I have written several treatises on the pros and cons of 200 proof ethanol, 190 proof ethanol, denatured ethanol, and isopropanol (which is not ethanol at all).
Every one of those except 190 proof ethanol fails to perform highly selective extraction. They all extract vegetable oil (fats) and epicuticular wax to varying degrees, just like hydrocarbons do… and they keep a lot of those undesirable materials in solution even at very cold temperatures, just like hydrocarbons, but to a lesser degree.
Using 190 proof ethanol at -70°C is perfectly ideal. You still want to use short residence times (brief contact with plant matter) to avoid extracting sugars, proteins, and other deeper cellular materials, but 190p at -70°C is the most selective solvent for cannabis, period.
…and if you absolutely cannot stomach the taxes on potable (drinkably pure) 190 proof ethanol, you can use the new 5% n-heptane-denatured ethanol by adding 4.15% distilled water to it by weight. That will make the 95% ethanol present in the denatured solution into just over 190 proof instead of 200 proof. The small remainder of the needed water for the azeotrope will be absorbed from the air and plant matter (even dry plant matter has a little water available).
Speaking of which, re-proofing any 190 proof ethanol is only necessary if you intentionally add excess water to your resin solution, and then you force that excess water to mix with the azeotrope in your rotovap or other recovery receiving vessel upon recovery. To avoid doing that, perform recovery at 40°C or so until the ethanol azeotrope stops condensing. When you see white cloudiness in the resin, that is the excess water (that was not part of the azeotrope) emulsified with the resin. Drain your receiver of the azeotrope you recovered, then raise the boiler temperature to evaporate that water out of your resin. The water collected after the resin turns dark again (no more white clouds) can be tossed.