think you put that spoon at the back of his throat man.
Good-ish
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ok thanks sorry
?!?
Why?
For not answering MY questions?!?
Only looser there would be you.
If you want to apologize for that, by all means.
You’d be better off exploring the answers.
Eg: worst case? You loose EVEYTHING you decarb. How can you mitigate that?
Why would you loose EVERYTHING?
How can you mitigate THAT?
Think about it. Or apologize for not bothering to. Just understand that the latter won’t get you near as far
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Not really into vaping anymore, and im not sure if your talking the same vape stuff.
But I believe terpenes were mostly for viscosity so it would blend easier with a base mix pg/vg.
I also believe standard products for that already exist? I could here in the Netherlands, pricy stuff those, when I was looking at them pre 2020.
You never want to mix anything else in it, specially no weird oils😂 I believe people died from that shit, and then the news started blaming on cannabis.
Might get back to vaping, huge clouds fun😂
(Edit, might be thinking different vaping, cause he said VG, I assumed.)
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The most basic cart is filled with distillate mixed with terpenes. If you use quality distillate (maybe from one of the verified facilities) and good terpenes (preferably derived from cannabis), mix well under light heat (perhaps on a hotplate with a stir bar), you can make some decently nice carts for yourself.
If you aren’t able to obtain distillate you can lightly process your shatter to make it more suitable for use in a cart. Decarbing is a good idea, just do it properly like @cyclopath said. If you are running into viscosity issues you could try dilluting it with distillate of an alternative cannabinoid, or maybe even winterize it?
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At least some comedy for ya @cyclopath
I know you need it as you suppress your frustrations. 
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shit, did I sounds frustrated?
been working too many hrs the last couple of weeks, my body is pushing back. actually wandered away from the problem today. considered stopping by the expensiary for a gram of shatter on the way home so I could add 1k word substitutes, and “yeah, I HAVE actually performed this trick” to my “put THIS in your cart and vape it!”…but I just couldn’t bring myself to buy shatter
@ddss212 even got a “get my wax back on a shoe-string budget” tek if you’re willing to explore the problem a little.
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Hey man, you sounded like anyone else having to explain something that feels trivial.
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I prefer decarb sauce carts to disty carts any day, at least you stand a chance at a balanced terp profile.
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Less work, and taste better…
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thanks guys i appreciate the info. i’ll search some more as well. There’s just so many different things out there i’m not sure what’s correct or not…
i didn’t realize how volatile it is to decarb, i kind of assumed once it’s fully decarbed it’s good to go since its mainly the crystallizing and viscosity of the liquidi guess it all depends how much wax lipids are in the concentrate?
i will try a test decarb tomorrow, sorry but i see a lot of people saying oven decarb with a lid on should be fine, can i ask why you said don’t ever decarb in an oven? I’ve also seen people saying to do it in a sous vide water bath which i have one but not sure if that’s any better or worse
Me and you could jam man.
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haha i’m a complete noob when it comes to this stuff. i live in MD so laws here are kinda weird, can’t really trust these street carts until i can get a medical license, even then they’re so expensive.
i just want to learn to do this for personal consumption 
too many sketchy brands out there
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Ovens suck,
A) because they’re not great at regulating temp in the 100-150C range
B) Air is a lousy heat transfer media. Folks do it with their weed, and that works ok for edibles, but still isn’t particularly reproducible.
Does a number on the volatiles.
Vacuum oven deals with A), and if you were deliberately trying to loose the terpenes before distillation actually turning the vac on is a feature from a couple of angles )agitate & de-volatilization)
Sous vide isn’t horrible, but 100C (boiling water) is faster, and cheap/easy to repeat the temp on…anytime anywhere…so that’s my standard go to.
How close to Boiling will your sous vide go?
I think we’re up at about 120C on our production units.
Not really “volatile”, but does produce a lot of gas. Every molecule of thca looses a molecule of CO2. Gasses take up a LOT more room than liquids or solids. You could follow down this rabbit hole if you wanted to understand more…,
The math has been worked and left laying around.
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Ok, makes sense. i’ll do the double boiler method then, the sous vide machine i have now only goes up to 99C.
It should be mentioned if you go the double boiler route and you choose water as the heat transfer liquid you can only reach a temperature of 200°F(for the water your solution will likely barely reach 180°F) which will also increase the amount of time you need to spend at this temperature to completely decarb your material, you will now be in boiling water which will still require a lid to protect from water mist coalescing into your jar, and with a lid will likely get bounced all over the place since there will be air in the container unless you were working with a decent amount of oil
My preferred method, generally only worth the additional transfer loss, and setup and teardown procedures when working with batches of more than 100g is to use a double boiler where the water has been replaced with oil or sometimes even sand, more commonly referred to as a heat bath, paired with an overhead stirrer, and a thermometer of one sort or another.
Using oil you can achieve temperatures high enough to get your solution up to 250°F which from my experiences has proven to decarb efficiently with very little degradation when paired with agitation. At 250°F and around 500-1000rpm depending on solution depth you can almost completely decarb an entire kg in about 4 hrs time and go from a starting material that tests above 99% THCa to an end product that is over 90% THC and less than 5% THCa.
TLDR: Oil is better than water for decarb baths. For such a small amount I highly recommend a standard oven in a closed jar that isn’t more than half full for about half a day with an ir thermometer pointed at your solution, not your jar, to ensure your solution is actually reaching 250°F and set your oven to whatever temperature gives that reading. If you still see tiny bubbles when back-lit, go longer.
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IMO hotter is ideal ONLY if it’s precise and repeatable (accurate is nice, but not as necessary). Which requires more gear than achieving 100C consistently does.
Totally agree that hotter gets the job done faster and more efficiently. Even agree on the temp.
I’m using a silicone based heat transfer fluid and a heated circulator. Last I checked we were running at 120C.
IF you’re into that sort of thing, it IS pretty simple to make a controlled temp heating bath using a thrift store crock pot (I’ve used a counter top roasting pan) and a cheap PID controller.
The trivial implementation uses a plug and play controller such as https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
With sand or beads in there, there will be a temperature gradient. Using oil has its pros and cons. I personally find that oiling up my glassware then getting it hot tends to decrease its lifespan…
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