First this may not be the right category and maybe we should have a repair/replacement part category…
Anyway, we fill carts with a Thompson Duke MCF1, which I mostly love, but occasionally the valve through which the syringe sucks up the oil, allows the oil to flows back from whence it came rather than into the cart. Usually it seems to be caused by a bubble or particulate matter but either way I can usually get it back on track, and fortunately we have a back-up valve. Apparently they eventually wear out as I can’t get this puppy back on track.
A replacement cost $300!! (yup, you read that right, $300)
Has anyone had experience removing the guts from one of these little buggers or have any trick of the trade for repairing them?
Looks like the $300 replacement is an upgrade so maybe fixes the problem?
“ The Duke Valve™ is a custom dual check valve designed to replace the legacy check valve assemblies on Automatic Filling Machine or Manual Filling Machine. This new valving provides a more wear resistant valve solution for Automatic Filling Machine or Manual Filling Machine while preserving the replacibility of the delivery system. The Duke Valve™ is now standard on all new Automatic Filling Machine or Manual Filling Machine purchases and upgrade kits are available to update legacy machines.”
My only input other than several ethanol cleanings is to try to find the part third party. I know that most of the time I order a part through my cart filling manufacturer it comes in a mcmaster-carr bag. Save the product sku and cut out the middle man.
When we still used the Thompson Duke we would just clean this valve out with ethanol and we’ve never had issues with it. I believe they provide a metal rod that you can use to insert into the right side luer lock (where the oil comes in) to keep the valve open. Let it soak in some ethanol and it should function properly.
I have this problem all the time. It definitely has to do with how well you clean the valve. Cleaning it properly, meaning back flushing it with ethanol after every single use is essential. They do break with time though to where they will just no longer function but back flushing it with ethanol is pretty much a mandatory step or they’re going to break really fast. To back flush shovel syringe tip in the bottom of it to open up the one-way valve and shoot ethanol in the opposite direction.
You need to determine if it’s actually broken or just sticky on the inside because they seem pretty similar. A sonication in warm ethanol can definitely fix if it’s just gummed up from not back flushing properly but it does lead to it getting actually broken quicker.
There is a small o-ring within the valve that would always get jacked up after some time/improper cleaning… At BizCon this year TD had an upgraded heating block that covered the valve - has anyone have a chance to try one out? I believe this is a ~$1500 upgrade
