Im looking to upgrade to a chilled #100 tank and a 5# column from a #50 tank and a 1# column I currently own the g50c from bvv and that runs my system today.
Im looking at affordability and thinking of getting a touch science DSLB 40/-80 to chill a #100 jacket.
The question lies there, is it more efficient to get a smaller capacity chiller and cool by interior coil? Like per say a 10/-100 or something for the same cost maybe less. Just to condense the solvent for “liquid” push? I currently run my bvv g50c on both jacket and coil and get the best cooling power.
It’s hot as hell in the north east so I am at the mercy of humidity and relatively high room temp. Currently no climate control. Need to put in another service before I install any more condensers…
If I understand your question properly, changing your heat exchanger isn’t likely to make your system run colder if it means using a smaller chiller. It may be more efficient but at the cost of being slow. I suspect you want the big chiller and a lot of insulation.
Also, for not being at the mercy of the weather and local electric provider, you might consider modifying your chiller condenser to be water cooled a la ghetto water tower: relocate your condenser coil to a reservoir with a pump and fan to drop the temp to the wet bulb temp rather than trying to air cool at the dry bulb temp.
In my experience and on my setup, i get better cooling with a coil than with my jacketed tank. Best of both worlds i shut off the cooling to my coil on the jacketed tank and run hot water thru the jacket to get a push if im not using heat wraps
I guess I could have worded better, so it would be smaller but more powerful, my g50c is a 15/-55.
For comparable price 40/-80I can get like a 10/-100 or 20/-100 circulator that has more minimum cooling power to a smaller space like a interior coil than a 40/-80 would (I assume). The 40/-80 would be for a jacket theoretically but that’s where my question was. Which is more efficient to maintain the low temp
I have my tank wrapped awkwardly, but wrapped, due to legs on the tank etc.
Im not comfortable with heat load and calculating quite yet I need to do some more reading to I guess really know the answer
chiller efficiency is about how much electrickery is required to remove a given number of BtU. it’s not about ultimate temperature achieved nor reservoir size.
if you’ve got a target temp in mind, then you compare cooling capacity (probably in kW) at that temperature. assuming they actually hand you that.
So more or less the only information I will need to figure out what BTU removal/kW I need is my target temp & room temp? does humidity play much a factor? I think this may be where I need to go do some reading…
No. I’m saying that when comparing two chillers to each other, the reservoir size is not particularly relevant…what really matters is Btu or kW rating of the chiller at your target temperature.
You absolutely need the volume (mass) of that which you want cooled, along with target and start temps, if you’re actually looking to do this right and calculate how much cooling (kW/hr) you need to hit your target in a given time frame.
Little coil vs big jacket might go both ways at different kW ratings, with the internal coil working better at lower ratings, where loss to the outside of the jacket is an issue, and switching to the jacket as you increase the power, because the coil simply doesn’t have the surface area.
how does that stack up to what @precisionnick suggests you’ll need to get that 100lb of solvent from 20C to -70C (why he uses BTU and oF I don’t know).
Clearly it doesn’t, and I would assume take @precisionnick 's word for this. Is there even a suitable DSLB option for a #100 tank? or am I at the point of building up capital to get a huber unit with proper cooling power? I guess I should go back to touchscience or lab1st and talk with their designer and express my new concerns and see what the BTU removal capabilities are up to par with what I need.
Running a tri-blend 50n/25iso/25pro I dont use but an average of 60-70 f to recover in collection, a tri blend would be a lower BTU/lb formula i assume because of lower boiling point?
thank you @cyclopath you make this community what it is. God bless you.
happy late 4th & 10th!