Is degumming always necessary for water clear? Or only on certain material? Or only on material extracted above a certain temperature?
I’m not looking for a spoon, just curious. I don’t really mess with any distillation or post-processing myself, but I’ve always wondered about this.
Thank you for the response and idea! This is certainly a path i had not considered at all. After doing a little reading, I like this idea a lot. I do have a couple questions though. How thick of a consistency do you like left in the jar before moving to centrifuge?
I’m not very familiar with centrifuges in general, but think i am getting the idea. You can buy a centrifuge and swap out the rotor with one that has bigger buckets if need be? Or just hopefully find one with buckets the size you would like? Apart from bucket size, what requirements do you find necessary on the centrifuge? Min/Max rpm, heating/cooling, etc.
I can’t imagine i will have more than 750ish mL of oil at a given time. I don’t extract more than probably 3-6 times a month at the moment. if that sometimes. I also don’t mind working in small batches to help save money for now.
Noted on not needing to do anything other than recover solvent well before winterization as well, thank you again!
This may or may not be a dumb question, but what is a conversion liter? that’s a tough duck duck go search lol
I mean blowing up doesn’t sound ideal, but i’m still intrigued in this process as well. I want to learn all of it. everything. Started processing in 2015 but stopped in 2016 to just focus on cultivating. I’m back to wanting to process my own again, missed a lot of information and tek in that span. Gotta catch up now lol are there any particular threads you recommend for a pentane and crc process? I’m going to do my homework on it as well. Thank you!
Re water-clear carts: Magsil-PR is your friend.
Why do you want to make water-clear carts? For real… help us understand why you need to get it all the way to water-clear.
I ask this question because water-clear distillate can be highly prone to oxidation. So much so that water-clear carts can be a real pain in the ass to produce consistently at scale. (This is not surprising because getting it water clear removes virtually all of the natural antioxidants.) To put this another way: when one is not hyper careful with big batches of water-clear distillate, one usually ends up with big batches of purple distillate (which is painfully counter-productive).
A small amount of natural color (e.g., very light yellowish) in your distillate will often help to prevent oxidization… at least this has been my observation.
Food for thought.
If u can do it without magsil pr, youd be way better off, no need to use an expensive powder that is meant to do other things besides clear up ur disty.
Magsil pr route will send u down a rabbit hole trying to figure out how to ph correct the oil properly, so that u dont get the purple.
If your serious and starting a company based on consistent clear cart production your going to need a glovebox that is backfilled with argon. Backfill with argon at every step of the way, extra points if u get a big enough glovebox to fit a microwave.
If u want to take the extra steps to setup the box u can get o2 sniffers that tell you how much o2 is in the box.
It can def be done with cold extracted ethanol crude with no dewaxing or degumming, u just need to transfer over to pentane or heptane to do color remediation effectively.
To make it easier on oxidation, ive been splitting my batches into A grade (yellow) and B grade (could have some green or pigments, from warming up in the centrifuge). A grade just gets decarbed and sent to the SPD, B grade gets diluted with heptane and sent thru powders and then ph balanced with ph water. Both get thrown together for first pass then a sample is taken and left out for a day. If it goes heavy purple or heavy red, then i do one more ph balance b4 it goes for second pass, if its still nice and clear or slightly yellow, it doesnt get any adjustments and just sent to a second pass in spd. The combination of powders i use, costs me roughly $16/liter to clean up, if i used magsil pr it would probably be around $160/L to clean up (these figures are for bulk buys of powders, if ur buying small retail sizes ur cost can probably be 5x from what i said)
Ah yes that was extremely helpful! I believe i have the knowledge to proceed now. I’m sure there will be some snags along the way, but can’t know until we get there. I cannot thank you enough. I have seen you on so many threads helping folks out.
So, that’s an awesome question. I basically made the assumption that water clear d9 is more pure/higher quality. I figured if i could make water clear, then leaving some color in the cart would be a more simple process and easy to accomplish at that point; as opposed to the other way around. Also knowing the tek seems like a good idea for when someone does find a solution to the oxidation issues.
That being said, at the end of the day, myself and my patients will be very happy with a nice, lightly colored cart that tastes pleasant, and hits smoothly throughout. Absolutely no opposition to leaving some color in to help with oxidation issues.
I think i’ve since learned too that even very very pure thca can still be a tint of yellow, so i’m not entirely sure that water clear is a more pure d9 like i originally did. But, dead ass honest, i think they look really cool still lol minus the oxidation rings. I currently get some that are water clear and my patients don’t care about the color from the oxidation. Despite no one asking, I’ve explained to them it was either oxidation or pH (wasn’t 100% sure at the time). I don’t think they could have cared less. Regardless, I hear what you’re saying and appreciate your input mightily! Water clear may not remain the end goal depending on what happens along the way.
Mmm that’s some good info right there. Low ass overhead might legitimately be my first, middle, and last name…haha. yeah. i went down that rabbit hole two nights ago lol fickle sounding process, but i’d give it a try. like to try to dabble in a little bit of everything if possible. Thank you for sharing some of the finer details of your process, that wisdom goes a long way.
I think i had read that somewhere else on here as well about backfilling/sweeping with argon (possibly from you on another thread?). I’ll have to do some more digging into gloveboxes as i only did a quick search, and saw they can get pretty pricey.
I’m pretty small scale at the moment and the majority of what i rely on is just straight flower. I’m trying to get into making carts and better concentrates in general to make sure my patients, girlfriend, and i have a steady supply first and foremost. I also think i could do better on that end in terms of my overall model. I’m very centric on flower at the moment. Not a bad thing, just always trying to improve…and also no shade towards my extract dudes bc i’m pretty sure they’re on here somewhere, super cool dudes, just hard to get a hold of sometimes. I think we all know how frustrating outsourcing can be at times.
Quick question on this. Rotovap after cold ethanol extraction, or nah? Feel like the answer is probably yes considering i’ve read pentane is an angry volatile mf, but that could certainly be wrong. Process would be ethanol extraction, rotovap, pentane/heptane was then boil off, spd?
I haven’t ignored this question, i just didn’t know the answer lol i think this answers it well though.
https://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-capacity-floor-abrasive-blast-cabinet-68893.html
Heres a cheap option for a glove box, theres some modifications u still need to make but its very close to what u need for cheap.
You def need a rotovap or some sort of device that recovers solvents effectively.
First time i attempted i made a diy glovebox out of a plastic container, sleeves from a tyvex suit and some gloves. It can be done for cheap lol
Ive got clients that make water clear carts on a $200 budget, so u can too! (Sorry let me clarify, they have a $200 budget to fill carts after they recieved or made the water clear disty)
You can certainly make d9 distillate that when you put into carts will look very very close to water clear that are completely stable.
The solution of using converted d9 (even if it tests in the high 90s) should be considered much less desirable because of the significantly less desirable stereochemistry difference that will make naturally occurring d9 that tests even at 10% lower “feel” stronger because of said stereochemistry difference.
Thats good information right there and will be utilizing that at some point. I greatly appreciate your wisdom! I’m sure i will have more questions going forward.
okay this confuses me a little bit. The part i think that is confusing me is the “using converted d9”. Converted from what? Thank you for your response though! I love continuously learning.
You can turn CBD into D8 or D9 with things you have in your kitchen (although you probably won’t do it well with just that tooling).
It’s cheaper, and some argue “federally legal”.
You might want to read a little before going that route.
Alright so i have a centrifuge, fritted tubes, carts, terps and diluent in case its a bit too viscous, pentane, etc. I am just waiting on jars to finish up, but i made them using only the strong tek bc the terps smelled great. Especially the mac stomper. Can’t bring myself to spin off the terps on that jar. If i can get the pyrex dish to nucleate (mentioned below), i’ll throw one of the dungeon family jars that popped a lid into a pyrex and add pentane. Just don’t want to start adding pentane to a bunch of stuff without getting the results we are looking for first.
That pyrex dish had a little bit of crude in it, and 10% pentane by volume. I had no such luck getting it to nucleate. Currently trying 20-25% and mixed it in to see if i can get better results. The crude is very thick at this point since it was small jar i was just fucking around with to start. Started it using only the strong tek + otswalds ripening for about a week. Didn’t really like the results (i pheno hunt everything in my garden, so there’s really no telling how things are going to turn out in terms of getting thca to crash out). After that week, took the lid off the jar while it was cold, put it on 90F heat for 24 hours and then put the lid back on. Increased heat to 100F. No crashing out after 3-4 days. Increased to 110-115 for a couple days. Rather than wait longer, I said fuck it and bought some pentane bc i wanted to play with that tek anyways. Seems like it could potentially save a lot of time.
So that’s where i’m at right now. Just waiting on either that pyrex to nucleate, or some jars to finish. My patients also want those jars as is though too…so we’ll see what their fate is. Either way, got plenty more stuff to run.
Thank you to everyone who has helped me get this far, and sorry it took a little bit to report back. Didn’t want to post on here again until i could show some progress, and show that all of your advice is being implemented and greatly appreciated beyond what i can type on this keyboard!
Ahhh okay this makes more sense now. Im going to read more into that but am not getting d9 that way. Following your guidance, using a centrifuge
Converted Delta 9 refers to Delta 9 that was made by converting CBD into Delta 9.
Delta 9 has a Chiral Center and depending on the orientation of it, it is more or less psychoactive. Converted Delta 9 has a much less desirable Chiral Center. For argument’s sake let’s say you have 100g of 100% Delta 9 but it has only 50% of the desired stereochemistry orientation then you would have 50 g of “desirable material”. On the other hand you have the same 100 g with 90% Delta 9 but 85% of the desired stereochemistry then you will have 76.5 g of the “desirable material”. 76.5g is more than 50% more than 50g. I hope that makes it clear.