I appreciate the suggestion. I read through the tech and it looks like there is no comparison between the end product, which makes complete sense. So, thank you for pointing that out. However, that still leaves me with the issue of removing the lipids, waxes and chlorophyll. Would alumina be preferable to traditional winterization and the carbon scrub? If so, can you give me your opinion on the steps I was planning on taking to remove the lipids, wax and chlorophyll above?
From what I’ve learned on here.
-40c temps, dry ice aided
Ethanol
Filter thru buchner with 220 grit aluminum oxide still as cold as -40c as possible.
May have to filter 2-3x
Bring to room temp
Put etoh in warm water bath at 145*f (I hope I have the temp corrext), add powdered activated charcoal. Stir well. Leave to warm for 30 mins. Stir occasionally.
Let cool to room temp.
New buchner funnel with celite 545 and powdered activated charcoal on top. Please follow sop.
Filter 2-3x
Ethanol should be nice and light golden.
Please correct any errors I may have made. This is going by what I’ve read on here.
I have 8lbs of trim to run.
Theres a beach in SWFL called Siesta Key… 99.9% quartz sand. Silky smooth and fine like baby powder. Never gets hot even in the blistering August sun…
Thank you for the response. I’ve thoroughly reviewed the Bucket Tek (Cold Ethanol Extraction on a Budget) and plan to proceed when I have the necessary supplies and equipment. I was hoping to find a way to clean up some existing ethanol extraction. I realize that the machine I have used is not suited for making a high quality extraction.
As ethanol is polar and also forms an azeotrope with water, I thought it would be effective to boil the existing ethanol extraction, hoping that it would perform a similar function to the isopropyl method described by Beaker, as they have similar properties. This will not result in the best final product (given the route I took to make the ethanol extraction), but it would likely produce a better product without further investment.
Inow we’re getting somewhere…you’ve made icky goo, and want to try and clean it up.
adding water to 30% will ppt your cannabinoids. probably not what you’re after.
see louche: Search results for 'louche' - Future4200
try following @Beaker’s boiling iso verbatim.
Edit: coffee filters will get you 25micron nominal. 20 once they’re caked
Yeah but you crash out cannabinoids too. Ive tested residuals in the precipitate and about 50% is cannabinoids (this was with 20% water/80% ethanol)
At 30% water I bet it you’ll be crashing as much or more cannabinoids than the carotenes and junk.
If you follow their steps, but recover your ethanol in your still, you should have your meds
Also heat.
Hello, everyone, I am new over here do not know where to start.
Welcome,
Read read and read Some more what side of concentrates have your interest
Yes because Celite 545 is just activated d.e. . I use Harris Food Grade D.E. for filtering.
I got that now. There was a lot of learning last year! LOL Especially on the chemical side!
I recommend the books section in the data dump.
However, it really depends what you’re looking for.
@Roguelab is correct. Read, read, read some more…
I’ve been reading almost every post for over a year, and learn new stuff almost every day…
Yes, I totally agree with the point that it is depends upon me. I know where I want to explore.
Thanks for the reply.
Soooo winterization no longer uses a freezer? Or freeze first then funnel?
Step 1 = Freeze, funnel out fats
Step 2 = room temp, aluminum oxide
Step 3 = room temp, celite 545
Step 4 = room temp, activated charcoal
Buchner w filter pass 1= aluminum oxide
Ali oxide grabs 80/90% of all fats but not all
Freezing below -60C does depending on solvent used in my case ethanol or methanol with a pinch of water
Can u mix them all at once