Oxygenating H20 for feed

Has anyone tried heavily oxygenating water for the last feed or two of the day? Or possibly micro dosing heavily oxygenated water throughout the night? Maybe 6oz every 3 hours? I’m thinking about introducing a blast of o2 to the root zone in my SOP. I do recirculate every 5 minutes auto magic. But I feel like the bitches want more.

I climb almost 1000 ppm of co2 EVERY night of flower. Lights come on and then bitches start munching the co2 again and it’s down in to 1800 and kicking on an hour after lights on.

Let’s hear that feed back, opinions, or jokes.

For My Hybrid system of deep water and Aeroponics, I never introduce O2 into the system. With the plants making O2 all day and my system pulling that in on the water aeration I seem to have a little issue.

I come from a background in Salt water/ fresh water aquariums where too much o2 in the water is also bad.

I also run an ozone unit which helps immensely with some of the issues of gasses being out of balance

What level of dissolved oxygen are you trying to reach?

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Not really sure…

I did start doing some research, but I wanted to ask the gang too. I did a quick forum search and didn’t come up with alot So I figured id just ask if anyone was trying it.

It seems to offer alot of benifits in our situation, and most botnay. Specifically around salt mobility, anerobic activity, etc.

Peep this…


Most of that seems to be around dirt growing and not hydroponics.

There are some mentions of it but, they seem to talk about o2 in the feed water to the plants.

Arte you speaking to something along these lines

I grow in a 50/50 neutral coco substrate. I crop steer in flood tables, So I have pretty tight control over my root zone. I recently discovered that I can get my root zone to live symbiotically with humate rich algea in the open atmosphere if the conditions are kept perfect. Just continuing to run down the rabbit hole.

Shared this photo a few times already but it speaks 1000 words


Do you have a means to read dissolved oxygen. Well agitated tanks will maintain 90+% of the DO possible at whatever temperature the water is.

Just thinking out loud I think you would have better luck with some sort of continual dosing system. I know the half life for peroxide in water is stupid low, perhaps look in to ozone. I work with a couple of people that have continual ozone setups. I don’t remember reading any crazy DO at them, but I’ll check one next time I’m there.


Is there any problems with O3 (ozone) with our health? Thought I read some things about it releasing harmful particles for humans, maybe bad for plants too?

I thought maybe a ozone generator in a closed room that has nothing living, then air it out a few hours before returning.

Also how can you measure ozone without knowing you are not causing a toxicity, even in small amounts can have potential effects.

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yes depends on the level
I have a sealed area and I have never had issues

  • Ozone air quality index good condition icon (green) Good (0–54 ppb)
    No cautionary statement.
  • Ozone air quality index moderate condition icon (yellow) Moderate (55–70 ppb)
    Unusually sensitive people should consider reducing prolonged or heavy exertion outdoors.
  • Ozone air quality index unhealthy-for-sensitive-groups condition icon (orange) Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups (71–85 ppb)
    Children, older adults, active people, and people with lung disease (such as asthma) should reduce prolonged or heavy exertion outdoors.
  • Ozone air quality index unhealthy condition icon (red) Unhealthy (86–105 ppb)
    Children, older adults, active people, and people with lung disease (such as asthma) should avoid prolonged or heavy exertion outdoors. Everyone else should reduce prolonged or heavy exertion outdoors.
  • Ozone air quality index very-unhealthy condition icon (purple) Very Unhealthy (106+ ppb)
    Children, older adults, active people, and people with lung disease (such as asthma) should avoid all outdoor exertion. Everyone else should avoid prolonged or heavy exertion outdoors.
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I’m at the point of questioning the effects of toxins… Look at the cyanobacteria… Look how much. I have had disastrous results from past blue green algea outbreaks if not immediately dealt with.

This time, it has most definitely been beneficial. I feel like if we can counteract certain process. Nitrite/nitrate, ammonia, toxins etc. There can be a benifits to cyanobacteria in the root zone. Or atleast my evidence is pointing that way.

I use in my big setup a bucket that is stagnating. Like a pond, there is a clean side and a dirty side. as the o2 level drops in that unit the anaerobic processes start to go to work I seal this with a clear top to allow the algae to grow in this unit.
Also, I have a fill unit that has airflow in and out with a sprayer and pumps where gas exchange happens and I test and fill from.
All my units with plants have a DWC unit with a spray unit as well


We have a unit capable of hitting 50ppm DO.

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In saltwater reef tanks nanobubbles were good in a controlled skimmer to remove contamination.
Now allowing that to traverse through the system was a bad thing.
I wonder if it would be helpful to insert O2 into a skimmer device then pump it out into the system saturated for a freshwater system.

If your system goes through a lot of water you could always use pre-fill to mix your nuts and insert O2 in this manner to help really mix it up to dump enriched water into the system daily. Same Idea with Salt water remediation to help keep the flux of PH and salinity in check due to evaporation.


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I use Horiba, I was just curious if op could measure what he’s working on since I rarely see DO meters discussed or in use.


I’m probably going to grab a sensor off atlas scientific and use a raspberry pi. I’m so fucking cheap to pay for off the shelf hardware. Sometimes I cave and do it. What did your meter cost you?


The horiba stuff isn’t cheap. Roughly $600 for pH, ORP and DO in one unit.

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There is a very cheap effective colorimetric test as well, I’ll look for a link. It only goes up to 8ppm though. There’s also a reagent based test for the hanna bench top photometers although honestly I prefer the blue tubes. Extech makes a portable DO probe that is not the most reliable thing in the world but it does the trick and is very easy to use

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This is the kit we use to “reality check” our DO meters:

Might be available cheaper elsewhere.

@FicklePickle do you run a DO controller?

Sure do.