I’ll get a second still to make etoh and use glassware to recover etoh. Its been years since that vacuum ran last, I think it tested at 5-10 micron then, am I going to need a vacuum regulator?
I’d do a cheap glass cold trap if I do a vacuum? I’ve been using gentle heat and a fan to dry the wash to the table sugar. If I got to doing extracts for vaporizing I’d look into the vac oven, just edibles currently though.
Got a chest freezer I’ll use for setting up a diy chiller, freeze some water in a commando tote
I’ll probably end up trying to decarb in the flask to save time & effort.
I guess decarbed so it would be d9. Decarbing in the flask would be to save time and be more consistent vs decarbing flower in smallish batches in oven or a nova. etoh wash flower either way
Disty coated sugar seems like a problem waiting to happen. No matter what you make with it the disty is oil soluble and the sugar is water soluble. You’ll get a separation during production that will likely prevent good homogenization because your d9 didn’t have a good chance to mix into whatever carrier your recipe had in it, if any.
If you’re thinking this will make for d9 sugar you can dissolve into drinks, I’ve seen that attempted before and it won’t work either.
Realistically you may not need any ethanol at all if you’re just trying to coat sugar with cannabinoids heat alone might be sufficient.
Personal medical use and as a caregiver, homogenization just needs to be good enough to make it work.
It is a bit chunky in cold coffee drinks and sticks to the glass a fair bit. Yeah decarbed extract coated sugar is…was the goal. Now I’m thinking making soda, or sugar/dextrin to dissolve in drinks is a better goal to have.
Especially if its as easy as mixing with cyclodextrin and etoh?
I’m going to have to read up on options…just read a bunch of posts from ~2020 with lots of discussion, and fighting, about solubility and thc/cbd sugar products… seems complicated…
Going to keep reading, maybe syrup instead of dry sugar should be the goal if I want solubility? Not exactly sure how that changes the problem though. Mostly patients here use it in coffee, sounds like you made a honey years ago that worked well for that purpose @cyclopath. It’s been a while since I was staying caught up with the 4200 forum, probably take me a bit to figure out what’s new/current in the world of dissolving thc/extracts and making drinks.
The 2ml I dropped in here probably delivers 80% of the payload. Don’t notice any variation in delivered dose from day to day, but I’m not sure I’d notice if said variation was less that 15% or so.
Edit: chased with boiling water to get an idea how much was left behind. Looks well less that 10% (200ul) to me
I’ve had a crazy sinus infection for the last couple days, though no covid according to the test at least. I am better enough to order some ingredients,
That looks like most of it comes out when you drink it, seems way better than the sugar. It looks like it requires way less volume of oil than the butter I’ve done before in coffee as well. That’s with no Maltodextrin?
That sounds good too! Gonna have to try both ways. I have got a pound or two of sunflower lecithin already. That mix mostly stays homogenized when stored at room temps?
I should probably search out the recipe rather than ask for an estimate on what ratio of ingredients to use to get a milky emulsion?
I’ll probably make a post about my recipe in the coming weeks. Working on scaling it up right now and sending samples to KCA this week to check how homogenous it really is this recipe is a good start if your interested in making a THC infused sweetener type product: CannaDrip Water-Soluble THC Syrup
Awesome! I hope it does the trick! You’ve probably seen (this article). I’ll check out that post, water soluble THC syrup would be a nice thing to have in the tool box for sure.
Bought a Corning PC-420. It and beakers should show up tomorrow. Going to try making the CannaDrip recipe and since I’ve got maltodextrin I’ll try to integrate that into a test batch of the CannaDrip somewhere in the process, maybe before the lecithin
Also: I had a friend give me some stainless steel alcohol stills and columns, in addition to what I’m getting myself. There is a 3 gallon stainless kettle with 2" sanitary column and condensers, can I use that to reclaim alcohol, maybe with a hot water bath and no vacuum? I’m looking at making a gallon or two of extract wash each run, recover alcohol, then using the extract in edibles. I am concerned that the heat needed to get vapor through the still might be enough to degrade the extract over time, but I don’t even really know how long it would take in my situation or if using material that hasn’t been de-carbed would work ok to then finish de-carbing on a magnetic stirrer-hotplate. I’m guessing it will be quicker and more electrically efficient to use the lab vacuum and glassware…with a large flask on the stirrer hotplate?
I’m not sure if this will get any attention after letting this thread sit for so long but I need some advice on ethanol recovery again. To review, I’m an amateur.
I made an etoh still out of a 15gal keg with ferrules silver soldered in. It’s using a 2" tri-clamp column and stainless shotgun and defleg to get etoh for cold washing.
I’m looking to recover etoh from the wash, about 2-5 gallons per run. Making clean tasting edibles and maybe an extract after vacuum filtering and recovering etoh.
I may have scaled out of the glassware I have though.
If I want to run a few gallons at once is there a way to use something like two five gallon kegs and sanitary tubing distillation parts to do vacuum etoh recovery with a WOB-L?
I was going to get one of those little WOB-L pumps off ebay, I think they are rated for ~100torr. At 100 torr I won’t need tygon type tubing, the stuff from home depot will do the job?
Show us your still…and explain why you can’t use that for solvent recovery…
Because your crude is then stuck in there?
Add a pour spout. Leave a little liqour. Finish purge while decarbing.
Why would you need a vacuum still for edibles?
You need that decarbed anyway. Nobody sees the color.
If the 15gal still you built is too big, make a smaller one. If you want to add vac, do so. The more you suck the colder you need to get your condenser. Otherwise you loose solvent.
That would be the issue with recovering your 190 in there.
You need indirect heat. Baine marie style is easier to fabricate than jacketed, but jacketed can be had cheap.
Pulling a slight vacuum to drop the evaporator temp can help when using a jacketed system with water/glycol. Allows for a greater delta t which make things work better.