ISO 3" Triclamp endcap/lid with sight glass for diamond miner

I need a lid for 3 inch diameter diamond miner…preferably hemispheric and needs a triclamp connection for a tc viewport or an actual 3 inch inline sight glass plus vacuum port

Like this in 3" and maybe a hemi lid so the sights could out at <45° angle… but I can only find 4" ones being sold online

If anyone has one lying around hmu… my goal is to not have to wait to have one custom made by my welder homie…he’s been super busy lately

Smallest off the shelf hemi I have found was 4”


Hfs had 3" at one point


I couldn’t find them in 3” last time I looked.

Did bother getting them fab’ed either.

Considered starting with a 3”-> 1” conical reducer, but ONE sight glass is essentially worthless…

If you find them let us know.

Glacier has these. You’ll need new gaskets. Don’t know if they have them. I get mine fab’ed locally.

Edit: just went out to my car & checked the replacement silicone gaskets that arrived about an hr ago. Would cost a bit to get ptfe gaskets machined…

But glacier has them in viton


Not sure how I feel about these, but they have the built in light style.


Doesn’t leave much room for other ports…

…and nobody seems to change/charge the batteries.

Having an 18650 go thermonuclear in the tube that close to the goods also seems like a risk one might best avoid.

I actually carry one of those flashlights in my pocket. It gets HOT. Great light but not one that should on a hydrocarbon rig of any sort, and probably not an ethanol rig either.


That’s from Glacier right? I’m not using solvent so that’s not a bad idea.

I’m just A. decarbing rosin and getting tired of leaky jars and B. decarbing THCA and need to get deeper vac than an oven allows to lower boiling point of residual (non-solvent) volatiles.

vacuum does NOT lower decarb temperature…

it might shorten decarb TIME, mainly by removing your residual solvent (possibly terps in the case of “THCA”) so that shit will actually heat up.

this has been discussed MANY times.

they found decarb to be “first order” or “pseudo first order”, which the wizard would have us believe means le chatelier’s principle does NOT mean sucking makes it go faster.

Same same. I haven’t fully explained what I’m doing bc it’s a bit of R&D. Decarb is the coverall term I’m using. I should have said lower the boiling point of residual terpenes and flavanoids…anyways… DM me.

And again…no solvents involved


obsfucting your actual goal one thing.

deliberately typing horseshit that we as a group have been actively trying to dispel for years because every other new kid thinks that vacuum will lower their decarb is NOT how this place is supposed to work.

you KNOW better.

@Sidco_Cat did NOT.

Decarboxylation under Vacuum?

I haven’t ventured much outside the rosin thread for a long time. I was unaware of the legacy of misinformation behind the topic. I see now the issue with my wording… allow me to edit my language and accept my apology. I meant no harm!

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thank you dear. I’ll go medicate.

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I really opened a can of worms with that one. Ok…so @Killa12345… you have 3 inch inline sights right? pressure tested to what psi?

Chiggity check your phone. I has one


Much luve

@cyclopath check your dm

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LOTs of folks absolutely convinced vacuum will lower temperature.

it’s about activation energy.
which is pretty much ALL about temp.

yeah temp and pressure ARE related. but it would be INCREASING pressure one would expect to increase the fraction of molecules that had the required energy, not DECREASING it.

what’s your target range? so long as you’re not swinging the temp too far, or going much above 25PSI, you should be ok.

and by ok I mean, it doesn’t matter who else pressure tested it, YOU need to test it up to 3 or 4 x your working pressure (repeatedly, to failure, if you plan to sell them!), and install an appropriate PRV at 20-30% over “working”.

assume that the nuts have all moved since it was correctly assembled. loosen them, then very deliberately apply even compression (tighten outside nuts), followed by locking (tighten the inside nuts).

in this case I would recommend using a something along the lines of a 15 gal beer keg or 50 gal drum filled with water to slow and contain any shrapnel you might generate.

you can also fill the glass itself with water, and pressurize with air from there to decrease the energy available to any sharpnel (compressed gas is essentially a spring. smaller spring == less dangerous glass bomb).

you only need to “leak” test up to (just below) your prv set point (air in tank of water). then take it up a hair and pop the prv. note where it seals again. confirm it’s repeatable (3x).

see: Hydrotesting.

edit: …and yeah, that rant assumes solvent. It wasn’t really aimed at YOU…

i thnk they are only rated for 115 psi. ive seen them go way higher but thats the actual rating


for reference for anyone using these with hydrocarbons and a recovery pump:

a CMEPOL will take them up to 350 if you let it.

a trs-21 will aim at 450PSI and not quit till it gets there.

I’ve left equipment in locked rooms with those, or the original Caresaver which would actually CYCLE at ~450PSI. you could tell if it 'sploded before 450, AND if it was leaking. from the safety of “way the fuck over there”.


Uh oh. What did I not know what I was talking about this time?

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You’ve seriously been on one lately dude, whether it’s people asking stupid repeat questions or discussing old topics it’s really not that serious and people 100% don’t need you jumping all over them because of it, take a break and recharge your batteries, this place is supposed too be about open topic discussions not getting told off by a long time user for asking a question or having a simple misunderstanding :v: