Carbon turning my etoh crude extract red

Cyro wash dry ice directly into wash. 20 mins wash, course filter then to cake t-5 carbon. Roto to about a 5:1 then decarb hot plate.

Also the beakers I’ve been using have been way to big so I don’t know if maybe that is playing a role to oxidation(the redness).

I’m implementing a carbon scrub too possibly even lighter color more soon but scared that the carbon is causing the issue.
This is dilueted with Flora terps then place into carts

Doing a batch this weekend, just wanted to hear thoughts.

likely a pH issue. try balancing pH with liquid-liquid extraction, prior to distillation. could be the carbon, but could also be the addition of dry ice to the tincture.


The T5/AC puck is doing the job, it just needs the time to work a bit more. I prefer a triple pass over that style puck. First pass removes most of the green (leaving reds behind). Second pass reds usually go away for me, leaving an amber tincture. Third pass takes it to nearly water clear. The red you are seeing is not oxidization; it is leftover pigments or tannins from the plant. AC should help.

Maybe read up on the lostbiologist’s SOP. I scaled his a bit and have had nothing but stellar results.

Are you making distillate or just mixing your crude with terps? Distillation can have issues when filtration media is left behind. That usually translates to isomerization, though, and not necessarily color change. The dry ice is also likely making your tincture rather acidic. Ethanol loves to pull carbonic acid from dry ice.


Crude with terps. I do very low diluet maybe 3-5% max with great results. The lost biologoist what I used to reform my process. I’ll try passing over the cake multiple times, but is there a way to possibly fix the pH issue with the dry ice? Any type of coolong system is out of my budget. Maybe nitrogen?

Easiest way to fix it is to not add dry ice directly to your mix. Use a cryo bath. I put 15ish gallons of isopropyl with an obscene amount of dry ice in a 55 gallon drum. I then add my keg os solvent to the bath (which was prechilled to -40C). That how I have made it get cold enough without having to go all in on a -80 freezer or chiller.

Not sure on the specific method for carbonic acid removal or best practices for ph adjustment of crude. I know that offgassing helps, but maybe @Roguelab can help with a more refined response.

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Safest way to neutralize in my experience is a brine or plain water wash (check ph of water thou😁)
Used well water once ph was 5.2 :cry:
Aa few day s ago @richpel recommended a compound used in organic chemistry that sounded good haven t tried that yet
Mgo is also used by several
@Photon_noir states that the salts created have high boiling points and should not stand in your way
@Photon_noir is also very weary of adjusting ph


Adjusting pH is risky business, especially when using strongish bases. If you can get a number for the pH, you should definitely do the molar calculations. Doing this will allow you to use the base in a dilute solution, allowing for uniform dispersion, obtaining the desired pH and limiting side reactions.

There can be a bit of buffer chem involved, if you want to be accurate.


From my experience, it’s not that the carbon is turning anything red, but pulling most of the other pigments out except for the red. LLE with a Ph swing prior to my first pass took care of most of my red/amber problems.


I cannot find any threads really explaining the process of LLE, shit seems confusing… time to stay up and read my dick off.
Im ordering a seperatory funnel today, should have it within the next week.

I do up to 5lbs a wash, is a 1000ml funnel going to be enough?


5 pounds of biomass? Should be, but I’d order a 2,000ml funnel just in case you want to get fancy with ratios of solvent and such.

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@Akoyeh is exactly right. Also try different puck like DE or Celite


Dry ice can also cause an acidic swing in your PH balance if if your putting dry ice directly into your tincture to cool it


If my three passes with the cake doesn’t work ill work on the LLE wash.

From what I’ve read so far I think I have an idea now of what to do. This is what Ive come up with:

Saturating my crude with hexane to a 5:1 , using neutral PH water in the funnel then adding the hexane/crude. Agitating then let settle, allowing for the 2 to separate. Drain water, Drain hexane and then use a drying agent until a nice swirl forms. Course filtering the drying agent and then hot plate the hexane?

Also am i able to use ethanol for this?

and if this isnt anything close to what LLE just say “your a dumbass, research more”.

Update: passed 3 times through same cake noticably lighter yellow and more clear. Still finishing the rest but so far I’m digging the result. Going to decarb slow and low. Will post pictures of finished result by Sunday/Monday. It seems like your right about the carbon needing more time to work. Now the question is what’s faster 3 passes or a carbon scrub though?

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about a 4:1 ratio of solvent to crude. Still alot of Amber and will obviously get worst. Decarbing tomorrow will post crude results. As long as I don’t get red red I’m okay with it. Used alot less dry ice on this batch and quicker wash. 3 passes through cake. (Shit took long time hope it was worth it).


Alittle bit of light to make me feel better.

Will have them in cartridges soon. Kind of hard to tell if I “redded” out.

Trying to figure out why my decarb took so long and also why my magnetic stirrer wouldnt stop forming small bubbles around it ? Everything else flat as a boatless lake. Anyone know what’s going on here?

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looks similar to my distillate. I believe I am either having moisture issues with my CUP30/DC40 extraction or sugars are not being filtered out and releasing moisture during decarb/distillation. Not too sure on this, just a theory. have you seen any moisture on decarb condensing coils or following your thc through distillation?

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have you posted an image of your oil without any powder filtrations or scrubs?