Hey guys hope this is posted in the right spot. New to the forum but future4200 is my buddy and I always heard this was the place and now I see that it is.
So I’m about to try my hand at a brine wash and then using T5 to bleach my oil to water clear and turn my D9 to D8.
First question I have is on a brine soulution, I know that I need to heat water and break down salt for a good salt water solution… Is there a science to this? Like until no mpre salt breaks down in the water? What kind of water is best? Distilled? DI? Just purified?
Take my decarbed and winterized crude and run the crude through a first pass on short path then break down distillate with heptane and add T5? How much T5? 10%?
Once in sep filter I introduce my heptane/T5/Oil mixture and mix up and wait for seperation?
Once seperated I drain off salt water and lipid layer and then send heptane/T5/Oil mix to rotovap to reclaim heptane and then put heptane/T5 mix in boiling flask and run through short path? And now I’m left with D8?
If I filter T5 off first and then reclaim heptane and then run through short path will this leave me with D9 but water clear?
Sorry so many question but I’m on a quest right now… Thx to all that answer!
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Water clear is doubtful on a first pass (though not impossible). If you want d9, do your brine wash then heat and stir your heptane oil mix at 80c for about an hour, then drain the solution, filter out the t5, then evap and distill.
If you want d8 clear, then don’t bother with the stirring beforehand and just throw the t5 in the flask and call it a day.
Not on first pass I was told to do a first pass then to use T5 and run on second pass. So if D9 is desired I heat the heptane/oil/T5 mix in a beaker on hot plate then filter out T5 and rotovap the heptane off then distill? Wouldn’t heating at 80c cause evaporation of heptane?
Heptane boils at 98c. It’ll certainly start to evaporate. Maybe just put it in your boiling flask with a condenser running and have it open to the air. (It’ll condense any vapors so you won’t lose any).
What about a brine solution, whats the best way to make? Also can T5 be ised on CBD to lighten color, then filtered and ran through short path the lighten and not convert to D8?
Pfff you sure you wan t to add T5 to a sep funnel
It s gona clog
It s gona grab all the water in there
It will have to dry out in the boiling flask giving you bump s like hell
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So what would you suggest?
Brine washing is preformed to extract water solubles from your oil
Water with 3% salt by weight already works but you can use saturated water with salt this is water that salt will not dissolve in any more (Brine )
Plain water also works and is often done as a last wash to neutrelize ph
T5 is a bentonite clay adding water to it will make it absorb a lot wich in our. Line off work has little purpose
Of the shelf it already has a Few % of water wich some say is neccesary and usefull and some say its not
Thus. Drying there clay in an oven at no more than 120C
Clays can be used in diffrent ways with the same purpose
The wet scrub in wich a solvent is involved room temp - solvent bp
The dry scrub in wich no solvent is involved mostly 60C-90C
Contact time make sence with Clays for they get time to do there thing
As for solvents. Alkanes work best
As for making D8 with T5
I can t say much for i haven t tried i use A-C and am very content
Refluxing your first pass with the powder of choice for a few hours below 200Cmost of the times will increase yield of D8
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So no T5 when doing a brine wash, only heptane and oil? Then once seperation has occurred drain salt water and recover heptane and oil and then add T5 with oil in boiling flask?
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Yes water/salt. Oil/heptane in sep
I would really recomend @Beaker and @tweedledew their Posts on the subject
You could evaporate your heptane in the boiling flask Yes but don t overfill stick to the 60% fill capacity
So you will probably need to refill along the way
What ratio from oil to T5 should I use?
Hmm Since i haven t used T5
In the boiling flask i would say 5-10% no more
By weight
Thank you for all your input!
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If u have 1 liter of crude to clean up, ur gonna want 3 liters of heptane and about 60L of distilled water.
Seperate ur distilled water into 4 parts.
Raise the temp of all ur water to 30c.
Mix 15% salt into 3 of the 4, leave one plain.
Lower ur ph on one portion to 3-4.
Raise the ph on one portion to 9-10.
Now u have 15L of each portion. Do 3 rinses with each portion (5L per rinse, about 1:1 with water being alittle more), waiting 10 minutes before dispensing the spent water portion.
U can do the saline solutions in any order but i like 4->9->7.
Then finish off with 3 rinses of plain unsalted ph7 distilled water. (Most important step)
Then u want to scrub with 250g of t5 clay(25% of ur crude weight) mixed into ur oil:heptane solution. Flush nitrogen into the system before scrubbing. Keep at 80c for 1 hour.
Prepare a SS column with a 1 micron sintered disk on bottom. Use 5kg of b80 to 1kg of crude. Saturate the b80 with heptane before packing, usually about 2-3L of heptane to 5kg of b80. Filter ur scrubbed oil thru the column and rinse with 3L (however much u used to saturate plus 20%).
Final step is pushing through a column full of mol sieve to catch any water that could have gotten trapped.
Run that as first pass, then if u want d8, put 10% t5, and 10% 4a molsieve. (If u wanna get real fancy put 5% nickle (ii) chloride in there too… shhh 
)
All clays or chemicals should be theoughuly dehydrated before using.
Water and oxygen are u enemy here, reduce those and ur color score goes way up.
You may need wayyyy more distilled water than stated. Ive once washed 12 times for each ph and was still getting stuff leaching into the water portion.
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Brine/saline washes is some work 
does one after draining water layer just pour in the next solution in the sep funnel and mix it in the sep funnel? 'n keep repeating?
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Ya this way seems like a lot of work… I was told by another to just do a Brine wash and mix the brine with heptane/oil mix… Wait for seperation, then drain off brine layer and then put heptane/oil in rotovap with T5 to mix togeter and to pull off heptane. Lastly put oil/T5 mixture in shortpath and run… But I’m new to this. Multiple washes sound like a lot of work but makes sense if your trying to pull all colors/pigments out.
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What’s your reasoning for using a non-brined wash last? I was under the impression that the brine helped to properly dry the heptane layer. Otherwise you’re still getting some water mixed in with your heptane
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More work, more payoff. It depends on your end product. I think if you’re using clay in the flask to d8 you’re probably fine without multiple washes. If you’re going for d9 you might want to go through the whole rigamarole
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That’s exactly what I was thinking. More work the better the polish and clarity but T5 in the flask I’m sure it will bleach just fine but will convert to D8. Multiple washes to achieve this and keep as D9
I dont want salt in my extract, and it goes through a molsieve column before hitting the roto/spd. U atleast want to finish off with ph7 water wether it has salt in it or not. I was under the impression that salt pulls more fats and waxes and not all fats and waxes pull out at the same ph. But if u really wanted to only do one, id do ph 9-10, it pulls out the most red pigment
Theres no point to do one wash if u not gonna do the whole range, maybe u dont have to do as many but doing so makes for some incredible extract.
Ive been doing distilling for over a year and have only made absolutely water clear in bulk distillate once and that was by following all these steps with the 12 washes… ive done alot less processing for each batch since and havent gotten water clear in bulk, yeah there are all very clear in 1g amounts but that one time was incredible and that was only possible because of the brine washes, because i didnt use chromatography back then.
The reason i dont do all the steps because for me water clear sells for the same price as pale yellow. So why bother with the extra steps 
but it was awesome knowing i can do it
Also to note, the reason to try and get a very pure d9 first pass is to minimize the side reactions when doing the d8 second pass. If theres extra junk in ur first pass its gonna have side reactions and turn the d9 into other things that maybe hplc doesnt show
I set aside a couple 10g vials of this stuff, its been about 9 months and the vials are still water clear with no pigment change. I have a cart i made with the oil and 8% terps, it is also still water clear.
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