So I’m running these leds for the second time. This is the first time running sour diesel and gmo cookies under these fixtures. I’m in the middle of week 4 and still no stacking. Looks like they are just starting to stack. Wondering if I’m looking at reduced yeild , crop failure, or just a really really long run. Anyone experiencing anything like this??.
GMOs
Sours
*69. ( MAC 6 X MAC 9) for comparison.
Before you guys say anything spider mites have been killed damage is old.
I did let them dry out one night in the first week of flower. I would make excuses but we will just go with because I’m an idiot lol.
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Calcium and kelp at transition helps. Calcium intake is highest at flip and revs the plant metabolism. Cytokinin-dominant kelp helps structure with lateral branching and reduces stretch.
EDIT: Check your input and runoff pH. I see purple stems which indicates a phosphorus or magnesium deficiency.
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Thanks I’ve been doing this a long time but these leds are kicking my ass. I am tempted to RIP them out and go to gavitas I help a friend with their DE grow and we crush it. I’m running a high pk addative and epsom. Salts in addition to base nutrients and of course the all important cal mag 1400 ppm at 5.5 to 5.7 in soiless room is 83 humidity 62 .
So you think the stretching is normal? Week 4 is a long time . Gmo is in the ceiling lol.
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GMO is definitely a stretcher. I’m getting back into 12 week hazes. I am going to have to plan accordingly.
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I’ve got a gmo, and a new to me sour in flower r/n can’t wait for this run!!
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U def need some.calcium…calcium carbonate helps regulate ph in soil I think
Also true sativas take uo to 3months flowering so the last month is when id expect it to bulk.up
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Got any light leaks?
Timers turning on during dark?
That looks fucked up for 4 weeks. Likes like 1.5 weeks
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No light leaks. And the MAC is stacking normally which is really confusing. Also no asymmetrical leaves or three bladed or single bladed growth which leads me to believe it’s not a light related.
Ok with what I can tell you from the pictures. Fist of all turn all lights down. Total darkness go into your room pick a spot sit or stand and close your eyes for 3 or 4 minutes then open them.and let them adjust for 5 ir 6 minutes. Look around for light leaks if any kind. The cracks around windows doors your exhaust ducts or intakes any sign of light must be eliminated completely.Usually light traveling through duct work will be found if around door jams. You have a nutrient deficiency which is creating a nutrient toxicity it looks like. They are looking like their medium is locked up possibly as you are showing multiple signs of nutrient issues. Tip.burn means to hot . Calcium and iron do nit get along well together so water with an iron content will react with fertilizer that has calcium In it… NEVER ADD NUTRIENTS TO YOUR PLANTS IN AN ATTEMPT TO CORRECT AN UNKNOWN PROBLEM… DONT EVER LISTEN TO ANYONE TELLING YOU TO ADD NUTRIENTS OR SUPPLEMENTS BEFORE KNOWING WHAT GOING ON IN YOUR MEDIUM AND WITH YOUR WATER SUPPLY CHECK THEM BOTH. HOME DEPOT HAS FREE WATER TESTING KITS AVAILABLE THAT YOU GET AND SEND OUT TO KNOW WHATS IN YOUR WATER… “I RECOMMEND DOING THIS” What type of nutrients are you running? …So here is what you do. Take a gallon or 2 of water and water your plants until.you have run off. Collect this run off into small Dixie cups or Styrofoam cups from several plants as it’s running through the plant. Then test the PH the TDS and EC of the water. You will find problems with all 3 of them… ph should be 6.5 to 7.0 TDS should be no higher then 800 in soil. You will find people that will say 1000 ppm in bloom… Remember less is more and over 800 is starting to push the limits. I maintain a max ppm of 700. Your EC should be .5 to 1.5. You might find data that states 2.0. This grower keeps a cap of 1.5 max. Here is the quick take on the LED’S . LED Technology is improving and in theory sounds good but nobody to date has developed an LED array that is complete in spectral wavelength. Leds light fixtures are designed with individual chips of given wavelength. So a fixture might be composed of 540nm 580 nm 600 nm and 660 nm. Single color wavelengths. Where as say CMH is producing light from 520 through 760 and all points In between . LED also lack the ability to penetrate the canopy very deeply at all. So your light definitely leaves something to be desired. I have been working with manufactures on developing the right arrays of LED chip sets for 6 years and were not there yet. Do LEDs work? Marginally do they save you on your power bills? Marginally! You will be 5 years or more to recover the cost offset and your using isolated wavelengths for your plants food production as well. Remember duplicating mother nature to the best of your abilities is your goal I doors. The SUN is full spectrum. Next I will touch on the spider mites. The spider mites are not hone only the adults are gone. Trust that there eggs still hanging out that will hatch and reinfect you crop. There is only one way I kown of to permanently get rid of spider mites and its a proprietary formula that I have developed over 12 years that is a combination of 3 products that must be used together for remediation of the mites . There is not a grow store anywhere that has these products. Grow stores do not benefit from your success. They benefit from your failures. So why would ghey ever want to sell you something that permanently eliminated your problem? Threy would not they would rather sell you something that your back replacing every 2 weeks. I do sell the formula if your interested. Money back guarantee. Finally if your growing Sativa it should be understood that you are growing a long season genus of cannabis. Some pure haze strains can go 20 weeks . Its all relevant to the plants geographical ancestory. Pure Landrace Thai strains can take 240 days to ripen Mexucan Sativas can take 12 to 16 weeks South American Columbian can go 14 to 20 weeks. As a general rule you should count on sativa dominant strains taking a minimum of 10 weeks and usually 12 to mature fully. This is why growers prefer indicas. 8 weeks and your done. But nothing beats a full term sativa in my opinion. They take more time but pay in spades. There is a lot of bad information out there more then there is good. It’s produced largely by the manufactures of trademark products for the purpose of selling those products. With 35 years as a cultivator of cannabis I have watched this whole industry develope on conceptual and theoretical based products. From lighting to nutrients to supplements. I have tried and tested in controlled studies numerous nutritional products with hyped up claims and found that the vast majority of products out there are redundant. Read you ingredients on the container. If your using organic products and the product has been in the container longer then 3 months its worthless. The food source for the living microbes inside has been consumed and the microbes mosr to all dead. I could go on and on about this. The best piece of advice I can offer you is to be a proactive gardener and inspect what you expect. Proactive gardening is much more fruitful and far less expensive the reactive gardening. I hope something that I have shared here helps you in some way and that you find the joy in cultivating this incredible plant. But you must be patient and learn from it. It will teach you everything you need to know to become a successful cultivator but you have to want to learn it It does take time 10 years or more. The learning curve is long and expensive but having a Ph weed is priceless in today’s developing industry.
Respectfully
Dr.Zoffer
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Appreciate your response I’ll check my runoff tonight. I have also done this at scale for over ten years. LEDs are kicking my ass. If I feed what I feed de plants they look much much worse than this. I just run gh 3 part cal mag and since I switched to led I ve had to run magnesium sulfate. But I can never keep them from the purple stems . I’ve tried all sorts of feeds and I can get them happy for a bit short term but they will show signs of nutrient issues after a week or so even in veg sometimes. I’ve been limping through crops with mediocre results at best.
My water is ro after a uv filter but I am taking to a lab this week I’m also testing for hplv.
I’m also working on led spectrum with a company but thr CEO is making me run his very poor imo spectrums first to prove they suck lol. We finally got rid of the purple lights last run.
This spectrum is heavy in red and blue with a big dip in the middle but it looks white so he calls it full spectrum. Was ok last run.
I killed the spider mites with predators and I run tea for microbes.
Anyone have a good recommendation for a salt feed for these LEDs?
I appreciate you taking your time to respond.
