Whats up yall.
Considering upgrading recovery to a haskal.
Have access to a coupke trs and a cmep.
I have read around and onlu found 1 thread regarding conpressor size.
What size do you need?
How loud is this setup? I understand its loud but how much? Like hear it in the parking lot loud?
How much do you recover per min?
Also has anybody seen the alibaba haskels lol
I’ve set up Haskel systems for a few people in the past, they are air hogs. Haskel states a minimum of 25cfm, which equates to roughly 7.5hp depending on the brand of compressor and whether or not it came from China. However, if you’re looking to run these in a production environment, I would highly recommend that you oversize your compressor by 50% so as to not have it running at it’s limit all the time. You can buy rotary screw compressors for a good bargain used sometimes, depends on where you look. As far as noise goes, imagine Darth Vader standing next to you with a megaphone and breathing in your ear. This can be mitigated some by routing the air exhaust somewhere other than inhabited space. A company I work for is running two in series and when I park directly in front of their extraction room, I can faintly hear them chugging along through the masonry wall when I get out of my car. If you get it dialed in correctly you can recover upwards of .5lb/min. Never seen a knockoff on ali but I guess I haven’t really looked for it, you got a link?
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Haskell pumps use close to 30 CFM. A good 7.5 HP rotary screw should work at sea level in low humidity, but its worth getting a 10HP, especially if you are at any elevation
Most compressed air manufactures make packages with a compressor and dryer mounted on a tank. I would highly recommend this.
Also, Air compressors require regular maintenance, so its best to buy from a supplier who locally, stocks parts and has certified techs.
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This depends on if you are running a Reciprocating or Rotary Screw
Reciprocating compressors work well when over sized so that they can cycle on/of based on demand.
Rotary screw compressors are designed for constant duty and actually run best when at their limit.
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Get a compressor that is oversized. Mine is basically minimum spec and it doesn’t shut off all day.
My compressor is in its own room at my shop and it will run all day long. My room kept overheating the engine and it would thermal protect and shut down. I had to install ac for that otherwise unused room.
My neighbors have one just sitting outside and they had to switch to working nights cause the sun overheated it before they could get a run done.
Just a word of warning. I love haskel if not just because it makes me feel safe.
But take some extra time to figure out your compressor situation before you make a worthless purchase.
I’m in Socal BTW.
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Mine is 25.25cfm fyi
as long as the pressure is not dropping below 90 PSI you are properly sized
It would be very difficult to keep with with the heat load of the compressor with an AC. Instead, I would recommend ducting the air off the top of the compressor.
Hmm this pump seems to be too loud if you can here it from the parking lot.
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haskel sounds like a train running down the tracks.
~10hp compressor per haskel and a good air dryer.
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My logic behind this was that if the compressor was big enough that it could shut off for a while operating you could prevent excessive heat build up in the first place.
Solid advice though.
And yes you are right we installed ac (well a swamp cooler) and cut a hole in the wall so that it blows over the engine and is exhausted outside.
its good logic. Unfortunately 80% of power that goes to the compressor is converted to heat. (so its a more efficient heater than Compressor).
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BTW, I worked for three different air compressor companies and know Compressed Air Systems well. So its nice to spread some of the knowledge I gained over the years.
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Hi , Just in case you didn’t know their is a Haskel equivalent pump, from Australia, PEX series share with your friends, less expensive reliable product.
Protechpumps
They will give you all the answers you need😀
After a year of running a Haskel now I could add that a screw compressor would be the way to go. The one we have never shuts off but it holds a steady 120 psi all day. They are designed to run 24/7 with an oil life of 8000 hours. I order and change the filters myself. Very minimal maint. Ive even learned to rebuild a Haskel here out of necessity. All can be done in house no problem. Nit here to tell anybody anything just sharing the stuff ive learned this past year.
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You are right, it is more efficient to hook the pump directly to the electric motor that drives the compressor. The rule of thumb for a screw compressor is 3 to 4 scfm per horsepower and it takes about 24 scfm to power a 1 hp rotary vane air motor.
So what are the reasons we are willing to pay that premium?
One reason is that the Haskel pump and its all pneumatic controls can be run in a C1D1 room.
The second is that the pumps are relatively low maintenance, as well as being forgiving enough that you can stop one dead from operating speed without destructing. They require clean air, but provided with clean air, they will also operate under ghastly conditions.
Easy to rebuild yourself with detailed step by step video at Haskel’s site by Dave Gordon, who will also answer questions posted in the Haskel pneumatic refrigerative pump thread on IC Mag. Haskel pneumatic refrigerant pumps | International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums
It can be run on either single or double stage, allowing you to optimize recovery based on your process conditions. I set ours up to operate at 50 psi in single stage at 60 strokes per minute and if they stalled out, instead of increasing input air pressure, I just switched to two stage and resumed pumping.
As for noise, we measured under 45 db outside the extraction booth and it is more of a putt putt sound at 60 beats per minute. Not sharp, loud, or damaging inside the booth.
With regard to compressors, a 7.5/10 hp screw compressor with a refrigerative drier, low unloaded horsepower feature, and holding tank with automatic drain is what we recommended as a minimum, but you can run without accoutrements.
A screw compressor will run continuously, but your air stream will be hot and as moisture laden as the humidity of the air you are compressing.
If you have three phase, your choices are dramatically greater for new and good used industrial compressors, and a larger compressor with low unloaded horsepower gives you more flexibility, and the air more time to further cool down and lose water in the holding tank after exiting the refrigerative drier.
The low unloaded horse power feature allows the bigger motors to just spool unloaded when not compressing to reduce amp loading.
I recommend putting a ball valve in the air line to throttle the pump with, preceded by a combination pressure regulator/water trap/coalescing filter between it and the pump. Set the air pressure to 50 psi with the valve closed.
Open the valve slowly until your reach 60 cycles per minute and it will sit and putt all day.
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Also worth noting that nothing will get destroyed if you get liquid in one of these pumps. The same cannot be said for many electric pumps. They’re air hogs but pretty damn solid. Like @Graywolf said, if you have 3p power you can find plenty of deals for good scroll compressors.
This one might even be variable speed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ATLAS-COPCO-GA18-Used-25-HP-460V-3-PHASE/124082523646?hash=item1ce3e50dfe%3Ag%3ADjgAAOSwGyZeRYk-&LH_ItemCondition=4
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I agree, I’ve never expirienced a problem myself with stopping the pump dead. I built a small cooling loop for the time being that is partially submerged in a dry ice and alcohol slurry and I run an injection coil back into the tanks. The point is under these conditions ive seen as high as .9 lbs a min for the first 10 or so mins before the chiller starts to lag behind. This is with a standard CMEP setup.