So close but not quite perfect… maybe I need to add some t5 to my mix
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It helps if u do everything right in the beginning like dry your gas, chill your solvent, let column sit frozen for a bit before starting…the lighter colored the solution is before u scrub…the easier it is to get to clear in the end
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Interesting… did you try Winterizing this rapid cold butane stuff with cryofreezer cold 190 proof ethanol afterward?
@NWMoonBerries The yield is variable depending on the method used. If your bosses don’t have any budget for R&D, then they will not advance until everyone else is doing it already. They will always be left playing catch-up instead of leading the market.
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Rnd is all I do
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Clear to me is all hype really…I like it and its eye appealing and all but tbh my fav is that yellow like how @thesweetlife just made…if u check my ig you’ll see I make that color alot…what u guys should be aming for after making clear is being able to dial in the color of choice perfectly #50shadesofyellow
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From bottom( of filter stack) to the top. What goes in first and in order?
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Ok .I finally got a chance to try some celite and activated carbon pressed into a filter plate at bottom of the column. Using r600a in passive recovery this is what I got from outdoor trim.
This is what it looked like before
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Boom shalalaka! I think your on to something!
order yourself some sillica 60, magasil, t-5 clay,
and t41 clay and start messing around!
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Most definitely, it is on my wish list that is a mile long, I have to pick and choose the battles of what to purchase. Long and slow process of getting it done , but it is slowly getting there
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Got to try some of this tek from @Soxhlet & @Indofab last night… You guys are killing it! Anxious to see what engineering you will bring to this industry.
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Also got to try it
It got contaminated by a dirty dab tool pretty quickly, but it was like a nice terpsolate when it arrived.
Good work all in this thread! Let’s work on getting a rough draft of the SOP established so we can then get it formatted and available
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I would love a crc please DM me how to get one! (New to forum and haven’t found the dm button yet 
)
Also would love to get a prepackaged so I could test it straight up if possible.
A few questions, what is the average flow rate you are seeing, and the pressure drop? Also what is the falloff for color removal, in terms of biomass ran through each filter? Replace every 20#, 50# or 100# on average?
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Hi there! Great feed! I definitely don’t come from a technical background but you simplify the manufacturing process well. Are there any personal tips you can give regarding your CRC and I how I can make one. Any tips on sourcing the materials used in your CRC would also be much appreciated!
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What filer media did you use? Was this inline through the extractor?
I have tried to summarize and consolidate the pertinent info from this massive thread for easy
refeU5%aBUtuU5m9Cs59DmXyrall.
stikkyrice
Not sure what ratio you were using but I did 2 part silica, 2 part t-5, 1 part Magsil.
I did 3 tests and added another measurement per run, with the last run looking the best with the most media.
Three part clay, three silica, one magsil, one pvpp, and one and a half celite.
I did. I used more of the major players which I felt would cake up (clay and silica) and added more to the mix of the pvpp and magsil. And added some celit to help, too. But still used more on top to aid in flow. I’m certain that helped.
You think that Pvpp is a big player in that concoction of media? It’s just the one thing I don’t have on hand.
Folks have had success with inline BHO filtration with both our silica 60 and uniform(prewash) carbon. I’d be interested in seeing someone use activated alumina as well.
E: using a sock-in-sock style you can layer absorbents with filter socks. Put carbon in the first sock and silica 60 in the second.
I think I can setup the 3x12 spool instead of the 6 or 4 plates. I can use filter stacks to prevent anything getting through. What’s your take on blending everything and using the summit silikate pulver stuff. Basically de/celite. Underneath to catch everything and up top to help flow?
I have some activated alumina. Also, I’m interested in getting some silica from you.
We have minimum order sizes now since we’ve brought on a bunch of retailers, but our pricing on 15kg+ is hard to beat if you can use that much.
Hit up the Team at Sales@Carbon-Chemistry.com to get an account going and receive a catalog.
If the minimums are too much the sales team will find the nearest distributor for you.
edit: GLG discounts DO apply to bulk ordering so don’t forget to mention membership!
I don’t really feel like mixing everything up is much of a benefit but I’m not ruling it out. Our T41 has both clay and carbon so blending may very well be a good idea as long as the particle size is homogenous.
Using a rough media filter like alumina, uniform carbon, or DE is a good call as it will help with any fines (otherwise you should dry run with hydrocarbon and media to wash fines out prior to running)
As an alternative methodology, we normally suggest stacking the medias based on what they strip with tougher colloidal contaminants(micro lipids, pesties, color, moisture, etc) either first or last. You could use something like this
(https://www.bestvaluevacs.com/5-micron-stainless-steel-sintered-filter-disk-with-viton-o-ring.html 18) to separate layers.
As a side note, I would love to see MagsilPR used as the final(bottom) layer to evaluate pesticide absorption in BHO process. It would be last layer as you would want the other contaminants held back first, improving oil/solvent/MSPR interaction.
Photon_noirVerified Consultant
Cotton depth filtration, as I always use with alkane based cannabis extractions. The key is finding the right color removing media and applying it properly. This particular method was funded by my research benefactors, so they essentially purchased exclusive rights to use it. I can say you folks in this thread are getting warmer, though!
Photon_noirVerified Consultant
Regular old 100% cotton balls have never given me any problems… no residue, no dissolving, and certainly no pesticides. I wrote about this on another thread at some length to explain why, but suffice it to say that any pesticides used on cotton crops do not follow into the processed cotton whatsoever… at least none of the generic or name brand cotton balls I have ever used.
T5 is neutral pH bleaching clay that is marketed as an activated filter aid…also specifically designed to catch heavy metals.
T41 is acidic bleaching clay with 10% Norit carbon added. This clay can improve clarity, color, odor, and is an acidic phase to use before magsilPR(alkaline phase) for pesticide remediation.
Both clays have a majority particle size of 60micron and are designed to avoid clogging, in comparison to natural bentonite.
This was 20lbs of biomass, ran through a 3”x36” filter column. 1/3 summit achromatizing clay, 1/3 magsil PR, and 1/3 sandurguten silicate.
Silica 60, t-41 clay, and activated alumina on their way.
looks great.
what is sandurguten silicate
Some fancy summit word. It’s a powder they sell.
Do we have final filter media set up that come up w that clear… Or at least a rough one for now
In my lil column.
From top to bottom
Celite (the stupid summit stuff that’s basically the same)
Activated alumina
Silica
T5
Bleaching clay
Celite.
In my dewax chamber is pvpp again. I still want to investigate this one more
Our Hybrid Scrub (Dry/Wet) suggests temps of 90c but you could try 100c and reduce total mixing time.
Heat(90-100c)
Add Adsorbent
Mix for time
Cool to ~40c
Add carrier solvent
Filter adsorbent out
We consider that the Go-To for things like carbon and clay scrubs. You can also try sonicating before filtration…seen some interesting results with that.
Made this using only celite and b80
I noticed the clay is more effective if I put it in my vac and heat it for a few hrs prior to use
Winterize, celite, clay, then celite again, pass through cake a second time for extra effect…and no prob now that were all on the same level I feel more comfortable opening up
No it just passes through…The clay only makes contact for maybe 60 sec…I stalled before and noticed no difference…added heat…also no difference…passed twice through same cake…that increased effectiveness
Interesting. I can make a stack right after my dewaxing filter and have it all happen right there…
Also I noticed better color retention when I used more butane to increase dilution ratio
Ended up building a makeshift filter stack to try this tech out while I wait for the real thing. I think I need to use a little more powder for the volume I am running through it.
The darker stuff is the same material that I ran yesterday and the lighter stuff has was ran through the filter. Yield loss seems negligible and terps are definitely lighter but still pretty good.
I’m running 20lb columns with 60lbs of solvent then reducing to ~25 lbs in a reaction chamber before filtering through 4 inch filter stacks. I’m not using any nitrogen assist just a hot vapor loop. I only needed 25 psi differential to push it through the filter at a decent pace.
Rad. What mixture did you use?
Top filter stack was left empty to disperse the solution. Then I used t-41 mixed with alumina in the second, silica 60 in the 3rd and t-41 in the 4th.
About to try again with 3 stacks of t-41 and 2 stacks of silica 60 and the reducer full of silica 60
So I tried to pack my 4 inch to 2 inch reducer with silica 60 because I was out of stacks and the whole thing clogged up. In the end I had back pressure at 60 psi and the collection chamber in full vacuum with not even a drop coming out.
Luckily I had a pressure release at the top and was able to disassemble it mid run. One of my 2 inch mesh gaskets was completely clogged.
I learned my lesson and will only stick to packing the filter stacks now but I’m still not getting color as good as some of you. I have a 4x24 column that I’m seriously considering filling with silica
Photon_noirVerified Consultant
Approaching 1000 posts on this thread! Everyone loves the trash to treasure business model, which is why I developed the color polishing tek in the first place… turning greens to golds and shit to shatter! @Waxplug1, man that mention of B80 takes me way back, and yes sir, definitely vacuum bake the crap out of any dirt or charcoal one plans to use for extraction and especially for distillation processes! But what’s really interesting is how important intercalated and other waters of hydration are to the decoloring activity… vacuum heat drying is good, but, maybe surprisingly, too much calcination, especially in air, isn’t. There are so many variables in clays, it can take years to get it just right…
Photon_noirVerified Consultant
@Soxhlet Yeah, it can taste off if the trim is mixed strains or at least a funky strain flavor combination, but using single strain trim, even sun leaves and such, generally yields decent flavor when it’s done correctly. It has that smooth hit and less astringent flavor similar to cold ethanol extracted shatter, due to some fat and terpene (mainly terpene oxides) removal.
@sonicgardens See above. @ExTek90 is technically correct… you cannot dilute your product by adding a bit of flavoring and retain the exact same cannabinoid concentration/potency. However, a little flavor goes a long way, so the reduction in potency will be no different than if it was simply a higher terpene extract.
@ExTek90 It is quite possible to turn what would otherwise come out soft or sappy into a stable shatter or pull & snap, using proper extraction and polishing methods, while still retaining the original flavor, but safely subdued terpene levels for smoother hits, as described above. The final purge methods are also important for good consistency and flavor.
@Killa12345 Your low apparent wax content from your dewaxer is reasonable with properly chilled extraction solvent and no unnecessarily long soak time. Many times folks extract too warm or long, which pulls more fat and wax, and/or they overdo the dewaxing step, causing some of the THCa to crash out with the waxes. If your solvent is sufficiently cold (-40 to -60°C) and contact time is sufficiently brief (use colder solvent for bigger columns due to inherently longer contact time due to longer filling time), then your extraction will be cleaner and more selective. In fact, dewaxing isn’t even necessary if you really dial in the extraction methods.
@Dred_pirate Regardless of the temperature/contact time used, ALL alkane extractions pull epicuticular wax and vegetable oil from the herb, so even if you do inline dewaxing and find a way to completely decolor the resin from such an extraction, unless you also found a way to selectively soak up those large fat & wax molecules without also soaking up your cannabinoids, Winterization in cold 190 proof ethanol at some point is still essential to getting clean distillate.
@Waxplug1 Indeed, the yields on super colorless resin appear rather dismal, and one can certainly lose some cannabinoids in decoloring, but proper pre-treatment of your polishing materials, tuning for an acceptable final color, will mostly mitigate those problems. As you know, a lot of people don’t even want colorless stuff because they think it’s fake or whatever, not even realizing what a low-yielding expensive batch it was!
HI folks - I’ve had success using Pall AKS 7 carbon impregnated media for color removal.
This eliminates the need for loose carbon.
I work for Pall, based in Portland, OR. If anyone wants any info, please let me know.
Keep up the great work all.
If you can do that with bentonite and silica 60, you’ll have my attention, and probably a lot of industry consumers. Especially, if you can make it so they fit our filter plates to be used inline with our existing systems… Food for thought.
We’ve been working with Ertel to make filter sheets with our media, but I’d love to work with Pall too.
Here is a pic of a slab. we got these results using silica and magsil on some fresh material. The silica and mag both had discoloring in the medium.
That looks awesome. You used the magsil fryer filter stuff, or full on magsil pr?
Magnesol. No pr some cheap magsil I got from HFS
I’ve been using The magsil sandwiched between two layers of silica. Today I added a couple tablespoons of t-41 to my filter stack to see if I can remove dark color from good sugar trim that was stored improperly.
If there’s is a bad flavor u can add carbon then remove with celite after u turn clear…add terpenes for increased flavor…or add thca for increased potency right before recovery…just saying it can be done but I wouldn’t go that route…helps to know what are the options
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Pics did not show up…
What were you trying to ask?
Yes. And that wasn’t his batch, that was from sexy @Soxhlet. What was your combination on that run?
@Quality if you have filter plates underneath your column, you can add more to give you a filter bed and layer a list of adsorbents that we have used, press them tightly and evenly. And you should be able to get a standard run through there easily. If you have any questions on how to set it up, we can definitely try to help
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Here are my test results from my filtered run next to the unfiltered run. We have always called our filter the #chlorophylter. Sorry if its too jumbled to understand im not good at uploading and editing all this from my phone. Will get it properly organized and posted to my ig soon. Just got these so bare with me. On another note its the strongest run weve made testing at 93% for bho… thats normally distillate numbers…
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Love your work and openess with test results 
@HaggardShitFuck
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