Best crc media for targeting chlorophyll?

Gonna try a cold run and compare to post cleaned product but dry ice Is a hour and 45 kin round trip so I try to avoid it when possible. Why heptane and not just redisolve in more butane?

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Why are you running warm? It’s pretty easy to set up an injection coil or two in an ice water bath or a dry ice bath.

I used ice with a injection coil but still would call the relatively warm

Ice, not dry ice

You can use a second coil to maintain the temperature from the first coil, if you get what I mean. Or use dry ice in isopropyl or acetone.

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Not quite sure what u mean by two coils but I’ll definitely try my coil with dry ice and see if that pulls less chlorophyll

So for example, I’ll have 2 separate buckets and 2 separate injection coils that are connected to each other. So it goes solvent tank > first coil (1st stage of cooling) > second coil (2nd stage of cooling) > extraction column.

The idea is the the first coil initially chills your solvent and the second coil will keep that solvent at the temp you just got it to.

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But the real question that you have to ask yourself here is is that hour and 45 minute drive each way not worth the amount of time that you’re spending on cleanup? I mean honestly time is money, and if you just extract properly you’ll save a lot of your time and have a better product

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What I really need is to just put a prv on my crc so I can use nitro in my system, that way I can just put dry ice in my material column and push the solvent out with nitro. Set up I have I push with nitro but only into my solvent tank , and I use my sleeved material column for warming it up with hot water at the end of a push to get the rest of the gas out of the material. Didn’t want to chill my material with dry ice because It’s racked and I wouldn’t be able to get the ice out, so would end up having to wait for it to melt and end up getting one run out of 1 pound material column with 20 bucks of dry ice, 20 bucks of gas, and a 140 minute car ride

Lol 140 minutes is almost not a typo , Just a little over

Hey there, @44northorganicfarms ! They are different because acid activation of the bentonite/montmorillonite clay changes the ratio of silica and alumina and increases the silica surface area by removing some of the alumina and metal cations from the natural calcium bentonite… while B-80 is just natural calcium bentonite clay, just washed and dried a bit with NO acid activation.

For room temperature butane extract CRC to remediate chlorophyll, I recommend a few things…

  1. You need to make sure your biomass AND your butane are VERY DRY… and your biomass should be BROKEN apart with a whip shredder, NOT CUT apart with sharp blades. This will extract less chlorophyll in the first place. I have written instructions for these drying and shredding methods several places, along with details on the cold butane advice.

  2. Use a superficially moist and “expanded” clay. This means you don’t necessarily need to pre-bake to dry the clay (although drying improves butane flow throughput), and that it should be “acid activated”. I strongly recommend Carbon Chemistry’s T-41 for the top layer of your CRC.

  3. You should definitely have at least a little activated charcoal (aka: “carbon” or “AC”) in the mix. That’s why I say to use CC’s T-41. It is pre-mixed acid activated clay and AC. Otherwise, AC should be the next layer, below the acid activated bentonite.

  4. The next layer below T-41 or AC should be Carbon Chemistry’s T-5, which is thermally activated (i.e. partially calcined) pH neutral calcium bentonite clay. This T-5 layer helps collect any free acid, as well as metals or other compounds that may leach through the T-41 or AC layer. The T-5 is also a depth filtration aid to retain the smallest solid particles and “polish filter” your BHO solution.

  5. The T-5 can be mixed with Carbon Chemistry’s Silica 60A and/or a little of their alkaline MagSil-PR, Alumicel B, or the T-5 can be TOPPED (between T-41/AC & T-5 layers) with a layer of granular Activated Alumina (AA). These finely pelletized powders can improve FLOW through the T-5 clay, if you find it is too slow and/or solvent retentive. Additionally, the alkalinity of CC’s MagSil-PR, Alumicel B, or their granular AA topping can neutralize any free acid leaching from the T-41, Lustermax or other acid activated clay layers.

  6. Remember to use some fibrous depth filtration in-line below the sintered disc or supported screen holding the powders in the CRC. This is important because you cannot easily clean or switch the collection vessel beyond the CRC in a CLS… and numerous fine dust particles will ALWAYS (at least initially) escape the frit/sinter/paper membrane underneath the powder cake.

Best of luck to you! :wink:

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We have all that Carbon Chemistry media mentioned in stock, from bags up to barrels.

EcoGreen Industries: Carbon Chemistry Media

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Not being mean at all but you’re fucking logic is completely flawed.

Thank you so much for that man that was an amazing right up!!! I appreciate u taking the time to do that, and I’m sure many more people to come will as well.

Going to follow that to a tee and I’ll post the results.

You also made me realize that I used to run silica on top of alumina on top of t41 or b80 with much better results but I used better material as well so wrongly assumed that was the cause after reading comments on this site that said b80 alone is all you need. 

I still have a bunch of different old powders and media from when I was trying things out and running layers so I should have everything I need to try out ur sop in the next couple days if I get the time. 

Thanks again!

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Sure thing, @44northorganicfarms !

By the way, you should NEVER chill DRIED biomass… ONLY the SOLVENT, if you want to run cold.

  • However, with fresh frozen biomass, you DO need to keep it cold, including inside the CLS column.

  • Regardless, you should avoid exposing cold biomass to normal atmosphere insofar as it is possible. Humidity condensing on the cold biomass surfaces (dried or fresh) is ALWAYS problematic for ANY solvent-based extraction, for SEVERAL reasons!

  • The most tried and true butane temperature range for dry OR fresh-frozen biomass is about -20 to -60°C.
    This also happens to be the temperature range for ALCOHOL solvents; for Winterization OR extraction!

P-tips…
Dry biomass columns can be insulated with removable wrap to achieve cold extraction and still allow for nominal warming during solvent recovery… warming TOO much during recovery can cause over-extraction of the biomass into your product, unless you CLOSE off the column DRAIN and recover vapor ONLY from the TOP of the column… although this can cause very dirty socks, column walls, and column drain filters, so be sure to CLEAN them all WELL before another run!

Always DRY clean^ butane vapor by running it through 3-4Å mol-sieve beads, during butane vapor recovery.
^Coalesce all resin mist prior to mol-sieve: Run vapor from collection pot into a (preferably curved) expansion column filled with clean stainless scrubbies or similar, then narrow the vapor path before it enters the mol-sieve drier chamber. See my Instagram @photon_noir for a combination trap/drier design.

Use a room temperature, non-odorized, gas delivery propane cylinder to pressurize your system INSTEAD of N2 gas. This may be difficult to obtain, but it’s WORTH IT. Using the compressible propane makes recovery FAR easier, faster and SAFER… as well, it improves your extraction quality!

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Love the tips ! Never thought to push vapor out of the top of my material when warming my material column.
Propane instead of nitrogen sounds like a really cool idea as well, never heard anyone doing this!

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Way easier and better from my experience to do vapor pushes vs nitrogen. I also run continuously so it would be a pain but even before, butane in hot water pushed better than 6 cmepol’s

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Fuck dude… I mean that with all the respect I can muster.

Run cold! You’re maximizing your chlorophyll pick up, and giving your clay more work. Pick up some silica too, it’ll cut right through that color.

If you wanna be snazzy, pick up a 100ft coil and use that to chill your warm solvent as you inject. Snag some extra valves, and use it to condense your solvent during recovery as well.

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I run zero butane, i dont chill my injection and can easily get from water to white from b80. No nitrogen, nothing fancy just the basics, i also grind all material so if i can do it so can you

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Get PRVs first before using propane to push

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