EHO Color Remediation



What about that weird bucket cold trap thingy that BBV has? Hold on, I’ll find it

This thing. I wonder if it could be made for cheap


That’s actually one of the first things on my list of upgrades after I get a product I can take to market.

Mwahhaha! I was just playing with my distiller and I can set it anywhere from 0-100°C. So quick question about recovery without vacuum… To recover the majority of my solvent, what temperature is ideal then? Still 40-45°C? If yes, how long can a person expect it to take to evap 90% of 2.5-3L of ethanol?

Also, in response to the exposure time and temperature when using t-5, I’m hoping 24hrs will suffice with regular agitation, maybe every 30 minutes instead of every hour.

Finally, can passing through activated alumina break the azeotrope of water to ethanol in my solution so I don’t have to try to evap it out later?


Try to get 30-35c if you can. I don’t know how without vac, efficiently, maybe a small fan blowing across?


Evaporation temperature of Ethanal is 76c. You’re not gonna have much luck below that temperature. Gonna be at least in the 8-36h range anywhere below that temperature.

If you can blow the fan accross it’ll add mechanical energy into the system and will certainly increase the speed it comes off at.



Ooooh, that’s scaring me on the celite end… :frowning:


Imploding glass sucks way more than imploding (collapsing) stainless.

I once tried a glass vacuum desiccator lid on a 9” Pyrex pie pan.

It worked great until it didn’t (thanks @beaker)…at which point there was flying glass and unpurged BHO everywhere.

I had to solvent wash a 150lb mastiff…

So I highly recommend a dry run :joy:

Edit: just noticed the “educational glass” label…it was certainly a learning experience.


Now I really want that cold trap, like a 1 gal unit I could recover my ethanol directly into. Using the vacuum chamber and a water bath.

That’ll be my next run. I’m super excited for Tuesday, should have my vac chamber on Monday, then I’ll vac test it.

I haven’t used any of my equipment yet, Panda, vacuum chamber, distiller. I imagine I should clean them all or run them a little with clean ethanol. @cyclopath How would you clean a Panda before it’s first use? I figure for everything else I’ll just wipe down with ethanol.


Degreaser of some sort, limonene or other plant based flavor.

Decent detergent such as alconox

Then water. Then extraction solvent.

Swapping in an air-powered motor would also be on my list if I went the panda route.


I’m doing my math rn and it sounds like for a solution of 2.5L containing approximately 40g of oil I would need to use 250g of t-5 just to achieve 10%. Is that accurate? Or should it be 20% to estimated oil of 40g, so 8g? 8 seems awfully low, but 250g already sounds like a lot and that’s not even 20% :dizzy_face::dizzy_face::dizzy_face:

I’m actually working with 400g so I’m only going to use 2.5L, then I’ll probably only have like 2 after what I lose to the material. So 200g or 8g I guess would be more accurate. Both seem high and low still, to me, though.

I’ll be doing a dump in and agitate method for the bentonite scrub btw


I don t think so but hell try iT :rofl::rofl::rofl:


Lol the 10% by weight measurement comes from the weight of your extract, not the volume of your solvent used to dissolve that extract.

Also I was reading about DME synthesis and learned that acid activated aluminas, zeolite, and zircon medias act as a dehydration catalyst to alcohol and turn alcohols into their respective ethers due to the acid sites present in the medias.

I understood this to mean that a hot scrub with acid activated alumina in ethanol could potentially create the conditions needed to synthesize diethyl ether, a compound that forms explosive peroxides when exposed to the atmosphere. Not sure if the way ininterepreted that was correct or not.


Wow. 8gs sounds like such a tiny amount.

Of course my oil to solvent ratio is already starting in the 50:1 range lol The amount of ethanol is based off @TheLostBiologist’s Bucket tek.


I think that when you want your oil to interact strongly with the bentonite, its probably better to have less ethanol in the solution. Maybe try to get your mixture to 2:1 ethanol:oil, then add the bentonite. to filter it out, you could just dilute your mixture a bit more to make it easier.


That does sound like it might work better, but I’m concerned about keeping the product very cold until filtration is complete to reduce the negative impact of colored compounds on my final product.


I have been wondering something related to this…

If you do a cold ethanol wash, and then do a course and then fine filter to remove all plant material aka no small solid plant matter, everything is dissolved in the ethanol. If you were to allow this mixture to warm to room temperature, and then you re froze it to cryo temperatures, would there be any difference between the cold mixture right after filtering and the cold mixture after re chilling?
I’m thinking that they would be exactly the same, the only difference could possibly be molecules that degrade around room temp, which i doubt is happening.
If this is true, as long as you remove all small plant matter from the mixture, the change in temp shouldnt affect color, and should be reversible if you choose to do cold filtration. Someone please tell me if I am wrong.


Well When cooling your etho again Some fats and Waxes still pop out of solution minor but some


I don’t think anything in what you proposed will decolour in relation to temperature. Any decoloration (I believe) is a product of higher temperature (40c+) and oxygen.


So the first thing I’d like to note about bucket tek vs bho… Wow does that trim get pulverized. The biomass pulp I pulled out was crazy lol.

I forgot to take a bunch of pictures in the beginning. The initial extraction was very cloudy, due to the build up of pulp from agitation alongside large chunks of dry ice.

I’ll take some pictures of the tincture post winterization with weights on the pulp removed and the fats removed. Weights ended up being under .5g winterized material and 26g biomass pulp(I think a lot of fats ended up here).

Forgot pictures again. Added 8g of t-5 to approximately 2L and have been stirring regularly.

I did catch something brown/orange during a 2hr dry ice winterization. I saved those filters. A lot of chlorophyll came through so it’s like hulk p*ss rn.

Bentonite falls out of solution very fast, unlike ac I’ve worked with in the past. To keep it suspended it definitely needs constant mixing, so I can we where sonicating would be very handy. There are a lot of smaller particles floating around, but I’d say 70% falls to the bottom within 30 seconds.


The “pulping” is likely caused by the agitation. You can avoid the chlorophyll with gentle/no agitation. AC is a super fast fix for the greens :slight_smile: