Hey buddy thank you so much for actually reading that! Yeah so that’s me only issue was wondering if it would have pressure to go on through the filter, it goes through it when there isn’t another columm in the middle but yeah…ok so the gas in the can contains oxygen…hmm ok that means using it dangerous huh…
Ok how much nitrogen does it take, will a quick, pop of the valve be enough? Yeah if there is another big hidden cost I’m going back wards…
I’ll finally be able to get my solvent colder -40f , this may help about grabbing plant matter, seems like if I soak it any it starts grabbing plant matter… Looks like I gotta get the cryo column back out too… Just so next easier to set it in dry ice with it piled around it… Thanks so much again…
Also I have water asiparted vacuum for my buchner funnel, I really wasn’t planning on pulling on it but before I loaded it with Tane
So i guess you will have to give it a go and see if it works without adding positive pressure. You can add the pressure by adding warm solvent vapours to the top of the system but then you are using more solvent and not sure if the warm gas would counteract the cold winterising proccess.
I have gone through pounds and pounds of alumina. I found 220-240 grit to be about right. I have used finer grit but much finer that 400 grit and it makes more of a mud and is hella slow to vacuum through. I used to be able to get white alumina but can’t find it in abrasives anymore. No difference but the color looked cool in a column.
Alumina as a filtration agent is very hard to beat. Essentially it is very old tech and is simply a sand filter which are highly efficient irregardless of application. The alumina is often used in chromatography so there is a great body of knowledge to tap on the sites that deal with chromatography. There are TONS of peer reviewed articles and posts dealing with its use in chromatography. As you pointed out too it is dirt cheap lolz plus it is inert and can be cooked way hotter than is possible without a kiln before heat impacts it at all. You can cook it very hot. It fact one lab I did was to cover the extract in a layer of alumina in my sublimator. Then I tried to see if I could cook the gas up out of the alumina.
It was a very early stab at research and the alumina just popped dust all over inside as the extract bubbled but the point is that it is a very versatile compound.
I’m a smaller scale patient, trying to make very small batches of RSO with the equipment that I have available at home (equipment: MB2E, heated magnetic stirrer, sink aspirator, Buchner filter and a counter-top domestic still). My goal is to improve the final medicine by removing the lipids, waxes and chlorophyll; but, I’m unsure about a few steps, as my starting point will be an ethanol extraction from the machine (aka nasty dark tincture). If anyone can review this and give me some feedback, that would be greatly appreciated!
UPDATE: Thank you to everyone who has responded. If you also have a MB2E, do yourself a favor and read the threads on here. The cold ethanol extraction tek is a much more streamlined process that results in a far superior end product. No comparison…
Dry Ice Assisted Cold Ethanol Extraction for RSO
Drive MB2E out to the country in my trunk and give it a send off that would make Office Space proud
Perform a dry ice assisted cold ethanol extraction
Transfer collection flask to still (domestic counter-top still designed for water) and recover majority of ethanol (leaving enough ethanol to transfer crude from still to beaker after recovery)
Transfer extraction to beaker on a heated magnetic stirrer and boil off remaining ethanol at ≈ 78.2° C until bubbles stop and temperature spikes
Continue heating at ≈ 122° C for 27 minutes to fully decarboxylate extraction
Transfer to syringes for dosing, plus 1 mL for testing
I appreciate the suggestion. I read through the tech and it looks like there is no comparison between the end product, which makes complete sense. So, thank you for pointing that out. However, that still leaves me with the issue of removing the lipids, waxes and chlorophyll. Would alumina be preferable to traditional winterization and the carbon scrub? If so, can you give me your opinion on the steps I was planning on taking to remove the lipids, wax and chlorophyll above?
Filter thru buchner with 220 grit aluminum oxide still as cold as -40c as possible.
May have to filter 2-3x
Bring to room temp
Put etoh in warm water bath at 145*f (I hope I have the temp corrext), add powdered activated charcoal. Stir well. Leave to warm for 30 mins. Stir occasionally.
Let cool to room temp.
New buchner funnel with celite 545 and powdered activated charcoal on top. Please follow sop.
Filter 2-3x
Ethanol should be nice and light golden.
Please correct any errors I may have made. This is going by what I’ve read on here.
Thank you for the response. I’ve thoroughly reviewed the Bucket Tek (Cold Ethanol Extraction on a Budget) and plan to proceed when I have the necessary supplies and equipment. I was hoping to find a way to clean up some existing ethanol extraction. I realize that the machine I have used is not suited for making a high quality extraction.
As ethanol is polar and also forms an azeotrope with water, I thought it would be effective to boil the existing ethanol extraction, hoping that it would perform a similar function to the isopropyl method described by Beaker, as they have similar properties. This will not result in the best final product (given the route I took to make the ethanol extraction), but it would likely produce a better product without further investment.
Yeah but you crash out cannabinoids too. Ive tested residuals in the precipitate and about 50% is cannabinoids (this was with 20% water/80% ethanol)
At 30% water I bet it you’ll be crashing as much or more cannabinoids than the carotenes and junk.