Hey guys my D8 has been really nice with isomerization with T5 only issue is that half the run turns pretty red and the rest of the run is almost clear and sometimes a yellowish disty color. I am aware of doing multiple ph’d brine washes before with my disty and then the T5 conversion but is there an easier way to do this. Brine wash is a lot of time. What about redilute first pass disty with ethanol and then mix in T41 or activated carbon then filter off then run isomerization with T5 or possibly do isomerization first then break down in ethanol and mix in a T41 or Activated charcoal and filter and roto for a more color remediation. Maybe @BreakingDabs would have knowledge on this…?
Is the first part or second part red?
I do a first pass cbd disty then toss T5 in boiling flask to isomerize into D8. The first part is red then the rest is either pretty clear or a light yellow disty color. Should I dilute in possibly heptane and run thru magsil?
I’m pretty sure you’re gonna need to wash it after the conversion. Not sure how else you can fix that.
to me that says reflux longer.
first bit is not done converting yet.
…but I’ve not played this trick, and I am a professed Not-A-Chemist (nor a Physicist).
I’m more than willing to play stunt double for an engineer
or slow your distillation the fuck down.
(almost the same thing right?)
again, uninformed, but known to guess well.
not quite the same thing…
if the red is an intermediate, then slowing down is almost like refluxing longer.
if the red is a lower boiling point side reaction, then slower may separate them.
I have never used. T5 for isomerization and think that it s concept of isomerization as at @Photon_noir. Has explained In a previous tread some time back not only based on acid
As is isomerization with neutral AC
Wich is the route I recomend
Using quality sigma alderich AC
I will post my sop end of this month
But I can defenatly recomend using a cls system as reflux unit and dooing the reflux reaction under pressure of at least 60psi
The trick is to find a cls that has thin enough walls to operate an internal spinbar when placed on a magnetic hotplate
Shatterplaters that are concaved often do
I use the galaxy by purgelabs
So collection pot is heated and a sleeved blast pipe as condensor
Have prv s installed
The time is shortened and the yields are useually higher
Are you doing the AC reflux with the cbd distillate suspended in a solvent like heptane or just refluxing the cbd distillate with AC only?
Does adding a low boiling solvent (in comparison to the oil) increase the time it takes to reach completion?
I know when using T-41 with 1kg cbd distillate suspended in heptane and refluxing around 90c it will take at least 4hrs and if you where to just run that 1kg cbd distillate with T-41 in your boiling flask you’d only be looking at an hour or so total run time to distill at 200c.
Main advantage to doing the reflux in heptane with cbd distillate is you can filter through a crc with T-5 and silica 60a after the reflux and before rotovaping/distilling your d8 will come out yelllow instead of the pink/purple you get when running with T-41 or T-5 in the boiling flask.
With AC only no solvent
what purpose does refluxing under pressure serve? You’ve probably said this before, but I have bad memory, does your method produce non-detectable levels of d9?
Interesting concept, looking forward to the sop should you decide to do one.
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@Filterman9 You guys make filters or just re-sell other peoples stuff at a jacked up price?
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Pressure on it s on can isomerize cannabinoids
Dooing reaction s under pressure
Have in almost most cases given me better results and I find it very easy to work with
No need for permanent nitrogen blankets
By pulling vacuum on my vessel I can suck all liquids for reactions straight in the vessel without touching air if needed
Okay guys so I went ahead and took the leap and did some brine washing… I started off with a brine that was about a ph of 7, then went to a pH of 9, then went to a pH of 4 and then finished off with a straight water with a pH of 7 no Saline. With each washing the brine solution turned a pink color which I am sure is pulling out a lot of those colors I was having problems with when I went to the pH of four it stayed clear am I guess was that there was nothing at that pH to pull out, which leads to tell me that most of my colors where in the 729 range. Tomorrow I will run to the rotovap and then the short path I post my results.
I have some material that degraded into D8 from carbon leaking in before decarb. Supposedly. Any suggestions on how to remediate the color and filtration systems for chloropyll removal? Is there a micron size/temperature that would capture all carbon without interference?
Use filter media on top of a 1 micron filter paper
Pics would help