If you take an infected stem, stick it in a test tube there should be:
A. Cloudiness in the water (traheomycosis)
B. Not vloudiness in water (traheobscterioiss)
Or vice versa…
Edit: definetly vice versa
If you take an infected stem, stick it in a test tube there should be:
A. Cloudiness in the water (traheomycosis)
B. Not vloudiness in water (traheobscterioiss)
Or vice versa…
Edit: definetly vice versa
Knowledge of tissue culture would nip that peoblem in a bud (apical meristem) … When dealing with real genetics of real value I dont understand why people dont turn to these resorts
Googled both these words and came up with no results
Sry friend this is a term that is directly translated from my pathology proffesor.
It just means your trachea (xylem or pholem tissues are blockes either by fungus or bacteria).
Now that I think of it its definetly the bacteria that is secteeting cloudy water and not the fungus.
Edit 1: I really though since its derived from latin it would be something not found in litterature of english origin
Edit 2: google scholar will find this for you so edit 1 is now deemed obsolete…
Try scholar…
Hard to say what you are exactly dealing with without taking samples to a lab. It’s most likely fungal. I would say water it with 3 to 5 ml per gallon h202 (35%).
Then find a good compost tea recipe and add a biological additive. ( og bio war, recharge, ect. ) to the tea.
Apply the tea 48 hours after the h202 application.
Make sure not to overwater.
Every time she gets fed give her tea too. A lot.
If you are running organic living soil then just give her straight tea every watering. If you are feeding salts a generous top pour of tea after watering.
This is what I would do to try to save her.
Run compost tea as a preventative next year on the whole plot.
If you are already running tea and having this issue I would clean your setup and shorten your brew time.
We almost killed this plant 3 weeks after transplant due to pythium and fusarium They are salt fed in soilless mix. Tea every watering and she is in full beast mode.
Thank you I appreciate the help . Last year I used The same technique but I was confused about one thing .
Am I supposed to buy 35 percent h202 and use it straight? or mix 3 percent h202 ( the kind that’s at the dollar store or cvs ) with 65 percent water ?
What’s hes suggesting is using the 35% strength h2o2 at a rate of 3-5ml a gal.
So it would be straight to answer your question I believe.
Wow I’m an idiot, guess I probably should have slept last night . I missed the 3-ml 5ml per gallon part . Thank you for pointing it out !!! Assuming then 30-50ish ml of 3 percent per gallon will work to ? ( already have a bunch left over from last year ) .
And also does anyone think adding mycorrhiza will help ?
First thing scope it
Sulfur kills russets easy
If it isn’t a big look at where those branches meet the main stalk and look for rot
Also look for rot on the main stalk
Also look for moles/voles/gophers
Could be a root issue
I think so? I mean it’s a dilution rate you’re trying to achieve, but I can’t say for sure as I’ve never used h2o2 in my garden.
I definitely would get confirmation from someone else before doing it.
Wouldn’t hurt right?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XT57BKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XH94HSP9W0WE3BE5D8AE
This brand is decent enough and not too pricey
You should be good. I’d lean more towards 50 ml per gallon.
Add the myco to the tea and brew to propagate the microbes.
Did it get cold lately?
Looks like cold damage
Thanks @Cloner ive been trying to keep the night time differential as close to the daytime temp (81f) as possible. It’s typically no colder then 73f in the room. I havnt tracked any colder nights lately but it is possible the air handler might be throwing chilly air atop the canopy there. It’s weird. I appreciate the input. Any other things you think it might be? Would overwatering make sense too?
Definitely looking like it could be cold wet roots.
73f is not bad.
Are you feeding with very cold water ?( under 60f)
Just fwiw, I know a tomato grower whose temp problems at the root zone were caused by the cold concrete floor wicking away warmth. He moved his containers up off the floor a little and that fixed the problem. Idk if this relates to you, just a thought.
Thanks all. Nah my input water is hot like 75+f @CBDExportInc and she is on a riser @Autumn_Ridge_Hemp… ima let her dry out and see what happens.
Is she around week 5?