Need some plant knowledge.... issues!

If you take an infected stem, stick it in a test tube there should be:

A. Cloudiness in the water (traheomycosis)
B. Not vloudiness in water (traheobscterioiss)

Or vice versa… :slight_smile:

Edit: definetly vice versa

Knowledge of tissue culture would nip that peoblem in a bud (apical meristem) … When dealing with real genetics of real value I dont understand why people dont turn to these resorts

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Googled both these words and came up with no results

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Sry friend this is a term that is directly translated from my pathology proffesor.

It just means your trachea (xylem or pholem tissues are blockes either by fungus or bacteria).

Now that I think of it its definetly the bacteria that is secteeting cloudy water and not the fungus.

Edit 1: I really though since its derived from latin it would be something not found in litterature of english origin :slight_smile:

Edit 2: google scholar will find this for you so edit 1 is now deemed obsolete…

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Try scholar…

Hard to say what you are exactly dealing with without taking samples to a lab. It’s most likely fungal. I would say water it with 3 to 5 ml per gallon h202 (35%).

Then find a good compost tea recipe and add a biological additive. ( og bio war, recharge, ect. ) to the tea.

Apply the tea 48 hours after the h202 application.

Make sure not to overwater.

Every time she gets fed give her tea too. A lot.
If you are running organic living soil then just give her straight tea every watering. If you are feeding salts a generous top pour of tea after watering.

This is what I would do to try to save her.

Run compost tea as a preventative next year on the whole plot.

If you are already running tea and having this issue I would clean your setup and shorten your brew time.

We almost killed this plant 3 weeks after transplant due to pythium and fusarium They are salt fed in soilless mix. Tea every watering and she is in full beast mode.

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Thank you :pray: I appreciate the help . Last year I used The same technique but I was confused about one thing .
Am I supposed to buy 35 percent h202 and use it straight? or mix 3 percent h202 ( the kind that’s at the dollar store or cvs ) with 65 percent water ?

What’s hes suggesting is using the 35% strength h2o2 at a rate of 3-5ml a gal.

So it would be straight to answer your question I believe.

Wow I’m an idiot, guess I probably should have slept last night . I missed the 3-ml 5ml per gallon part . Thank you for pointing it out !!! Assuming then 30-50ish ml of 3 percent per gallon will work to ? ( already have a bunch left over from last year ) .

And also does anyone think adding mycorrhiza will help ?

First thing scope it

Sulfur kills russets easy

If it isn’t a big look at where those branches meet the main stalk and look for rot

Also look for rot on the main stalk

Also look for moles/voles/gophers

Could be a root issue

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I think so? I mean it’s a dilution rate you’re trying to achieve, but I can’t say for sure as I’ve never used h2o2 in my garden.

I definitely would get confirmation from someone else before doing it.

Wouldn’t hurt right?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XT57BKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XH94HSP9W0WE3BE5D8AE

This brand is decent enough and not too pricey

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You should be good. I’d lean more towards 50 ml per gallon.

Add the myco to the tea and brew to propagate the microbes.

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Anyone got any ideas? Overwatering? I’ve been known to. This pot is super heavy r/n…


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Did it get cold lately?

Looks like cold damage

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Thanks @Cloner ive been trying to keep the night time differential as close to the daytime temp (81f) as possible. It’s typically no colder then 73f in the room. I havnt tracked any colder nights lately but it is possible the air handler might be throwing chilly air atop the canopy there. It’s weird. I appreciate the input. Any other things you think it might be? Would overwatering make sense too?

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Definitely looking like it could be cold wet roots.

73f is not bad.

Are you feeding with very cold water ?( under 60f)

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Just fwiw, I know a tomato grower whose temp problems at the root zone were caused by the cold concrete floor wicking away warmth. He moved his containers up off the floor a little and that fixed the problem. Idk if this relates to you, just a thought.

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Thanks all. Nah my input water is hot like 75+f @CBDExportInc and she is on a riser @Autumn_Ridge_Hemp… ima let her dry out and see what happens.

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Is she around week 5?