Yes again that’s not how you treat them. Baking then won’t really change much.
The process that’s know that works well is either butane or propane. I have always heard propane is best.
Remove your bead column column.
Flush liquid propane in reverse.
Then use nitrogen or argon and vapor flush the hydrocarbon fluid out entirely. Now you are close to being ready.
Next step is pull vacuum on it while there’s a heating jacket on it or something warm. Once it has sat under vacuum close both valves in front and rear of your canister.
Hold under vacuum untill next use.
The hydrocarbon will flush out all water, done at room temp specifically. This is what removes the water.
The vapor push flushes everything else out and dried it out by using a form of molecular drag to displace all other molecules.
Vacuum prepared it for use and keeps it fresh.
If you don’t follow these steps you aren’t doing it right.
The issue with baking it out is no matter how much you bake it out under vacuum the moment you open your oven it’s soaked again as it cools down and absorbs air.
Yes that’s true. I forgot to add blowing the canister out should always be done while blowing the same inert gas out the coil. This will remove moisture and dry the coil entirely. Without these steps it’s a failure across the board.
LoL, I think everyone understands the beads need to be replaced or regenerated when they’re saturated.
Honestly they get so dusty and crumbly after regen it’s probably better/easier to just replace them. Especially if you want him to do that long and complicated procedure you posted which seems unnecessary.
Also, he effectively redistills the solvent every time he does a run, doesn’t he? Why doens’t the water stay in the collection pot or finished oil?
Clearly it has been proven time and time again that the simple distillation we are doing in the collection pot does not stop moisture and it co-distills. Seems like a fractional system would be necessary to remove it.
Running the liquid through a properly sized desiccant would be much faster and easier than redistilling the solvent multiple times, which probably wouldn’t work.
This is definitely not the problem, lol. Even if he were running live resin it’s not the problem.
They don’t get dusty if done right. What you are referring to is user error.
Water evaporated as a conditioning effect when recovering. This is a fact.
I think you are confused on some sops and other tasks. This is probably why you think the way you do.
Ice is the most common cause of a clogged coil. However, it shouldn’t be happening that fast, especially if you’re running cured material.
It’s possible you have a leak in the system that is causing the ice buildup or another issue causing the clog.
Are you placing the beads in a sock or using any filter to ensure the beads stay put? I’ve seen beads make their way through different parts of a system and cause clogs. If your column has a diptube, you can place a rosin bag over the end to be safe.
You around yourself. Alot of oems say things that aren’t valid or exacting. Have you ever had a conversation with typical sales and distribution people at major companies? They don’t have a clue what they are talking about most of the time.
Ergo, closed loop companies and china import clowns didn’t know and still don’t know how to properly use the gear they sell, they learn from customers.
Yup once you open your oven it changes nearly immediately and the temp swing fracs the bead.
For proper reuse(and you can get months out of beads if practices properly) you extract the moisture, then displace all molecules except dry gas, then vacuum down and store under vacuum.
This is actually a known process for over a decade that’s practiced by professionals in this cannabis field.
Telling people to bake out beads is a 1/3 fractional half ass approach to giving flawed advice.
Thanks guys I do appreciate all the info, and I do agree we should be vacuuming down the recovery coil everyday before starting to run. As well as the more thorough practice of doing a solvent only run followed by a nitrogen sweep.
If beads are still this much of a problem for everyone, why is everyone still using them? We quit using them years ago and made our own solution. Haven’t looked back once.
OP might not have baked at a high enough of a temperature to get all of the water out.
They are pretty easy to replenish, just a pain in the ass and can destroy a compressor if even a little dust gets in there - will scratch the piston sleeve causing leaks.
The way myself and others have recharged beads has been the same. You just never learned other ways to do it. So really your own use case is unique. You just don’t think so because you’ve given advice on how YOU do it for so long you’ve never known otherwise.
Before vacuum you need to blow inert dry gas through it. That’s what actually dries it out. Vacuum is to crease a absence of anything that can affect it.
When you flush with tane or pane the fluid itself is very volatile and wants to displace water violently. You aren’t using it as a fluid fill and flush so to speak. You just fire it through to violently displace as much water as possible. This also removes all dusty and torched terps or anything else is in the beads. Leaving the beads and the pores and construction as if it was new product. Believe it or not using your spare fluids laying around the pressure and hydrocarbon itself basically flushes the entire canister near immediately. We’re talking a second or two is needed. Then the immediate introduction of say argon or nitrogen wants to - now using directional cfm - immediately displace any fluids and misc gasses out. The hydrocarbon remnants do not like to mix or stay present at all when the gas is flushed through. Although flushing dry gas through is done at a very low cfm, it is not done rapidly. The result is constant flowing cfm of dry gas that literally will wipe moisture from beads like a squeegee on a window. You could do it without the hydrocarbon flush but it takes a whole day to properly dry it out. This movement of dry gas as cfm flow through the canister will remove more water in about fifteen minutes than baking out beads in a oven at high temp for hours or all night. This is because at vacuum there generally isn’t a great amount of cfm movement. That’s why it takes longer and moving dry vapor over the beads will rip off any remainder moisture like a vacuum effect. But that’s because it’s flowing directionally.
