@vortal Is the PFR 97 safe to spray on the property if I have animals (dogs)?
The best treatment for pm is plant health, I had problems with it when I first started growing, havenāt seen it for about 1.5 years, I run higher humidity now then I ever used to with no issues, the perfect environment will not prevent it.
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I have Botaniguard 22 WP on hand, not sure if this is root drench only or if it can be foliar sprayed. That is awesome it doesnāt affect predator bugs only the pests. Does anyone have experience with this, Is it just as effective in coco? How often do you have to apply this stuff, and will it keep pests away 100% - or is it only to kill pests after infestation?
As @Medicine.grower mentioned, the closest youāre going to get to one and done is: strong cultural and physical practices that create a crop healthy enough to defend itself. But without a strong agricultural background, itās highly unlikely to happen. I literally make a living selling cultural and physical services to people that donāt know how.
Culturaly I can solve most of these problems by using nutrition to make the plant uninhabitable to to pests. Unfortunately itās like dancing on the edge of a razor blade to maintain an environment like that.
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Diatomaceous earth can be very useful in the fight of pests!
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What would you guys recommend using between runs to cover bases and reset the tent?
So far Iāve been using rubbing alcohol with dawn. Somewhat similar what @AgTonik suggested, minus the oil. I didnāt have PM or pests so not sure how effective it is, never can be too careful and practice good cleaning techniques.
Only pest that keeps re-appearing and I keep fighting is fungus gnats. They start to show up usually at around week 2 of flower, nothing during veg. With plant limited count I do usually take them to around 30 days. Growing in coco. As mentioned above is sand the most effective preventive measure?
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Iāve used it as a drench to kill RA
pfr97 works better
Silly fix I learned at the hydro store- try scented dryer sheets on top of the root ball. Remove them when you irrigate. If it doesnāt work, you can always nuke them into oblivion with Root Cleaner.
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Gaeolaelaps works great for fungus gnats and thrips. Also Iāve seen these stick around a long time after application.
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Oh wow. I love applied bionomics like biostimulants. Those little bastards are supposed to be 50% more effective as soil predators for fungus gnats compared to Stratiolaelaps scimitus. Thatās the new thing I learned today. Thank you!
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Open salts wiki is great for to know for reference and recipes.
Thank you for all the suggestions.
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BTI
mosquito dunks or gnatrol
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Oh yeah, I forgot about those. I always had to use BTI when I mixed super soil or early in veg for them to take hold properly.
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I never had pests until recently had an insane amount of gnats. In the past I used DE and root drenches of too many things to count to no avail so I got some $2 bags of sand from Home Depot and havenāt seen one since. Could. Have saved a ton of money just doing that in the first place.
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I was thinking of trying a mix of coco and soil and to add in fresh garlic (planted or raw crushed), diatomaceous earth, cedar wood, and top the pots with 2" of sandā¦
Would that 100% prevent/deter aphids, fungus gnats, spider mites, etc in a tent in garage on property with pest issues.
Should I add PFR 97 and BTI to the mix?
I have AzaPro, how do you feel about Aza products? when would yall recommend to stop usage if I am concerned about clean smokeable flower? Is neem seed meal just as effective if short term in a 3 month cycle.
If my idea above wont work, what are everyoneās thoughts on products like pyganic, if used as spray and/or soil drench once during early veg? Is that enough to protect them through flower? Would the flower be safe to smoke?
Is there some organic way to turn my tent into a fortress without breaking the bank?
I spray azaguard every week until mid week 3 of flower. Passes all testing.
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I use sufoil x, applied every 3 days in veg, then 1 spray of micronized sulfur day 10 of flower. I know sulfur and oils donāt mix but Iāve only ever had issues when spraying oil over sulfur the 10 days between the suf oil and sulfur is always enough and never burns. Spinosad for thrips applied as a one and done when needed but only use on indoor crops cause ya know bees. That micro sulfur spray has probably been the biggest game changer for my garden, itās completely controlled pm for me. Still using the Graco paint sprayerā¦ Kinda old-school now but still works greatā¦what are yāall using to spray your sprays?
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@emdub27 you said
This is the first time Iāve heard someone mention thisā¦ can you explain why in laymanās terms?
I ran organic soil for a while- mixing dry nutrients and feeding weekly teas that included products like earth juice Hi Brix. Was all that a waste of time?
Has anyone ever ran coco medium and added slow release nutrients, and not done hydro feedings? I was plugging some Jobes organic spikes around my Citrus tree the other day and it made me wonder just how lazy I could be with my other plants.
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Salt based itās difficult to get there without tons of trial and error or tissue analysis. Not really feasible with a few plants unless you enjoy lighting time and money on fire.
With slow release organics, itās difficult to make meaningful changes that will give results within the short lifetime of the plant. Itās like you are always building the soil for the next crop, always planning months in advance.
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Iām now in week 2 of flower and wanted to say that sand works wonders. Total of 3 fungus gnats on 4 different sticky traps and those are Iām pretty sure leftovers from the previous run.
I see a lot of good recommendations for bio-safe systems but as usual nothing in my back of the woods. Would you guys recommend Athena IPM to have on hand both as preventive and fighting pests if necessary? Or maybe somebody can recommend a more cost-effective product that could be found and shipped in EU?
With the winter coming Iām mostly concerned about mold and mildew. Besides fungus gnats, itās been pretty straightforward but I would like to be prepared and ready instead of reacting when it might be late.
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