My dart control says 515
Iām using sodium sulfateā¦ My bad. I add about a cup to 5 gallons and stir it in with a paint mixer then let it sit for 2hrs up to over night. The sodium sulfate is small grains almost like salt and itās in a big clump after we take the oil/heptane mix out of the bucket.
1 Like
Bingo.
Clumps are a strong no go.
How is your NA2SO4 stored?
How long is it exposed to air before used?
-
Swap to mgso4. It seems to work a hell of alot faster and is easier to make/aquire, also I think na2so4 can bind up more than water and stop good shit from getting to the partyā¦ Pick up some Epsom salt and throw it In the oven at fo hunnid overnight. Grind it as fine as you can afterwards, quickly. Throw it in jars packed tight, and vacuum sealed if you can, but a zip lock jar combo will work. I do this with my pre weighed amounts so itās a simple open and pour in when ready for use. You can also do all this with the na2so4 just give it a little more time to soak in the love.
-
Before adding salt to your soup, look at your glass and see if thereās droplets around the vessel, if so, swap vessels to dry, wait until the water can be separated from the bottom, or incorporate an appropriate amount of very very dry beads to your procedure and give them time to work to keep things simple. Get creative but make sure you canāt see moisture.
-
When you add your drying agent to the solution mix it up as youāre doing and observe. If it is clumping ADD MORE , stirr it up and observe. Once salt is spread out chillin all full of water and not fighting over it in a clump you should be good to go.
-
Either add a thin bed of fresh salt on top of your bento bed or run the solution through a separate bed of dry fresh salt before hitting bento to be safe. Heptsne loves to donate reds and other nasties to clays but water is a hoarder and doesnāt let it.
-
When done wash all your salt with fresh tane to collect any disty residual and then filter and collect salt for redrying/reuse.
The moisture coming through is potentially pulling residual alkaline goods from you LLEs (tiny amounts), all kinds of goodies from your clay (someone posted recently about the nasties that water will pull from certain bentos) and bring all that red to the party below.
Will these steps eliminate what is causing the red from your crude? Maybe, that depends on a few other variables of your reaction/solution. Will it eliminate the red itself for the time being? It should. Along with and/or at minimum eliminate the above issues that should let you have a much cleaner run (and cleaner looking).
You shouldnāt have any problems with reds now in the absence of moisture and its soluble. Though sometimes youāll have a stubborn batch and the flask reflux tek for 30-45 mins before letting vape come over should knock it out.
If you are happy with other outcomes of your rxn try this easy one first and let me know how it goes/send pics.
That Waterworld giph has set unused in my arsenal for 6 months, hopefully you didnāt find it too dry.
7 Likes
With all that slapstick, how does one find time to work on the kemestrees?
Thanks for that by the way
2 Likes
Bro Iām a janitorā¦
1 Like
Wow okay so I havenāt been using enough salts is what it sounds like, also havenāt been drying the salts, didnāt know I needed to. Thx bud Iāll update once I try this
2 Likes
No worries slow day today a bit bored if you canāt tell. And yes most desicants will find a way to hydrate and pull moisture from the air non stop.
If that doesnāt work for some reason youāll have to get someone like @Kingofthekush420 to finish up an educated response.
2 Likes
The more I thought about this the more I think moisture is the issue with those that canāt pull the reds over.
Not necessarily my above point of drying before going through the clays but I do think related as the water either binds and/or hinders the reds ability to come over in the heads. @Kingofthekush420 thoughts?
@BrownGuy420
Do a run with material treated with the above drying and only filter through another salt bed and see if the reds come over with the dry crude sample.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMteuv-hiF_/?igshid=1ge97tv2n97b
I dont get a red fraction
I also donāt dry my extract after conversion
@globtek33 can literally skip water washing and distill the red out of converted d8, not sure why he gets a red fraction and I donāt
So if my theory of the reds and h20 relationship would hold true to those statements right?
Possibilities
-
The reds distill over easily when no moisture is present and stay red in color.
-
The reds break down, get lighter, distill at different perameters, or donāt come over at all when various amounts of moisture is present in flask.
-
This is way off and I should stick to sweeping the halls.
5 Likes
I am seeing that when the oil is heated to about 170c and left for about an hour the oil will clear up and then when ran through the wiper itās gold. I am now only pulling like 100-200 grams of red vs 1kg of red per 10kg ran.
This first Pic is the initial heating up
This second Pic is after an hour of sitting at 170c
Also Iām thinking lower conversion Temps might yield a better color, yet lower purity levels possibly. Currently hitting right around 95% D8 on my runs
2 Likes
No because I donāt dry my d8 crude before distillation and I never get a red fraction
The red fraction Iāve found only happens when there acid present, look up the BP of ptsa it can be separated through distillation
1 Like
This is the same thing globs sees
He can have purple disty that when heated goes water clear then turns back purple when cooled
1 Like
I let my oil heat up to 170c for an hour and didnāt distill anything and then just emptied the BF into a pot to cool down and then put in the rollers hopper and itās distilling gold. So my mind is saying Iām getting something to boil out be that its the acid or H2O. I doubt itās the acid because the bicarb washes are through and Iām sure there is still trace amounts of H2O present.
1 Like
Did you confirm this? I did a few experiments and all still hold true to my theoryā¦
1 Like
I have diluted my last run down to about 6:1 heptane to oil. I will be pulling it through Mgso4 and Na2SO4 to dry my residual H2O. After this I plan to run through a slurry of T5 and carbon sitting on a bed of silica. If all goes well I should come out with a very desirable color. 
1 Like
Iād water wash after the column just to double check pH, you can never be too careful about it.
I saw your disty on the spd is pink now, did you change anything in your process?
I know you had water clear on spd down to a science
Ya running through the column screwed the ph upā¦ I plan to dry, run through column then LLE again. I can pull water no issues on Spd just the roller takes more effort it seems it only wants to push red and pink. I was told in roller I need to use filtration which makes sense due to spd I can pull fractions but roller is more or less A/B. I am pretty sure if I filter then LLE Iāll get what Iām looking for
2 Likes