We’re you using the 2 part system?
My buddy just posted this in another forum:
Here is a 1-part nutrient like FF Grow Big Hydro. It needs Cal-Mag at transition and probably a late bloom booster.
I always try to do things as simply (and cheap!) as possible. Here is a 4-3-5 one-part fertilizer recipe suitable for hydroponics, soil or soilless. It is a clone of Fox FarmGrow Big Hydro, Skunkwerks RX or Cogos Original complete. You can get the ingredients at Custom Hydro Nutrients. Here is the recipe:
Potassium Nitrate KNO3 285 grams
Calcium Nitrate (Tetrahydrate) Ca(NO3)2.4H2O 285 g
Magnesium Nitrate (Hexahydrate) Mg(NO3)2.6H2O 187 g
Ammonium Monobasic Phosphate (NH4)H2PO4 75 g
Pekacid 27 g
Chelated Micros 18 g
N (NO3-) 123.804
K 149.665
P 36.01
Mg 23.416
Ca 63.883
S 0.01
Fe 2.092
Zn 0.16
B 0.519
Cu 0.04
Mo 0.024
Na 0
Si 0
Cl 0
Mn 0.798
N (NH4+) 12.066
Use ~1 tsp./gallon as a raw salt. If you want to make a stock solution, add 1.5L DI/RO/distilled water to a clean and food safe jug. Add the salts. Top up to 3L. Use 9-12ml/gallon.
It is a 10:1 NO3-:NH4+ nitrogen ratio, so the pH should be very stable. The cal-mag ratio is perfect, but low. Add a high quality cal-mag supplement like Growmore Flowering Cal-Mag if you run into issues. The sulfur is low to get it into one bottle as a 1-part fertilizer, so if you have any other issues or have hard tap water, use a high quality fulvic acid like Mr. Fulvic.
I’ve been using a pre amended organic living soil for 2 years only adding water, agt50, coconut water powder and a tea here and there. But I want to compare with salts I ordered the jacks part a and b to try out.
Here’s some organic mimosa I finished up a couple weeks ago.
Looks great man.
I’m an organic soil guy too. However, I have been debating trying out one of my outdoor plots as a organic/salt hybrid grow. See how it goes…
Ive always had the best of all worlds by mixing teas and other organic inputs with salt based inputs fwiw
My favorite COCO recipe…
It belongs to the streets now ![]()
18/6 Veg > 20-10-20 (1.0 EC)

12/12 Bloom > 10-30-20 (1.6 EC)

Flush 2 weeks with RO
Costs about $50 per 5000 plants (~ $0.01 per plant)
PlantProd is great. I use their chelated micros. They are the crossover between cannabis/hemp and traditional Ag along the lines of Growmore and JR Peters.
What do you guys think of earth juice sea blast?![]()
I only had one experience with Earth Juice when I was running the hydro store. A sales rep came in selling “IRT JOOT” and he kept on yelling it. We had no idea what company he worked for. He dropped off product flyers before he left and we were all like “Oh, EARTH JUICE!”
EDIT: It looks like they have stepped up their product line over the years. Sea Blast is their soluble line. It probably acts quicker than most organic inputs. Earth Juice is also from Chico, CA, just like Sierra Nevada beer.
Ok that makes sense. I picked up some nice trim from a farm in that area and they said that is what they used for there base nutrients. There outdoor could pass for good greenhouse easy.
“Moar calcium. Moar gypsum. I want to see atleast 5 types of calcium in there. Your gonna get them started off with lots calcium then bring your phosphorus up at the end of veg. Push the calcium really hard at the beginning of flower and bring the phos down. There’s a root flush at the beginning of flower, calcium is only uptaken by fresh root hairs. I’m telling you calcium is the only nutrient deficiency you can’t recover from, don’t drop the ball, drop the gyp. Then bring your phos back up.”
“Cannabis is a c4, that means it uptakes carbon through its roots. This is why you can never ever have fire hydro. There’s no way to get the carbon, or enough calcium. Btw did you put gypsum on today.”
“I tried their kush, it’s fire. I guarantee they have high manganese in their water. Everything is iron toxic. If you don’t have 1:1 manganese:iron your fuckong yourself, you’ll never have fire. That gyp your using better be bright white, you know that pink shits full of iron. Whats your iron to manganese ratio?”
“Did you run the AA at 7.1 on that mix. How do you even know what’s available?? If you don’t know what’s the available how fuck do you know how to feed. It’s all about the numbers. Im telling you Spectrum says they do the AA at 7.1 but I’m telling you their full of shit.”
Who am I?
Hahaha
If you know you know. #theslownickelway
Smartest guy I’ve met hands down.
@Slownickel is here on Future. I really look up to him as an agronomist.
Oh cool. Haven’t talked to him in awhile. Good to know he’s on here.
Yeah lot of respect. All around good guy. Can listen to the dude talk for hours without getting bored. Gotta record the convos though cause he drops way to much knowledge for my head to absorb.
All of those quotes make me uncomfortable lol
Por que?
I’ve had calcium excess/antagonism issues especially using EDTA, if I used 1:1 Fe:Mn it would be toxic levels of Mn, and I’d like to think we grow fire hydro lol. Just, different approach I guess
Not sure what issues your referring to. But you need to feed more when you push calcium. And if yoir feeding isn’t perfectly tuned you will get deficiencies of other nutrients. You need to test your soil once a week and adjust accordingly.
Why use edta?
How do you know you’d have toxic manganese? Have you tried that ratio and had problems.
My post was meant to be an over the top characterization that doesnt at all represent how he talks.
I totally agree that everybody has different approaches to producing fire. You know skinning cats and all.
I am sure your hydros top shelf.
I will add though that my plants have never been healthier than when I was following his advice. And all the flower I’ve tried from people he’s coached that really followed his directions, is far and away the best smoke I’ve experienced, more nuanced much deeper high. These people were also getting more than double market price and moving flower from their bm grows into some of the biggest dispos in Cali. He’s definitely worth following, take what works and leaves the rest.
But really not trying to start a my way of growing is better convo. Just sharing some info I’ve found helpful in a comedic way (I think
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Edit:auto"correct"
For some of our mixes when we calculate an amount of Ca that is in excess of what we can supply with calcium nitrate, we have used Ca EDTA but it’s much more bioavailable and can cause all sorts of issues. Especially with other EDTA chelated nutrients. Trying calcium acetate now but there’s not a lot of soluble forms of calcium. FYI we’re running bare root rdwc so gypsum is out
We have done tissue analysis and been quite high with Mn at our current rate. We try to run Mn, Cu and Zn as high as possible to reduce microbial growth so we try to run it pretty high but we’re nowhere near 1:1.
Obviously antagonism between elements/ions has a lot of impact. A compromise between my method and yours would probably be worse than either alone. When I said I was uncomfortable I meant only that it was very contrary to what we do but I don’t want to confuse that with saying you’re wrong at all. After all, getting outside your comfort zone is how you grow, right?
I agree with everything you said.
You are very limited with calcium options in hydro and calnit is the only good one I am aware of. Some less aggressive chelates might work, or something like Calcium Citrate Malate, but I have never run hydro so I really got no clue.
Compromises are never good.
Keep growing ![]()
Edit: In hydro you probably have it much easier with the manganese:iron. Most organic ammendments are over the top with iron. For example had some Malibu compost test at 19000ppm iron. Looked through over 300 compost suppliers to find one that wasn’t insanely iron toxic.
Best way to go about feeding a plant is to read the plant. There isn’t an “nutrient calculator” or and exact ML of this or that per gallon you have to follow/feed.

