There’s are plenty of newer polyphosphate line cleaners out. Most of the ones I’ve seen that have nitrogen in them are high ph. I’ll be working on it tomorrow with pekacid, I hate Mondays, too many fires to put out for other people.
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So I have the same issues starting to appear on the bottom leaves on my white truffles, I was feeding 2.0 ec and dropped it to 1.8. My run off on these are 2.3-3.3ec 6.1ph.
I didn’t get this issue on my icc table and they were fed the same input.
Is it possible it’s the effects of overfeeding from 2 weeks ago just showing now?
These are day 39.
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What do you use in dirt
One thing I have noticed when I have ran into issues that show is for the next 2 to 3 weeks the visual effects can get worse
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100 i habe no clue its a recipe my friend keeps secret for business reasons ha and ive never soil tested it cause its amazing till I started using athena nutes. Its does amazing even with athena nutes but at the end the buds just done hold the weight anymore, before athena my buds would hold weight and stay rocks
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As far as the clone goes, I can hit the minerals and ph dead on using a combination of pekacid and mkp. The problem is that I am hitting the numbers with roughly 8% less mass than they are. So there is an unknown there, could be an additive to assist in prillling, could be any number of things.
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It looks like all of the necrotic tissue starts at the burnt tip, then expands from there. Is that correct?
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Yes that’s 100%right.
Would that be including all inputs that are currently available?
As in no shortages.
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Cal nitrate, chelated micro mix, mkp, pekacid and epsom. EDIT: I left out SOP, potassium sulphate. Pekacid isn’t normal stock at most ag supply places, but any icl dealer can get it. I have a jar test of it right now, I’m going to add cal carbonate to the jar tomorrow to make sure it’s enough pekacid to do the job. I’m also going to try a different iteration with citric instead of pekacid I’ll work on that tomorrow.
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I can get mkp and pekacid from plant products, would pure cal be a better option vs normal calcium nitrate? I have 100 lbs of it on hand.
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I would definitely like to see more Ca in that mix as well as Mg. In general I want to see Ca at 180ppm minimum.
Knowing your input and medium I would say with a decent degree of confidence that you’re seeing a Ca and K imbalance. Too much K or too little Ca being absorbed, depending on perspective. Given the fixed mix and your timing in flower, about all you can do to attempt to correct is drop humidity a bit in an effort to increase transpiration.
Based on experience, in my opinion the ratios Athena is manufactured in would make it best suited for a 0 cec environment like rockwool. In general as cec increases, we would like to see Ca increase in relation to macros.
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I’m really starting to like the idea of mixing my own raw salts, a few extra steps but I would have more flexibility when issues arise vs stuck to generic recipe.
Plus there should be a huge cost savings.
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What about coco coir that already requires more calcium with a CEC of 40-100 meq/100 g? Even more calcium?
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The ratio and timing are just as important as absolute value. Ca needs in relation to K are higher during veg and that slowly shifts the other direction during flower. Athena bloom is closer to where we would want to be at the end of bloom.
In rockwool you can get away with 2+K:1Ca ratio all the way through. Coir is interesting because it can be shittily rinsed, well rinsed unbuffered or buffered with any ratio of Ca, K or Mg. I like to start with a Ca:K ratio in the 1.6K:1Ca range and work from there. As bloom progresses, you can start dropping the Ca. Higher CEC (100+meq) I won’t touch without a soil analysis and typically we end up running more Ca than K. Same with guys that buy bulk coir, we need to analyze it and figure out where we are starting from, it’s not consistent like canna or tupur blend.
It’s is important to note that I arrive at certain ratios because I am a weirdo that blends the dark art of brix readings with the scientific method of tissue and sap analysis. I don’t care what the tissue analysis says, if it’s not 12+ brix, I’m unhappy.
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And I’m sure your gardens are PM free also. I like your methodology!
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Do you have any input on rio coco? I’m testing out the 1 gallon bags currently, I can’t find any info on the cec of the media.
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I have no experience with it. Course grind compressed straight coco?
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Yes that’s exactly what it is, holds way less water then my canna coco, I feel like I will need to irrigate similar to rockwool.
I had tested two plants in veg and it seemed to do well.
I’m going to try 1 plant per sq ft in 1 gallon bags.
I think they are sourced from Pelemix with coir from Sri Lanka. Botanicare also used them as a supplier. It is very clean and has low very sodium content.
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