I guess maybe you could but I’m not sure it’s a reliable method. The true best method would be to test every adsorbent by itself as a single scrub. Then you can start doing combinations.
Maybe pass them through a filter of celite after extended agitation, or could you just use the magisil as the final filter to be sure we’ve removed any media particles?
Again, not ruling that out either.
But as a reminder, I’m only really piggybacking on what the other members in this community have already accomplished. They have gotten great results from these adsorbents at question and am simply attempting to mimic their results. Although not everything applies to EtOH, I’ve learned quite a bit from their trials and errors and can only hope someone can say the same about ours here.
Unless you or another member has a definitive answer for us, we just have to pick a starting point and go for it. My determined starting point was the result of the information I’ve gathered from this community.
Who knows, maybe none of these adsorbents will make a difference with ethanol extracts? …at least we’ll know right?
The lenticular filter plates I’m working on, using Carbon Chem media’s, should help this thread a bunch…
My line of thinking is that you’d actually get better results using scrub method because of longer dwell time and more thorough exposure.
Was just thinking about it though. Just having a stack of filters on the bottom of my column is much quicker and easier
On the contrary, my thought process is to purposely limit the exposure to these new(to me) adsorbents as im unfamiliar with their effects. I’ve used T5 enough so feel comfortable with the prolonged exposure via scrub.
I promise - there is a method to my madness
There’s certainly a madness to my method as well…
Not sure what the difference would be!
I really just need to buy some small scale gear and waste 100g seeing what the best method is
This guy keeps telling me he’s going to bring all this trim and a large pickle jar he’s converted into a vacuum chamber for me to play with, but as of yet he keeps cancelling.
I’m chomping at the bit to try this, but I do still need to at least buy some magisil and activated alumina.
Are you guys trying to make water clear distillate.
I’m personally aiming for close to water clear crude. I’m not overly fond of the distillation concept due to price point, yield information I’ve heard, and the learning curve.
I’m banging out some pretty high grade distillate, but for me the color remediation is just a marketing thing. Hard to change the public’s mind when they’ve got a hard-on for bright colors.
I mean look at every oil we cook with… trust me, none of the oils you eat actually look like that coming out of the plant. Oils are bleached primarily for presentability so we’re just victims of bright and shiny=better.
I’m a little more of a fan of fuller spectrum extract (sans bittering agents) just because it’s a great plant!
My end goal is probably ethanol crystallization and turpene re-introduction into some kinda fancy sauce, as well as continue my line of ancillary products (tinctures/pills/creams/etc.)
same…plus who knows what is happening in those boiling flasks: THC Imposters (Isomers)
A friend of mine has been making clear distillate in norcal for awhile.
Ill see if he wants to share his scrubbing methods
He is doing clear distillate and said to have the oxidation figured out
Good looking stuff. I’ll upload some before and after pictures of my carbon/bentonite/silica scrub of some 4x winterized crude I’m working with. The only problem I’ve had is taking out the reds, seems everything else has color wise has been almost entirely removed.
I heard carbon turns it orange and grabs thca
Maybe aa will help
Have you tried Activated Alumina? I think @Dred_pirate mentioned he noticed some red being captured by the Alumina in his inline filter
Carbon likely doesnt cause any colors to change, it probably just isnt effective at picking up the orange colors.