CBleach Scrub


The magsil-pr is very expensive and is only really cost effective to use for Pesticide Remediation


Awesome thanks, does columbo labs have a storefront you can pick up from?


I don’t believe so. Are you located in California?


Yes, Los Angeles


Overall I had fairly poor results on my first attempt at wet bleaching with Cbleach. I took a 20g sample of some winterized oil and redissolved it 10:1 in ethanol following the instructions as found on ColumboLabs’ website. No noticeable change in color or clarity whatsoever…

I should note that this batch of oil was extracted from flower harvested probably a year or so ago. The resin had a very oxidized-reddish tint to it upon extraction.

Those of you who are successfully using cbleach; do you find that your oil has a significant decrease in pigmentation and increase in clarity immediately after the scrub? Prior to distillation?

Perhaps good results are less likely to occur with older heavily-oxidized material? There is definitely more experimenting that needs to be done on my end.


We are working on a new SOP for CBleach as well as a slightly different formulation (CBleach Lite) which will be more effective for alcohol based scrubbing. Our most recent expirience with the current CBleach formula is that having your material dissolved in a polar solvent such as an alcohol will actually wash out the compounds you are attempting to trap and remove from your oil. We attempted to use an alkane but Pentane and Hexane both have significantly lower boiling points than the effective activation temperature of CBleach. Heptane was the obvious choice and it works fantastically! I would recommend you try the following: after you conclude your saline/Heptane rinses, bring the solution to 80°C and add your 5% CBleach then stir for 20-30 mins allowing full interaction between the clay/carbon and the 1:1 (Heptane:distillate) suspension. You may then filter through your choice of silica or MagSil-PR (if maximum de-pigmentation and pesticide residue removal is desired). :sunglasses::+1:


@columbolabs Can you elaborate on the “saline/hemptane rinses”


Thanks for the feedback! I actually haven’t been doing any post processing on my material other than winterization via ethanol. I found your D-gum saline/heptane rinse SOP on your website. My apologies for the ignorance, but I was under the impression that the brine wash was used for pesticide removal. Can anyone elaborate specifically on what water soluble constituents are removed from cannabis resin with this processing?


“degumming” breaks phosphatides (which make up the cell walls in the resin glands among other things) into water soluble constituent parts


I give a step by step SOP in the “Pesticide Journal Entry” post


Your the man!


Yes - the first pass Distillate is dissolved 1:1 in Heptane after undergoing the steps described in the dGum Instructions (mixing with water + incubation). Since Heptane is a non-polar solvent it will not mix with water (picture cooking oil sitting on top of water in a glass). You then pour this solution into a separatory funnel and introduce warm salt water, shake, then allow the contents to settle (1-3 minutes). There will be a clear separation between the water and the Heptane layer with a slimey emulsion layer in the middle. Drain the water layer, and the emulsion layer until you’ve come to the Heptane/distillate. Repeat 5-10 more times until emulsion layer is either indistinguishable/non-existent. Allow to sit for approx 1 hour after final salt-water drain - drain any residial water and then proceed to the CBleach step. :+1:


Many of the pesticides we are removing are partially water-soluble and like to hide in the gums and fats. If your just winterizing, understand there are just as many gums in your final product as there was fats you filtered out. Also means much higher possibility of unwanted pesticide residue. :point_up:


Do you have any cannabinoid potency results before and after the degumming procedure?


I don’t think anybody is going to be able to tell you how to do it. @Photon_noir @BreakingDabs and myself have outlined several possible methods for eliminating various variables that may be influencing the color change, but we are in uncharted waters here and there’s always the real possibility of unknowns.


Ive found the surface will always oxidize unless heads fraction (what you aim to remove through enzyme and water washes) is removed completely. The only way to do this completely has been the bump trap or capturing a very large heads fraction amd collecting a minor main body. We need people to test the bump trap as i outlined on my IG. I need people with very skilled hands at vac depths amd fully purged systems to check the viability of the bump trap used on second pass. And removing main body through a seperate head without opening the system at hot temps or allowing the system to cool. The question then is not whether the material will change color, it is if the potency remains high. I have 4 month old material sitting on my shelf that hasnt ages a day in color… potency is mostly D8… im currently working on other projects or i would test this further. Heads fraction homoginizes into main body which is why you see the top change color… the surface exposes the nasties to the air and moisture, giving rise to oxidization or acidified qualities due to the water in the air settling and activating the acids left in the material… i dont fully know the mechanics there.


I have made several batches of high D9 water clear via degumming and a magsil column that did not turn pink/purple and did not oxidize over long periods of time (6 months in some cases). One batch turned yellow after 3 months. And a whole bunch of it turns pink immediately. I’ve tried to intentionally make pink, no luck. I’ve tried to intentionally make water clear, it turned pink. All variables basically the same except they were done in labs all over the country with completely different starting material.


In what way are you disagreeing and examples of what :man_shrugging:


Sweet so you fully removed the heads fraction. There are ways. Its just not as consistent as the bump trap… but the bump trap isnt as consistent with potency.


So you are suggesting some times I fully removed the heads, sometimes I did not? I suppose it’s possible, but the procedure was the same each time.