Lol 140 minutes is almost not a typo , Just a little over
Hey there, @44northorganicfarms ! They are different because acid activation of the bentonite/montmorillonite clay changes the ratio of silica and alumina and increases the silica surface area by removing some of the alumina and metal cations from the natural calcium bentonite… while B-80 is just natural calcium bentonite clay, just washed and dried a bit with NO acid activation.
For room temperature butane extract CRC to remediate chlorophyll, I recommend a few things…
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You need to make sure your biomass AND your butane are VERY DRY… and your biomass should be BROKEN apart with a whip shredder, NOT CUT apart with sharp blades. This will extract less chlorophyll in the first place. I have written instructions for these drying and shredding methods several places, along with details on the cold butane advice.
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Use a superficially moist and “expanded” clay. This means you don’t necessarily need to pre-bake to dry the clay (although drying improves butane flow throughput), and that it should be “acid activated”. I strongly recommend Carbon Chemistry’s T-41 for the top layer of your CRC.
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You should definitely have at least a little activated charcoal (aka: “carbon” or “AC”) in the mix. That’s why I say to use CC’s T-41. It is pre-mixed acid activated clay and AC. Otherwise, AC should be the next layer, below the acid activated bentonite.
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The next layer below T-41 or AC should be Carbon Chemistry’s T-5, which is thermally activated (i.e. partially calcined) pH neutral calcium bentonite clay. This T-5 layer helps collect any free acid, as well as metals or other compounds that may leach through the T-41 or AC layer. The T-5 is also a depth filtration aid to retain the smallest solid particles and “polish filter” your BHO solution.
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The T-5 can be mixed with Carbon Chemistry’s Silica 60A and/or a little of their alkaline MagSil-PR, Alumicel B, or the T-5 can be TOPPED (between T-41/AC & T-5 layers) with a layer of granular Activated Alumina (AA). These finely pelletized powders can improve FLOW through the T-5 clay, if you find it is too slow and/or solvent retentive. Additionally, the alkalinity of CC’s MagSil-PR, Alumicel B, or their granular AA topping can neutralize any free acid leaching from the T-41, Lustermax or other acid activated clay layers.
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Remember to use some fibrous depth filtration in-line below the sintered disc or supported screen holding the powders in the CRC. This is important because you cannot easily clean or switch the collection vessel beyond the CRC in a CLS… and numerous fine dust particles will ALWAYS (at least initially) escape the frit/sinter/paper membrane underneath the powder cake.
Best of luck to you! 
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We have all that Carbon Chemistry media mentioned in stock, from bags up to barrels.
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Not being mean at all but you’re fucking logic is completely flawed.
Thank you so much for that man that was an amazing right up!!! I appreciate u taking the time to do that, and I’m sure many more people to come will as well.
Going to follow that to a tee and I’ll post the results.
You also made me realize that I used to run silica on top of alumina on top of t41 or b80 with much better results but I used better material as well so wrongly assumed that was the cause after reading comments on this site that said b80 alone is all you need.
I still have a bunch of different old powders and media from when I was trying things out and running layers so I should have everything I need to try out ur sop in the next couple days if I get the time.
Thanks again!
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Sure thing, @44northorganicfarms !
By the way, you should NEVER chill DRIED biomass… ONLY the SOLVENT, if you want to run cold.
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However, with fresh frozen biomass, you DO need to keep it cold, including inside the CLS column.
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Regardless, you should avoid exposing cold biomass to normal atmosphere insofar as it is possible. Humidity condensing on the cold biomass surfaces (dried or fresh) is ALWAYS problematic for ANY solvent-based extraction, for SEVERAL reasons!
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The most tried and true butane temperature range for dry OR fresh-frozen biomass is about -20 to -60°C.
This also happens to be the temperature range for ALCOHOL solvents; for Winterization OR extraction!
P-tips…
Dry biomass columns can be insulated with removable wrap to achieve cold extraction and still allow for nominal warming during solvent recovery… warming TOO much during recovery can cause over-extraction of the biomass into your product, unless you CLOSE off the column DRAIN and recover vapor ONLY from the TOP of the column… although this can cause very dirty socks, column walls, and column drain filters, so be sure to CLEAN them all WELL before another run!
Always DRY clean^ butane vapor by running it through 3-4Å mol-sieve beads, during butane vapor recovery.
^Coalesce all resin mist prior to mol-sieve: Run vapor from collection pot into a (preferably curved) expansion column filled with clean stainless scrubbies or similar, then narrow the vapor path before it enters the mol-sieve drier chamber. See my Instagram @photon_noir for a combination trap/drier design.
Use a room temperature, non-odorized, gas delivery propane cylinder to pressurize your system INSTEAD of N2 gas. This may be difficult to obtain, but it’s WORTH IT. Using the compressible propane makes recovery FAR easier, faster and SAFER… as well, it improves your extraction quality!
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Love the tips ! Never thought to push vapor out of the top of my material when warming my material column.
Propane instead of nitrogen sounds like a really cool idea as well, never heard anyone doing this!
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Way easier and better from my experience to do vapor pushes vs nitrogen. I also run continuously so it would be a pain but even before, butane in hot water pushed better than 6 cmepol’s
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Fuck dude… I mean that with all the respect I can muster.
Run cold! You’re maximizing your chlorophyll pick up, and giving your clay more work. Pick up some silica too, it’ll cut right through that color.
If you wanna be snazzy, pick up a 100ft coil and use that to chill your warm solvent as you inject. Snag some extra valves, and use it to condense your solvent during recovery as well.
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I run zero butane, i dont chill my injection and can easily get from water to white from b80. No nitrogen, nothing fancy just the basics, i also grind all material so if i can do it so can you
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Get PRVs first before using propane to push
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Doesn’t propane help color? obviously not as much as CRC, but i remember folks switching to propane 4-5 years ago for terps and color, if their systems could handle it.
Also, to be clear to OP, don’t use propane with windchime tek
I don’t have dosage information handy, but water clear is pretty easy with a little silica ontop of our b80. I’m sure enough clay would do the trick as well, but I pack the CRC, not chose the mix.
@Concentrated_humbold do you find that CRC removes lipids? That’s my issue here. At times, I find something that resembles lipids on top of my media cake, but I have to assume not all of it drops out, and is just clarified and bleached.
I also absolutely believe media works BETTER when warm. Ideally, I’d run a custom system that extracts cold and warms before the CRC, but I’m curious what you think of the lipid content of your extract. I know you’ve made more distillate than many members on this forum, so I really trust your appraisal here.
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Yeah propane definitely pulls better colors and terps, i run iso/propane. Butane is too slow and super cold injection is a pain with the psi differential’s for me to be able to drain columns. I don’t soak for more that 30 seconds just to avoid channeling and then just blast a few mins of melt ice cold solvent and done.
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Here is a copy of the molecular sieve trap I designed:
From my Instagram post:
This was the original design for the in-line [#molecularsieve] trap I had [nate] build. Some things have been moved around, sizes changed, added, etc, but this is the basic idea. As you can see, this design keeps the mol-sieve free of resin (if any is coming through from the collection vessel recovery distillation) by catching it all in the bottom bowl, which acts as a rapid expansion chamber to precipitate liquids and solids from the vapor. Clean vapors then rise through the trapped bed of mol-sieve and out to the recovery pump. There are a few small things you need to put in place to make it work perfectly…
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I use cotton or glass fiber between the screen and the exit port to catch the finest dust (so it doesn’t continue on to the vapor compressors).
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I’m also a fan of using an in-line moisture-indicating sight-glass on the vapor outlet. This lets me know when to change the mol-sieve.
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[The top legs] are for ease of loading. This unit must be filled with mol-sieve from the bottom while the dip tube remains in place. The bottom cup, however, can be removed easily to be cleaned out as needed without disturbing the mol-sieve.
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Btw, this design works perfectly as is with 3Å molecular sieve. You could also use 4Å, but I would usually avoid using 5A or 13X for gas phase butane.
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However, this design could ostensibly be used with alumina and 13X to dry medusa-tane after bubbling it through water.
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The inlet tube end should just be high enough to allow any terpy resin to fall out without interference or splashing back up onto the screen holding up the mol-sieve. A straight-through design will often get clogged with said terpy resin, since usually the only thing separating the inlet from the sieve is a fine screen, which clogs easily.
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Without this dip tube method, if you have an effective pre-filter stage before the mol-sieve, you should be fine. Just make sure you clean or change it often.
EDIT:
- Those filter plates are supported Dutch-weave screens or sintered discs at 10µm. The final design had the dip tube running down the center, so the 2 screens and supports could be symmetrically fixed around their central 1/2" holes.
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So! I’ve been “ignorantly” using 10a/13x for gas phase. (personal system, passive)
I personally haven’t noticed any issues during regeneration, and I’ve noticed a fairly healthy mass difference after desiccation under vacuum. What should I be looking for?
I am very much a fan of these diptube traps. They are forgiving and really seem to catch most of the entrained resin in the lower bowl.
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Shameless plug, but Corlee Valve is one of my favorite companies.
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We’d love to supply any of the fittings, valves, gauges, bore-thru fittings, etc to make this set up. Plus the dip tube.
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Hey! I’m the shameless plugger around these parts!
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