Roofing tar for a new world!
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Yes !!!
Haha, that or asphalt that sticks to your tires on warm days!
I am switching to two pumps now. One 12 cfm for heads, then welch pro8. I have wanted to know what vac levels to expect to go to, but i am so new to the game that my novice mind doesn’t know what should be logical yet. The lowest I’ve seen my system go is around 150 micron. But even empty i get really bad results. It always differs depending on how much glass is connected. Still contemplating using two heads so i can remove to heads through a separate path.
Assemble your apperatus, get a party tank of helium and attach a hose it it. Pull vacuum on your apperatus and note the reading on the vac guage. Now blow a gentle stream of helium on each of the joints watch your vac guage. If it moves there is a leak at that joint. Make sure it is sealed up tight, this is where good glassware with reground joints come in handy. Empty you should be able to pull your apperatus close to what the vacuum pump is rated to do.
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May I suggest from years now of gleaning boiling flasks hehe and such how to get that?
Disolve it in methanol which is a good way to clean the flask too. I can almost guarantee that most things left in that flask do not like hexane and do not really care much for methanol either except when warm or hot. Cannabinoids are miscible in both hexane and methanol. Once it is disolved and cooled to room temp do the steps in this link and you should be able to crash out most stuff except cannabinoid which can then be tossed into the next batch. The hexane will evap off at room temp and there should not be much anyway.
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I remember someone saying you could use iso the same way instead of helium. I might be mistaken. I’m going to try helium as soon as i get a chance. Been waiting for summit to get lab stands, but i found some others that should suffice due to time constraints. They were adamant about the “laminar” setup being supported properly so that the joints wouldn’t crack under the weight.
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Yeah , gotta clamp glass in a rigid manner.
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I got my vac down to 325. Still looks the same, run time is still to long. I’m not running dynalene yet, so i can’t push the condenser past 90c. Things are not coming out as clean as i was hoping for. I think I need that dynalene 600. I’ve been getting solid coil since I hit main though. Shit is still red. I guess i really do need a sep funnel and some degumming going.
Are you using any bleaching earth or carbon in your process? What is your goal ,Water clear? Best first pass ext?
Hey I wanted to chime in here because I’m dealing with similar issue. I’m getting perfect color in the head, but then maybe 20 minutes into body I’ll start bringing the red over.
I winterized in a regular chest freezer 3 times and carbon/de scrubbed it as well.
Lower temp winterize?
Boiling flask temp spikes?
Shitty vac depth?
I’m using Welch duoseal…
Thanks
Edit: I wanted to add that it looks like the oil dropping down the cow looks fine. It even forms a layer of yellow color on top of the red until it melts into the rest of the ball flask. This is oxidation?
When you get your volitiles off your vaccum level will improve, lower your mantle temp slightly at that point. Closely monitor your head thermometer and use your data logger to look at the data trends in your run. You may just need to cut your fraction and move on.
So, I’m not using any bleaching media. I did try cbleach before, but it didn’t yield the results I wanted and gave me issues with silica getting through the filter. I got degumming enzym, but due to some restrictions and being told to use it differently for what the instructions say, I haven’t got a sep funnel or heptane yet. So it’s just been winterized. I also ran a frankenstein setup this time, cause I’m waiting for my lab stands to get here so i can setup the “laminar” path. So this run was also highly experimental, using only one head. My goal with this is getting the best first pass I can. The best test said 94% noids, with 90% thc. I haven’t put it in a cartridge yet. So the color might be better than expected. I’m using two pumps, one 12 cfm for volatiles and 5.3 cfm welch pro8 for the main. I also ran it at 205 c, cause I wasn’t hitting main at lower temps and i think i was staying at 155 on the mantle to long before moving on. Vac level was around 325, when i hit main 3 hours into the run. I also used the summit key in the first pass too, so i was pretty much renegading this run, not following procedure at all. It doesn’t smell much tho, so that was good. Again, i haven’t even done 10 runs yet. So I’m very much still learning the basics.
I’m aiming to copy breaking dabs hot condenser sop in the end to force the red pass the flask, but without the right setup the reds condense and drop into the flask.
I would argue to say that the “reds” are a higher boiling point than the lighter “yellow” ones. Your condenser may be a touch too hot allowing the “good” cannabinoids to pass without condensing.
I usually find the color will darken toward the end of the main body. My “reds” come off at the end of my main body. What is your head thermometer temp in the main body? Mine is usually around 160c at the head thermometer when I rotate the cow for the next fraction.
I’m using open source steel 2l with the welch duoseal. I’m having all sorts of issues with vacuum and temp control.
i don’t get my body until mantel is 210c and my head temp is 200c.
Does this explain my red plague?
based on my experience…yes.
do you have a decent vac gauge?
do you know how deep the pump will go when isolated?
how about your rig when empty?
if your pump goes lower than your empty rig, you need to find the leaks.
if your pump doesn’t hit 50 microns when isolated, you need to address the pump.
if you can’t tell 50microns from 500, you need a better gauge.
interwebs suggest that the ultimate vac on a Welch duoseal should be in the 0.1micron range. so if you can’t hit 10microns on the isolated pump, you probably want to invest in a rebuild.
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I bought their cheapest system and figure once I get the hang of it I would start upgrading components as I go.
i have a this gauge. i’ve never seen it below 300m, but i don’t belive I have leaks. I need to do some real testing to vacuum isolate issue.
As far as temperature issues I’m thinking it’s the shitty thermocouple that came with the shitty mantel. It’s like 2.5 inches off bottom of the flask.
Yeah, as i mentioned, this run was very experimental and i used the summit key instead of the temp probe, so i must confess I don’t know what temps my head was at. I’m starting to think I’m going to high on the mantle. I was mainly looking for the coiling to start before i switched cows. Due to me not thinking clearly about the hot condenser forcing things to condense in the cow, my main flask got contaminated and i had to switch the entire cow once I hit main around 205c on the mantle.
300microns is definitely too high.
the gauge is probably sufficient.
I’d start by isolating the pump and making sure it comes close to it’s rated 0.1micron.
controlling mantle temp with a probe that isn’t in contact with the mantle is also very problematic. sounds like it’s not even in the puddle at some points.
some mantles have an internal thermocouple as well, and if yours does, using it will be a definite improvement. which mantel do you have?
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This POS (newer versions availble on ebay for half the $… another thread, another day.)
And yes, it’s not even in the puddle for half the run.