I’ve got three motorized rotovap’s onsite that have apparently never performed that task well. one of the options we are considering is converting them to manual lift.
Any of y’all solved that one in a manner you’d care to share?
so far I’ve got 80’s era mercedes/volvo jack and this critter as possible routes…
If the motor is NFG or marginal, and the amps are available, replacing it with something with a little more oomph might solve the problem.
Something with a LOT more oomph would definitely make it move, but I somehow doubt that there’s over 10A to spare on that circuit.
Look to have been using a 2A 24V wall-wart style switching power supply.
These are hypothetically “explosion proof”, but I’m not clear that is compatible with the state I found their control boxes in
User reported “shorting” accompanied by failure to obey instructions 
It’s entirely possible that “I can’t go up or down” was a symptom of “swimming switcher”.
Dunno…
Gonna try more ergs first.
“explosion proof” sometimes === you will have proof of the explosion after it happens
There was evidence of actual combustion…
Could get a new linear actuator, might try mc master carr? Dry the electronics out and see what is still working.
What is the travel range of the actuator?
How about the weight of the bath?
200mm 3000N are the claims on the current incarnation.
Both pictures with said glyphs are on the fuzzy side.
My bad, I assumed gearmotor from size and function.
I’ve got a shiny nickel that says that the motor itself is probably fine - unless it also had the magic smoke let out - but one of the things in the swampy control box is toast. Humidity inside relays is generally frowned upon.
Fixing the control side may re-enable the uping and downing.
New components on order. PID may be the hardest to source.
Hoping scrap switcher will be enough to figure thumbs up vs thumbs down on the lift…
They are rumored to have always been problematic, and may simply be undersized. @Soxhlet’s request for bath weight is a decent starting point.
The all knowing one suggests replacement 24V (or pick your voltage if fully replacing everything) linear actuators could be quite inexpensive if you want to retain the non-armstrong method.
Available in chinesium and north American grade for $100-$2000.
Have you checked if the motor works, the mechanism may be bound up with corrosion from the looks of the picture. Do some exploratory surgery, can’t hurt a cadaver right?
1.5A at 24V didn’t get any movement from either of the ones I’ve got gutted at the moment. OEM power supplies we 2A, so I’ve got a buddy at the scrap yard looking out for a couple of larger ones next week.
pulling/dissecting the motors is on the list.
I recall seeing a creative solution to this problem out in yerrington…dare I invoke @VerifiedConsultant
Going to get a little hacky here but assuming you have compressed air in the lab, you could always go the pneumatic actuator route. They’re cheap as all else and just require a little 5/3 manual valve to operate. Biggest trick is making them move slowly
I was thinking that, but it might be a little fast and smash the flask. It would defiantly need a limit switch.
Small diameter tube and one of the flow adjustment nozzles can fix the speed issue. I would just mount the actuator low enough that the travel can’t lift the bath the whole way, and then add a bolt to the end to adjust to suit.
Yes @Lincoln20XX @SidViscous @Soxhlet: motor is suffering the same issues as rest of the electronics…
Beginning search for replacement linear actuators with better water ingress rating (at a minimum).
And no, they didn’t go in the trash can. Heading to the recycling center…or perhaps a storm drain near you
It seems like IP67 actuators are far more common than I’d expected on first search. I’m sure you’ll have no problem finding something appropriate.
Yeah… there’s your problem lol.
Side note, I have never seen a rotovap so junked up. Wooks again?
No clue. Two out of three. Good one has oil in the bath. Wrecked ones had water. Ostensibly “explosion proof”. Clearly not “water proof”.
