Gary Payton, soap, baby Yoda, apples and bananas, ogkb 2.1, Apple fritter, my grease monkey f2 keeper, grape pie and a lot of it’s crosses, some faceoff crosses - all of these and a bunch more have great effect
Haven’t tried them yet but I have heard great things about E85, project 4510, white truffle, Georgie pie
People hate on it but I love the high of Mac1 as well
Things that don’t get me high: purple punch and almost everything it touches, gelato 33 and about everything it touches, candyland, oreos forgetting a few but that’s because I’m smoking on some fritter and grease money and those both definitely are effective!
9/10 times anything i see from oregon is about only good for bio mass, there are definitely exceptions to that but it seems to be the standard for the last handful of yrs
First time I grew the Larry bird I was so excited. Stuff looked absolutely incredible at the time and I was so excited to smoke it. Got my sample went home and started blazing it and it felt like decaf weed and I was so bummed. Other people liked it but it just doesn’t do it for me.
I disagree. The problem with Oregon is that the conditions are so perfect for cannabis in Southern Oregon that hillbillies get dogshit fake cuts have a greenhouse and just blow up the market with fake cuts and then anybody with land can grow and gets stuck with the cuts because they don’t know they just have inlaw or friend and gorilla grow something that should be eaten by a goat. But there are many people here with exceptional genetics and great gardening skills. I don’t know if most of those people progressed into legal but as for just the people I know here there are up to speed because I can’t remember the strains they say usually. Just what I smoke. The indoor game is not the best I would say. Coming from Florida I had experience and was cultured to Florida grow disciplines required which is regulating the temp of your environment. Colorado had way better indoor too. So maybe your correct but I know some people doing it correct here. The results seem to be better then what’s available at dispensaries so maybe you’ll are right. I’m probably just lucky. I’ll take it though.
Ya i was surprised this out door year how very few different cuts people had up there, your right most of the big outdoor i saw this summer was not up to par but i don’t go very deep into oregon and if imagine everything that makes it here has been picked over or rejected up there.
I think the big boys moved into hemp. Also most people here have light dep but not really. Like if you can grow decent here it comes out as deps outside. Just depends when the rains come. I would argue at a glg with you that Oregon produces far more then Humboldt now. I would bet on average the grows are more experienced there. But it’s just like wine and wine country is moving north. The lands cheaper.
Ya alot did it seems, also all the people pulling a hemp permit and then running non -hemp has really blown up. Sucks most gets pollinated from the hemp, the outdoor there this hr was a 700 acre hemp farm that had no one doing hemp. It is now for sale, so we’ll see what happens next yr. Heard they were gonna be cracking down on coking out to test the fields this yr
I dunno i heard that was a issue in Cali. I know this year there’s more regulation as usual. I know you don’t want to test hot and if it’s in a certain range I think it goes to the dea but I might have not heard the testing guy when he picked up samples of hemp. I think it goes into effect soon for Oregon.
Also after a couple hundred bucks in grams at 5 dispensaries I understand the term exotic now. 2 strains were worth a shit. After smoking it all I came to the conclusion I was 100% wrong on the term exotic and Oregon has bullshit weed. Half of what I looked at was light dep being sold as indoor, shit genetics, and not cured properly holding a musky smell. What’s wrong with people. I have 2 grams I bought that you had to change the water after. I get where you all are coming from. I’m a dipshit. I own. At least by me being a dipshit I found out what time it was. 5k a cut seems like these big farms here should get your number. There is straight garbo in the dispensary though. The edibles were pretty good.
Well everyone time for my next journal installment. This one will take you through the begins of crop steering. Hoping to remember to grab my Aroya sensor tomorrow so I can take some new dry back readings but I’ll run you through where I am at.
I am on day 9 of veg these are my calculations for what I’m doing with watering. As soon as dry down begins happening regularly (5-8 days usually) I begin watering to signal vegetative growth. This essentially means 2 hours after lights come on I initiate the first feeding. Over the next 1-2 hours I am trying to work my way up to Max water content in the block. I use small blocks so I am trying to do it in about an hour. I know my blocks fully saturated hold about 68% water content. My current 14 hour dry back (2 hour after lights on till 2 hours before lights off) gets down to about 45%. This means I am losing about 23% of the volume of the cube in water over that period. A 4x4x4 rockwool block is about 1049 ml. So that is a dry back if about 241 ml in 14 hours. Or about 17 ml/hour. Why this is important is it I ran only 17 ml of water to my blocks each hour water content would never increase, so this much be factored for in these calculations. If I continue keeping water content near saturation until two hours before lights off my dryback overnight by dryback will be from about 68% water content to only 58% water content meaning to work my way back up I need give 10% (104.9 ml) of the volume of the block in the first hour + what it will dry out in that first hour (17 ml) total 121.9 ml. To prevent channeling I irrigate every 15 minutes max. This gives you 4 irrigations in the first hour of 30 ml each to work back up to field capacity. Then every few hours as dry down happens I bring it back up to capacity with a little bit of runoff all the way until two hours before lights off.
I would always recommend checking flow on drippers to ensure everything is working correctly. To do this I ran 30 drippers into a container and ran them for 30 seconds. I ended up with 300 ml of water. Meaning each dripper is emitting 10 ml of water every 30 seconds.
This means I will run my irrigations for 90 seconds 4x in the first hour of irrigation. This will bring me back up to field capacity and then by giving additional pulses as dry down occurs I am able to signal vegetative growth. I am going to flip any day now (really holding the entire thing up for a white truffle I added in 2 days ago to catch up).
When I flip I will begin signaling generative growth throughout the stretch which will be completely different timing.
You would initially think this constant watering would build up salt in the block and EC would rise but it is really the opposite. Frequent irrigations prevent the massive EC spike caused by dry downs.
I’ll try to find my glasses to take pictures through as the fluence light fucks my camera up into oblivion and the only solution i have found is to shoot through the glass lense. Also will bring the Aroya by to get updated dry down readings. Every day as your roots grow these things change so as a grower you are doing your best to hit a moving target.
This is the best and most straightforward explanation of vegetative crop steering and dry downs I’ve ever seen.
Thank you for adding this to the forum! I can’t wait to read along with this grow log and then try all this at home/small grow to see if I want to scale it
Couldn’t find the glasses (buying a new pair today along with a bunch of other goodies) so I snapped a pic outside the room of a fairly average plant in the room at day 9 of veg. That truffle is lagging having only been in the room a couple days but everything else is ready to flip. Might take the truffle out for the first 3-4 days of flowering so I can get this show on the road I just ready don’t want to stare at her in veg until the next round but I can’t wait any longer it it’s going to be a chaos jungle in there and I’m going to have to cut out a ton of branches.
Noticed a slight discoloration of the leaves and first thing I always check when that happens is pH. I have bluelabs meter in the res constantly but my experience is they can lose calibration fast af sometimes. All it takes is a bump and they are out of whack. Sure enough I double check res, meter says 5.8 but test strips and other meter say 5.5. recalibrated and it seems to corrected but I’m still switching the probe today.
I used to run grodan blocks at 5.5 all day but these cultilene cubes are the shit and don’t constantly spike the pH like grodan wool did/does. So 5.7-5.8 gives a much happier plant.
Forgot to mention vpd in the last post for veg where they are currently at I’m shooting for a .8 vpd
CO2 is at 900 ppm slowly ramping it as I brighten my fluence (currently at around 40% raising 2-3% per day)
Speaking of Grodan vs. Cutilene rockwool, Grodan added a buffer so you shouldn’t have to pre-soak/treat them anymore and (probably) won’t have the pH spikes you speak of.
Ya that’s what I have heard. It was getting better a few years ago when I was running them. What really seals the deal for me is $70 for a case of 4x4x4 cultilene is like half the price I was paying for grodan.
