Oh shit I just saw you guys are talking about the little blue ball valve from bvv. Those leak for sure if you press it with a screwdriver you can hear the hiss. I was talking about the valve on the solvent tank. Those go bad too
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Oh no now u got me all noid about all my valves 
Aren’t the nai locks super high end? I think I paid out the ass for those?
What is the industry standard/ ol reliable??
I’ve learned a lot on this website, like a lot a lot, but I think I’m learning right now to just pay up for the good shit. All this cheap “should do” shit always bites me in the ass. Bvv specifically.
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Pressure test the thing with n2 and spray it down with soapy water. The leak will show.
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I’ve debated doing this as well. Was even thinking about the good ol bathtub method
I’ll definitely have an answer tomorrow. Cuz I think the bathtub method is the best option for narrowing this down
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Whatever’s easiest for yah.
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Swagelok
I’d recommend superlok for a cheaper alternative
I agree that you should replace that blue valve on the manifold regardless. You might try tightening the packing nut on that purple handle bvv valve as well. I’ve used some of the purple handle valves in the past and there’s been several times where I wouldn’t reach a full vac until I tightened the packing nut.
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I’ll definitely be looking into the superlock. I was under the impression nai lock IS swagelock, but I’ll definitely be looking into getting the best valves for my entire system. I’ve taken valves for granted all these years. No longer.
If you’re upgrading valves on the entire system, you should consider making the switch to compression fittings.
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I’m not too sure what that is, even after a few quick searches. I’ll definitely look into it tho when I get home. From what I seen they just look like NPT (which I’m sure is incorrect). I also did not see any valves within those searches. I also thought about quick connects in certain places… What are your thoughts on those?
These are the superloks I mentioned, you can grab them cheaper from Corlee valve and fitting.
Compression is a better alternative to NPT. Here’s a video from OSS that will give you a better idea.
Quick connects are great for a nitrogen push or vacuum but not so much for liquid
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@FicklePickle for the win!
Tracking down vac leaks is way easier if you can find them using positive pressure instead (sometimes that isn’t possible. That’s when you resort to spraying solvent or wasting helium)…
And @WhereAreTheStones is on point suggesting that if you’re considering system wide revalving you should at least price out compression fittings all round.
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I heard ham-let is good too
not sure where you heard THAT.
https://future4200.com/search?q=hamlet+leak
I certainly wouldn’t run them again.
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Heard it from HFS’s Facebook 
Yeah we had brand new Hamlets from HFS on brand new machine leak that had to be tightened last week on an in house consult I did. I have em on my rig also
@Killa12345 cheap valves seems to be just as good as any Hamlet valve imo
And yeah like said above always positive pressure test…
If ur not gonna use nitrogen I wouldn’t leak test w it. I’d use compressed air… nitrogen will makes leaks over 100psi…so if u do pressure test w it do it at 100
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The bathtub reveals all of our sins.
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See @Soxhlet had this to say on Hamlets, wonder if he still holds that opinion.
Hamlet is a good valve brand, all valves need the packing’s tightened including swagelok brand valves. Cold temps shrink materials and cause leaks there is no exception to this.
I’ve had zero leaks with my hamlets, but I use them for vapor. I have also experienced the need for retightening the valve packing with pretty much all valves I’ve used that see cold service
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We still run them for our needle valves, packings need to be adjusted if they leak.
Thank you!! Also you guys were mostly correct, it was the shitty purple bvv valve, but not the blue one and I just tightened the nut in the middle between the two purple pieces and it stopped leaking. Still don’t trust it tho, so I do plan on upgrading