So if I were to torch/braze the lid of the solvent tank, should it be empty?
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That would probably be smart.
No. Don’t do that.
Why no?
Different coefficient of thermal expansion so it will likely start leaking again but mostly because it won’t do much to keep that crack from growing. Also brazing stainless is a fucker and likely to get messed up.
Have you ever tried tig brazing with silicon bronze on stainless? Because I find it’s vastly easier than actually tig welding with stainless filler.
Not much tig brazing on stainless but I’ve done a couple dozen pounds of tig brazing on other materials (mostly fucked up machined castings). I’ve done an annoying about of brazing with SilPhos and such on stainless for heat exchangers though and I think it’s my absolute least favorite thing in the world.
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Just a lil dab will do her right on that little crack, that silicon bronze stuff adheres real nice to stainless. I think it would give it enough strength to keep from growing that crack. Lot less heat input required to get itnto melt in there too.
op definitely isn’t gonna be getting inspected anytime soon.
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If I wanted to fix that, I’d drill it all out and weld a port in with appropriate reinforcement and call it done. Cracks kill people on pressure parts, no need to fuck around on this one
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That asking about welding a solvent tank not empty was just bait. Sorta like when I made that joke post about hydrogen extraction and found out there’s a place for that! Echo chamber?
FWIW, hot tapping is a thing so you could do it safely but obviously that would be silly for this application
just because it sticks does not mean it is a correct repair.
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Is there such a thing as the 12”x1-1/2” hemispherical reducer with a 1/2” FNPT end cap with the welded legs to a ring on the ground that incorporates the 12”x30” splatter spool, essentially taking out the bottom 12” clamp between spool and flat bottom splatter? So like one piece up to the splatter lid 12” tri-clamp. With a valve on bottom. But cheaper then the ones on coasters
304SS is easy to Tig repair and is how I would do it, using 316L wire. The proper way to fix it, is to stop drill the ends and grind out the cracks into a weld prep for a full penetration weld. As it is a pressure vessel operating above one atmosphere, the weld needs to be done by an ASME certified welder.
Attempting to braze repair a thermally cycling pressure vessel is unwise. As your are using LPG and are with the 6" and smaller vessel size, you must meet 350 psi pressure rating and have a pressure relief at 1.3 times that.
Why is it cracking in the first place? As you are thermal cycling it, you should also solution anneal the welded lid at 2000F for thirty minutes and then water quench it.
Alas it is unlikely that it will any longer be straight, so will require straightening and touch up machining, begging the question as to why you don’t just replace the lid. I would be easier and cheaper than fixing the mysteriously cracking one properly.
Operating with known leaks outside a C1D1 room with adequate ventilation not only exposes you and your employees to serious danger, it exposes the leaders to criminal prosecution should an employee or bystander get seriously injured or killed.
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Easy for you to say but a picture/sketch of your dream part would be worth a thousand words. Suffice to say that there are folks on this forum that can build you anything you want.
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Sounds like you’d like to have @Soxhlet weld a port and some legs on the end of a 12" triclamp hemi cap? Might as weld one if these on the end of it while you’re at it:
Can’t imagine it would cost very much
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if you had an existing platter we could modify it for substantially less than starting from scratch.
What is the cousin fucking hell is this?
Mans turned a cls into an art installation
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