my pops rebuilt ours when it took a crap and delta wanted 25k. the part that goes bad is the mechanics seal. A company ASEAL I believe is the name sells them for 4k. When I get home after work ill look through my photos and can send you the whole thing torn down and each part.
Depends if you’re flooding it (or flowing liquid through it) or not.
It’s the wrong tool for the trick I was trying to perform, but I know how to solve that, and at this point I’m committed to tearing it down, so chances are it’s gonna do what I’m requesting or die trying
this one has got it’s own room, and if I do anything stupid like over-clock it directly from the VFD, then the controls would be outside that room (with e-stop on fuge).
I’ve still got to get it spinning again and convince the boss to throw more $$ on top of that to make it perform new tricks.
I had, but that was before I broke the damn 40hr centrifuge.
That’s because one would have plenty of solvent to absorb the heat load and keep the machine from reaching that critical temperature point.
You know the right type of grease for those bearings, and you know that the temperature rating leans heavily toward the colder end of the spectrum. Can imagine it would lose viscosity and move where one doesn’t want it in a hurry without something to take the heat load. The jacket is too far away from the heat source to make enough difference, methinks.
I’m guessing that if I pull the hi-lighted fastener beside “B”, the mechanical seal and shaft head will pull up and leave the rest of the drive behind?
Also guessing WHEN that fastener is removed could change the nature of the task. With removing early making pulling the head off easier?