I just want to get confirmation that the GC 5000 from
Precision doesn’t use any oil. Oil less pistons I’d assume would mean no oil just some type of lubricant? If so any idea what the lubricant is called and how often it’s supposed to be changed?
Thanks
The piston seals get lightly greased/lubed when replaced, that’s all the consumables for this unit unless you fuck up a piston sleeve from improper rebuild.
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My GC 5000 definely takes oil
Has a dip tube and everything. Maybe I’m tripping, I got a bunch of systems so I could be getting confused but I remember putting oil in it. Will confirm tomorrow
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Okay thanks so you have any idea what oil you use and what type of filter that is so I can replace it
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Looks like I was incorrect. 2.5 years since I’ve ran one of these things lol.
Not sure of filter size, but looks like a standard automotive can style filter.
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You’re correct on the automotive filter, pretty sure that’s what I use too.
@TerpsXr this is the oil I’ve been using in my GC5000 for a few years without any issues:
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-101016-Automotive-Accessories-gallons/dp/B06XC86C9B
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This is a compressor so youll have two zones, the upper zone will be sealed by some sort of packing around the piston structure. This packing creates a seal between the top and bottom zones. The bottom zone uses compressor oil to keep the moving parts lubed, the packing makes sure the oil never makes it’s way up to the gas compression zone up top. So the upper zone components will me manufactured in such a way that they can operate without lubcrication. Ours used consumable washer rings to maintain tolerances. Hope that helps.
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they forsure take oil. we ran a hard line from the drain out to the side of the unit to make oil changes much easier
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how often are you doing oil changes?
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We extract everyday so I try and change it completely every 500 hours, but I check the dipstick every few days to make sure the consistency and level is correct. Sometimes we change it before 500 hours if we are doing a teardown
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you have an idea of what the part # is so i can look it up to order one. Thanks
or should i just take old oil filter to auto store and have them match the right one up?
That’s what I had to do for my Corken because they painted over the filter. I brought the old filter into the store and did it myself.
It should be pretty easy to do, a lot of the oil filters use the same base and threads but have different filter housing sizes.
The one I found was the right base/threads but was a little larger filter housing than what the pump came with but it’s working fine.
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Lmao they painted over mine to. Appreciate it!
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I just swapped my oil filter today and I could not find any part numbers on it or anything…until I looked deeper and mine was painted over also!! Heres the link to the one from NAPA that they paint over and am currently using: oil filter
I can even see the NAPA logo underneath the paint.
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Yea I guess it’s standard painting procedure to coat the crap out of these pumps for rough conditions in the oil/gas industry.
When I first got my Corken the pulleys were badly misaligned (what idiot was supposed to check that before shipping?) and caused the belt to rub very loudly.
So I went to adjust it. For the life of me I couldn’t remove the pulley off the electric motor shaft.
I had to go buy one of those hydraulically assisted pulley removers to get it off after having Corken support tell me it should be pretty easy to remove by hand and they had no idea why my wouldn’t budge.
I was cranking the hydraulic puller so hard I thought surely the pulley would break but with a loud crack it suddenly popped off undamaged.
After inspecting things I discovered that so much of that damn industrial enamel paint had gotten between the pulley and shaft that it had basically glued it in place.
This all caused me to have a couple more days of down time after the down time I had already had in order to get the pump installed in the first place.
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I can completely sympathize. Once you get burned by issues like that from a company, I always take their packaging/shipping and cleanliness standards with a grain of salt. Looking over new parts or equipment with a fine-toothed comb and sanitizing the stainless until it’s ready for production is very time consuming, but worth it in the end. Some of these parts turn rags black with dust for a few days.