I will say it has to do with what salts you add to the mixture. Some studies show a series of salts tested and some of them work well to convert nearly all the THCa to CBN and ∆8-THC with virtually no ∆9-THC. I have to do some experiencing to see which of these leaves the greatest amount of CBD in tact.
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Come on give us a hint Where ti search 
[quote=“Integritylab, post:65, topic:2397”]
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Okay okay. Look up analytical testing of methods for decarboxylating cannabinoids. There are a few papers in that pile (not patents, but papers) that you can unlock from sci-hub.tw
I’ll throw you a little bone here as a nice starting point.
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You are the man that probably makes 2018 a good year even thou i got a realy good offer from an other forum member
That i accepted
Thank You
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I always like how some of the time we don’t give each other direct answers on the hard ones. But hints to keep our hungry and minds working. All part of the thrill of the hunt
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Well, I’ll be sharing every piece of useful information I come across since this site has been so helpful for me personally and I’d like to give back as much as I can. Not that I expect to be spoon fed. I’m not ungrateful for the hints one bit. Thanks so much for the link @Krative. One thing I found this weekend is why distillate is so prefferable to isolate over isolating straight from crude. This photo is after my first crystallization of crude. 4 rinses later and my yield is atrocious and the crystals are still light tan.
I’m going to try this PH swing method while discarding the organic layer on my next run to see if this improves yield and reduces how many washes are required. I did this with the mother liquor to remove the rest of the cannabinoids and after just one separation the color of what I retrieved from the aqueous layer was heads and shoulders above what the color of my starting crude was.
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That’s also terrible crude. Hot carbon scrub through a D.E. Cake.
Purity is a necessity for crashing. So gotta help it out atleast a little bit.
Notice how our unfiltered stuff looks like yours and is very black? Try crashing stuff that looks like our crude on the right. Would be curious to see results
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Is that stuff on the right in a solution or purged out? My extract was with cold etoh (~ -50c) and filtered through a carbon and bentonite cake. The oleoresin was gold/orange and was about that color after removing about 75% of the ethanol, but after reclaiming all the ethanol and decarbing it took on a black color as seen in the photo and I can’t figure out why. I also winterized in 10:1 ethanol just to make sure there weren’t any waxes pulled and as expected no waxes precipitated or collected onto the paper filter. I’m currently using a vacuum still and not a rotovap if that makes any difference. I’m still awaiting the test results on my final crude, but it was a high enough potency to start crystallizing on its own. Extracted from hemp that was 8% CBD.
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I did not winterize with dry ice. I winterized in a freezer at -25c for 2 days.
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Please do winterize on dry ice for at least 3 hours after letting it sit at -25C for 2 days.
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That’s warm wash. And it wouldn’t clear up until we did a hot carbon mixture poured through the DE cake. Made a NIGHT AND DAY difference from doing the carbon scrub even at room temp.
I believe it was final product waiting to go into the short path. The more it darkens up as the ethanol purge means either carbon got though or the scrub wasn’t done well enough. Don’t get me wrong it will alwaysss darken with ethanol leaving the solution but if it rly rly darkens then ya that’s something I re scrub.
Ya you rly want like -40, but -20 should have done the trick for2 days. Trying pulling more ethanol out of he solution. When people tell me they are winterizing their solution at a proper temp but it still doesn’t work, 90% of the time they have left to much ethanol in the solution
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Stuff won’t crash if it hasn’t been winterized properly either. I’m a dipshit so I’m sure there’s some cool explanation but crystals HATE fats and lipids
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Fats and lipids are oils which dissolve cannabinoids and form a thick oily mixture rather than nice clean crystal formations.
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Yea, come to think of it I may have been a little too stingy with the carbon fearing I’d fuck up my yield. I’ll keep that in mind the next run, as well as try winterizing on dry ice. Even though I’m extracting at negative 50c, I keep hearing conflicting reports as to the necessity of winterization with cold extractions, so it won’t hurt to see for myself. I’ll also have to pick up a microscope seeing as they’re cheaper than I thought. I highly doubt it’s carbon fines making it through bentonite or celite, but it wouldn’t hurt to check.
One thing I noticed is a beautiful white layer of what appeared to be fine crystals at the bottom of my boiling flask when I was prepping the solution for recrystallization after pouring off the mother and adding fresh pentane. I turned the stir bar on and heated it for reflux anyway assuming it would just recrystallize that way, but that was a bust. On my next crystallization I’m going to add the pentane to distillate strictly by weight rather than volume, as I may have used too little solvent given that the density is only like .62g/ml and the tek specifically calls for 1g of extract to 2g of pentane.
I would love clarification on this point as well.
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Well i have something i often winterize between first and second SPD runs and Yes there is still Some Waxes and fats
In Cryo -78C ethanol 96% extracts but just a little
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COLD EXTRACT DOESNT MEAN YOU CAN SKIMP ON WINTERIZATIONS!
Winterizing is one of the most key aspects in this process. 1:10 ratio is the largest ratio you can use all the way down to a 1:5 ethanol to solution ratio depending on results. I use 5-10 grams per liter of solution with carbon depending on how gross the solution is. I also make sure to use a slow flow filter (>10 microns ) to ensure it doesn’t get through.
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Yeah this
If your winterizing well this shouldn’t ever be necessary as it slows down the process significantly. People also carbon scrub and DE filter between 1st and second. This shouldn’t be necessary if it’s done properly before hand.
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