General Distillate Questions

Hello, i have been distilling for a couple years now. I follow @Photon_noir and @Future on ig regularly. I have read every thread on this site that contains what i am looking for.

My main questions are:

  • Is there a way to neutralize (or buy) bleach clay and/or AC so i can use it in the boiling flask without isomerization?

I try to make the lightest colored product possible, as we all do, so im looking for an easy yet effective way to do so. Ive tried scrubs + degumming with enzymes but i cannot get as light of a color if i don’t use absorbents in the boiling flask

  • Have we figured out oxidation preventative measures?

Yes i keep my distillate under vac. Im talking more about making vape tanks. We will make 1k tanks but half of them discolor before even getting to a shop. I read @Shadownaught mention ECGC from green tea. Future tried Vitamin E. Photon has mentioned its either phosolipids, cannabinoids or both oxidizing. Ive noticed, like future has said, excessive degumming leads to rapid oxidation.

Ive picked up tree base klear for testing purposes. It didnt oxidize for weeks which leads me to believe there is a way to do.

  • Whats the best way for sure-fire water clear(or pale yellow) d9 distillate?

This kind of pairs with the first question. Like i mentioned, i prefer absorbents in the boiling flask. What would be the best way to avoid this? Id prefer to stay way from chroma if possible.


Well, sure fire method is to crystallize THCa, then just decarb and distill it under vacuum. Neutralizing clay or AC deactivates them, but you would need so much base to do it that it would negatively impact the distillation process. And fyi, oxidation of cannabinoids can happen invisibly.


You always give the “right” answer but never the answer id like to hear :sweat_smile: But thank you for the hasty reply!

Im working with the blackest of black crude. Supplier is consistent and tests clock in at 60ish% but still very black. When we spoke before, you told me thca crystalization is best with high quality shatter and not soupy crude.

Okay so it seems like the proper method is still scrubs, washes and multiple distills?

Context/Edit: When i say oxidize i mean discolor. Im mostly trying to prevent major color changes.

Final edit: Btw photon! Need to update your blog! Good reads and you havent posted in years :frowning:


Yeah, I am pretty busy these days writing technical stuff, so not much time for musing, but glad you liked it! Yes, scrubbing can help, but a low (pressure) and slow (low temperature) distillation can work to give great results, too. Horizontal vapor phase fractionation, ala @breaking.dabs , is also useful.

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Glad to hear work is good! Hope all is well :slight_smile:

We currently run at 50 microns. Cant seem to get past that with current hardware. Tested at the top of the distilling head to be as close as possible.

Okay im thinking of taking my curde, winterizing and degumming and then trying acetone and ethanol crystalizing(seperate experiments). Hopefully will have good results.

Xtractordepot also sells 7ph clay. Not sure if itll work since you said the acid is required but might as well give it a try.

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I never said the acid is required… only that activated stuff will be deactivated by base.

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That gives me hope for their product! Thank you so much photon :slight_smile: In the end, you do give the answers i am looking for! Like i said, hope all is well! You have a wonderful day good sir! :slight_smile:


Good luck! :wink:

Pretty sure @Shadownaught has a neutral clay

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We do have a neutral pH activated clay and you could blend in some of our hardwood activated carbon for a very interesting bleaching alternative.

DM me your contact information and I will get you materials to test out.


The neutral clay is cool, but I don’t think @xizqu wants to defeat the purpose with another acid activated material like aC. There are neutral adsorbents and absorbants that work.

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He wouldn’t be defeating the purpose. He said he gets his best results from flask additives and the options from our catalog are wide: neutral activated clay, mol sieve, silica gel, alumina, Mg-Si, etc.

We see other folks get the results Xi was seeking from those materials listed above. I personally don’t push people to put anything in the flask as prep is king, especially for WFE…but hey, that cat can get skinned in myriad ways.

True that. He said he wants them for the flask, though, so I wanted to make sure he knows aC is also acidic catalyst for isomerization.

A neutral bleaching clay is an acidic catalyst?

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Great point!

AC in fine powder form can also jump to the collection vessel with enough boiling energy.

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No, but it is lightly activated with acidic water to improve function before achieving a final neutral pH during washout and particle classification.

The key factor is the number of Lewis acid sites. T41 is covered in acid sites in the matrix where as T5 relies on the crystal matrix itself for function.


what does the acidic clay isomerize the product to?

delta-8 and then god-knows-what…THC Imposters (Isomers)


Activated clay has some Lewis acidity as @Shadownaught mentioned. @xizqu was saying he wanted aC (activated carbon) as well as clay, which will definitely cause isomerization in the boiling flask.

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There are neutralized activated carbons on the market as well.