Ive looked a few times on this site and others and I cannot seem to find a post that has a list of all the mods for the 20 gallon bubble magic washers. I am curious if anyone has a link to a post like this or a list of recommendations for what mods need to be done. I know taking the pump out is one major one but I did not know if there were others. Thanks in advance everyone!
“…We very rarely have problems with the XL machines, we have had a replacement rate of 2%, and most of those were due to shipping damage. Occasionally we have a report of a pump not working, and rarely a motor failure (usually after heavy use). 2% is a bit higher than we would like, but not terribly unusual considering the size of the item and the shipping distances. The shipping companies unfortunately are not known for their gentle treatment of the packages and some damage is inevitable (as is a certain percentage of machines that are defective right from the factory)…”
You might be fine. Use it gently and don’t overload it, maybe it’ll just work and you won’t have to waste time preemptively changing the pump / washing motor. I’m looking to switch to a 20 or 32 gallon setup, and I’ll need a machine someday as well.
My idea is using barrels instead of bags, with the screen material affixed to the bottom of the barrels as they stack together. I already agitate with a drill and paint mixer, which would work fine with the barrel idea. I want to be able to process 20 or more pounds at a time. Quality of the end product is less of a concern since it’s hemp.
Did you bypass your pump…So I got my 20gal washer for free from a friend however I have to replace all the hoses and I’m having a hell of a time finding the correct corregated hoses and I’m real close to just bypassing the pump and put a hose from the bottom of the drain and plug up the other one up top for the pump and call it a day!!! Ya i would love to get rid of those garbage ass hoses just robs u of your yield and a mold magnet and just a complete cluster fuck hassle to clean out ea use and having to use a air compressor to blow the drains out cuz water will sit in the hose ribs and mold and that’s theee last thing u want for meds…
Someone just needs to make a ss 10 or 15gal washer for home growers and I can throw this pos away as plastic is a joke…But for now until I design my own glycol chilled washer plastic it is…Just haven’t seen anyone do a straight hose drain on these like the 5gal…
I got clear 1 inch hose and a cap with hose clamps from the hardware store to plug the top inside the washer and the same 1 inch hose leading to a valve to plug into the bottom to bypass the pump. The only thing I am unsure about is if it needs to be wired differently or if the pump wires need to be cut
@Humboldt707 I would cut the entire pump out, wires and all. It will not affect the operation of the machine. I would also recommend looking into some hydraulic lift tables if your budget allows. They help a lot with loading the machines or trash cans and draining them.
Honestly I hate the 20 gallon washers, I know some people like them but after much tinkering I think the 8 gallons are better. You can spend less money buying a few 8 gallon washers and youll have more processing power than what you would have spent buying the 20 gallon (3 - 8 gallons vs 1- 20 gallon - 4 more gallons with the smaller washers). I am working on some 3d printed improvements for the 8 gallon washer that would allow for people to wash naked in the washer (no wash bags around material). While still being easy to clean up. Ive talked to a few people and it seems there’s quite a few who would want a smaller stainless washer, that is more affordable than the ICON’s and Osprey’s, however awesome those machines are, we need something cheaper!
Take the base off, it’ll expose the attachment point for the hose so it’ll be much easier to swap. I also insulated my 20g with that shiny insulation that’s almost like a beer coozy and the water stays colder much longer and a slight yield increase.
Also, a little off topic but also not… IF YOU HAVE 5.XX.X FIRMWARE ON YOUR HARVEST RIGHT DOWNGRADE IT TO EARLY 4.XX.X VERSIONS. Prior to v5 firmware you could essentially use your home version the same way as you could a pharma model with a simple firmware flash. I’m running 4.0.whatever now and can dry at 30f where the 5.xx firmware would only dry at 75f absolute lowest.
If ya need it, holla. Otherwise…i dunno. Oxidize the shit out of your hard work?
Cut the old hose out and get use to how the washer comes apart. Clean all the glue off from the hose washer outlet to make sure you don’t contaminate your hash. Make sure you use a clamp to secure all fittings, especially the opening from the washer to the new hose. Secure a ~4in long piece of 3/4 in ID hose over the outlet with a clamp, then insert a 3/4in elbow into the 4 in piece and secure with clamp. Cut a hole in the front of the washer with a drill and a coring bit. Then take a ~4ft piece of 3/4in ID hose and connect it to the elbow that is inside the washer, secure with clamp. Then take a 3/4in threaded PVC ball valve, and connect the valve to the tubing with a 3/4in insert x 3/4in thread, wrapping the threads with plumbers tape to ensure no leaks.
I recommended wiping down washing the washer really well with ethanol or iso the first time, then rinsing a bunch. Then I would do a wash with like .25 a gallon of iso or ethanol + 2.25gallons of water and let the washer run for 15 min. Then drain and rinse. Wipe it out with a solvent and low lint wipes, and do the iso+water mix I just mentioned after each use and youll maintain your washer for a while. These little washers get dogged on a lot but are really good to get started and even use for production if you maintain very high cleanliness of each machine and drain line. If trying to run more weight I would just mod more washers and keep them spotless.
Any thoughts on a 50 or 100 gallon bubble magic version? I have a buddy that has a machine shop and he is willing to build it for me. Not sure if it would work but should be able to, at least I’m hoping. Anyone have a schematic diagram? I will def add some ideas to make it better than the current 20 gallon. Thoughts anyone?
I think the schematics would be pretty simple to mock-up yourself. Pretty much the biggest issue you’ll run into is a timing circuit to control the motor action but even then it sounds like it’s a mechanical ‘countdown’ type clicky timer. I honestly think the idea is needed right now for fucking sure as I said in another thread current wash vessels go from ‘bubblemagic’ to ‘warner bros water tower’.
Source power - timing circuit - motor is the general flow there. You would probably need a variable resistor for motor power purposes which isn’t very hard. Not sure if an automatic power control circuit or just a potentiometer/rheostat would do better but if you search for electric motor control circuits I bet you could find some paydirt. I enjoy keeping things simple but with an digital motor control you could potentially fine tune the RPMs (think motor controls on your home HVAC system/grow controller). Shit, with that in mind you maybe could even use a frankensteined version of that circuit to simply control motor power and figure out a timing circuit in place. I feel like it’ll be a lot of trial and error to get the RPMs right but honestly there’s much much more complex machinery out there - I think you can nail it if you really set your mind to it
Seems as though there’s plenty of stuff out there that’ll help you slap your own basic build together! I honestly hope you follow through on it because I love seeing people build shit out of necessity rather than suckle off the chad teet. Good on you bro!
Badass ‘high load’ (this will be the operative phrase when finding a proper motor) motors
More than likely (for safety’s sake) you should probably make the ‘triggering’ circuit for the timer turning the motor on/off a relay. Granted these aren’t EXACTLY what you should use, that should be sorted by what input voltage/electricity type you use but you at least have a rough idea.