvent-solute ratio within the solution before they pour into pyrex dishes.
Then id imagine
(1) they throw in a vac oven and backfill with nitrogen
(2) theres enough saturation that at room temp the “crashing” happens then they vac purge remaining ethanol.
They cant be removing the ethanol completely otherwise itd be ethanol shatter
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If the magnesol can pull yellows that suggests we might be able to get much closer to a clear product considering it’s been yellow tints that remain in our current attempts.
Problems with reds could be remediated with activated alumina theoretically. I seem to recall @Dred_pirate saying alumina was pulling pinks at least. If not activated alumina perhaps it’s a result of different hues of yellow mixing with different hues to produce a red color. (I meant to post this yesterday)
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You don’t mention using ac in the second scrub, is that accurate?