Deodorization Techniques

One tek I am aware of is using a rotovap that can hit high temps of 190C. Yamato BO601 can do it with Dynalene 600. Load your first pass distillate into the evaporating flask, heat up distilled water to 150C and add it in slowly. Hit 150-160C in the rotovap’s bath to use the water’s polarity to pull off those impurities. You’ll see your receiving flask get cloudy from stripping away esthers, terps, and fatty acids. Push for higher temps of 160-170C to strip away some Myclo if there is any. Once your receiving flask starts to look clean, you’re good. Ready for a second pass in the spd.

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If you use a degumming method before this hotvap technique you should see an easier strip and better result.


im confused. do u mean 150f or ru going for metastable water? ive also heard the main cause of that cloudiness is a-pinene

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150 Celsius.

so yes on the meta stable water?

I’d imagine an oil bath would be easiest.

Dynalene 600

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Are you pulling a vaccum on your roto also? I imagine that water 50c over it BP when introduced to a vaccum and more heat would instantly flash. Does this outrun your condenser also? I imagine that this would carry a lot of btu’s to the condenser.

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It is one way of generating metastable water but it’s not what we are going for here. Just trying to vaporize and pull out water soluble impurities that have an odor.

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A water/terp azeotrope


yea i kinda just let it go but u def can get water to 150c without trickiness

Pressurized water gets hotter for cheaper. Steam deodorization intrigues me.

There are surely better and larger stainless options though

yes me to but i he said add to ur oil. ive never heard someone refer to steam like that

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You could pressurize and heat steam in a separate chamber, and throttle it through a sparge tube to hit the oil

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well u can just make water not boil till 150c with pressure. i understand if he skipped it the first time but then i asked about it. at that point why would he just not explain it

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Bump trap. Not all designs do the same thing. There’s a few people on IG that use a kjeidahl flask. It works by wicking the fractions through. But the other “anti-climb” trap can be used to remove everything from the cannabinoids fractions without removing the cannabinoids themselves, it does this pretty efficiently. By refluxing in the bump trap, vapor is allowed to leave through the heated bump column. But distillate is left behind because as a viscous liquid it has trouble “climbing out” it eventually can but it either requires a diffusion pump or too high of temps to be viable. But if the material is then subjected to a standard short path head, it climbs effortlessly… the mixture in the boiling flask, will not pop at all from this point on and distillation of the cannabinoids is more like “steaming them off”. Tails fraction is also very apparent. Material done this way can be heated to 150C+ without any smells apparent… and without changing color in atmosphere.


Hey, best easy way to deodorize I’ve found is activated carbon scrub in etoh, filter, and roto. If your going to do this why not do a c- bleach scrub while your at it!


I ran a steam distillation rig on the extract for a long time before I could afford a decent vacuum pump. It can even pull cannabinoids over. Steam distillation only works for compounds that are both volitile AND are immiscible in water. THC and terpenes both can be distilled this way and avoid heat degredation because the temp never goes much higher than 98C.

No vacuum needed. I used a double neck boiling flask and a standard distillation head. For steam I used an Erlengmeyer flask heated seperately just off to the side of the boiling flask. On top of the steam flask was a kjedhal bulb bump trap. Out of the bump trap was a barb fitting I put a rubber hose onto. On the other end of the steam hose I put a glass bleeder tube and inserted that into a thermometer adapter. This is put into the thermometer well of the boiling flask and the tip of the tube placed just under the boiling puddle.

Temp on both flasks then set to boiling water. The steam injector bleeder tube is positioned just under the boiling puddle. Once steam begins to flow distillation begins. All temps generally stay under 105C and mostly carry out at 98C. Terpenes come off first then if you wait the condenser starts to become cloudy and after a while the cannabinoids begin to come across. It is highly effective as a low temp distillation technique. Once the cannabinoids begin to come over you must switch to heated water in the condenser or it loads up the condenser with cannabinoid and will block it. The first fraction off is water white milky pinene and smells like a pine tree on steroids. I use a tap off my sink in the kitchen for condenser water supply and just switch to hot water when the sticky stuff begins to run. It works very well to fraction the compound.

I will say that it is very hard on the boiling flasks. My steam injector blowing steam into that boiling puddle for a half hour or more ended up eventually cracking the glass on every flask (3 of them) used liked this after several runs just under the injector tube. It creates one hell of a hot spot at that point. If I still did this technique I would look for a steam injector tube that did not focus a hot spot that way but with the injector running the system works great and no vacuum is needed at all.


while probably technically possible the amount of water you would need to boil to get an appreciable amount that way is ridiculous.
check this out
HotGasVacuumEP_1385595_B1.pdf (797.2 KB)

My steam generator was a 250 ml flask and generally was enough to run a half ounce to an ounce before refill. The position of the steam injector is key to this. It must be made to be injected under the puddle. It only took a few moments to fill the water but I ran this way for a long time and it does indeed work without undue refilling of the steam generator. You will use a large volume of water compared to the compound you are trying to distill but this method is a very old and proven technique used for organic distillation in order to avoid thermal degredation. I have done this personally many times and know from observation that it works.

I do not have conclusive numbers but from my own labs it appears as if water is needed at 10 to 20 times the volume of extract for steam to run this way. So 20 grams of extract will take a minimum of 200-400 ml of water for the steam needed.