Tonight I’m drenching in triazicide. I have anxiety about not doing anything about this lol. To be continued
I think I just needed someone to kick me in the ass and give me direction. Thanks for being so forward 
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Soil drench is just watering as usual. Soil drench is the key word that been used since I can remember.
Yes, promis is discontinued. Look for an active ingredient called imiclapradid and go from there.
ive done triazicide dunks on mines with no help against ra’s. hopefully urs isnt as resistant.
that being aaid, if ur gonna go at em go hard, make sure u get em good bc the survivors will become resistant
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I’m hoping for the best. Treated yesterday with triazicide at 11ml/g
I’ve dealt with root aphids on a larger scale before and I can add a few things to the conversation here.
First off none of the pictures you’ve posted so far look like root aphids. As others have noted, the mite creature you have captured is most likely a beneficial soil mite Hypoaspis Miles so nothing to worry about there aside from killing them with the Triazicide. (RIP).
Secondly, the fungus gnat larvae arent a major issue and their increased presence in the pot mostly lends credence to the theory that the poor plant is just overwatered. This is still the only plant in the greenhouse exhibiting these symptoms right? One thing about root aphids is that they are going to spread incredibly fast; mostly because they can produce a winged form when their population is high in one place in order to spread to another. See below:
These are going to look slightly like fungus gnats, but the main difference is a pair of “Cornicles” emerging from the back of the winged aphid, and any aphid really, which is one of the easiest identifiers. Cornicles look like little exhaust pipes coming out of their ass, best way i can descibe it.
You’re more likely to see the root aphids on the surface of the soil, as well as clustering around the stem itself and slightly up the stem stuck onto sticky bracts or any flower material thats lower on the plant.
Good preventative treatment for root aphids include beneficial soil predators such as Hypoaspis Miles (RIP) or Dalotia Coriaria; I prefer Coriaria since they are easy enough to rear on your own, if you would like to know how just drop me a DM. In addition to insect predators you should also make use of Beneficial Nematodes, I used a mix combination of Steinerma Feltia and Steinernema carpocapsae and they help prevent not only root aphids but also other soil pests from establishing a population.
When you have to go the chemical control route, please please please do not use Imidacloprin. I’ve seen a few comments recommend that but its a systemic insecticide and will unequivocally remain in the flower after harvest even if you clone off the plant and grow that out. That’s why you can’t use that shit in any situation where you get tested for pesticides.
When you need to hit them with the gas, go for an Azadirachtin product. I like to use Molt-X specifically for root aphids but also as a deterrent for other soil pests, and its fairly gentle on any beneficial populations you might have (RIP Hypoaspis).
Also, in my experience, Pyrethrin have not been that effective at nuking root aphid populations.
I know I kind of went on a ramble here so if I can clarify anything just ask.
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No infact that was an incredible response and thank you for taking that time!! I found two good resources listing the pesticides that nematodes are compatible with. I could not find the chemical that was in Triazicide on that list either good or bad for the Nematodes. I did read they are very conpatible with a lot of pesticides which is why people love them so much so I’m hoping I didn’t kill them, but with that being said, I watered with triazicide two days ago. Yesterday I watered again since it was 102 degrees and then last night watered in the nematodes. And you are correct, that one single plant is the only one that showed any issues and still remains so. I am going to keep a close eye from here on out and update with any relevant info. Thank you for your response and I’m going to re read it a few times to lock that knowledge in
No worries bud, glad i could be helpful. I think you should be in pretty good shape. Don’t worry too much about the nematodes they are surprisingly hard to kill, and depending on the root zone environment they can proliferate pretty quickly just on fungus gnat larvae and springtails and whatever else might be in there and persist for a good long time. The main thing that shortens their survivability over the long run is a high salt environment in the root zone but they can even tolerate that for a while.
Thanks! I got the trifecta pack of 3 different beneficial nematodes, and applied them pretty heavily. I bought one package per half of greenhouse. But overall things look great!
Pfr97 drench
Botaniguard max drench
Yellow sticky cards to indentify flyers
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Are you using a root additive with every watering?
I’m going to hang a bunch of sticky traps to get an idea of what’s in there. And no I am not using any kind of route additive when I water. Regular watering consist of earth juice seablast and supplemental silica usually every other watering
@BG305
You posted your ml/gal of microbe lift a while back but I cant find it any longer. I’m down to my last 1/2 bottle of promis I use for soil drench to rid FG complements of ffof soil. I’m ordering 1 gal of microbe lift later today.
the thread is over a year ago. i was gonna say - need a better pic. the one bug he posted is blurred but unfamiliar. It didnt look like a root aphid> but im no pro. Do ahids have antennae? NO