transition from wall to floor is radiused. might be able to get close using the plastic inserts that came with the rotor. although one set is clearly from a different rotor…
big fan of Cardboard Aided Design 
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got cad software? print full size circle, cut it out, and compare it?
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I always used ball bearings and a little prussian blue to measure inside fillet features. Just blue up the inside of the radius and push the ball into it, see if you get an even coat
Also, for your purposes you’ll want to overestimate the radius on the insert so it doesn’t interfere and only make contact on the fillet
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Paint ball…what will they think of next?
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So you’re saying I should have the Prussian witness the fillet, with itty bitty metal balls. Got it.
My loose bearing collection is pretty sparse, last time I recall having multiple sizes at my fingertips was more than 25yrs ago when I was trying to optimize grinding plant tissue in 15 & 50ml conical centrifuge tubes on a vortex mixer. Single bearing turned out to be ideal in the 50ml. Ended up using a custom glass rod in the 15ml.
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If you’re good you can get pretty close with a fit pin but it’s not perfect. Based on your mechanical seal woes I’m willing to bet you have some spare bearing bits kicking around
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Haven’t really decided that’s my problem yet. 
I’m hoping the guys that broke it can solve the problem without me…but I also refuse to be at their mercy…(which might actually mean I have to rip apart a second machine to get measurements 
)
Having “yep, you can just MAKE one” up my sleeve (and access to some really talented machinists, here and in Eugene), I’m ok for now. It’s also clear it’s a pretty common problem that can be solved by multiple vendors.
For what it’s worth, a buddy of mine in pharma/medical devices rarely gets the ok to use delrin on anything in their GMP environment. I don’t have a ton of details, other than it must in some way be cause for concern in their strict quality assurance program.
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Yep, still in Eugene. I’ll get more info on the buckets I have today. It’s easy enough to make changes to the inserts if needed to fit the buckets you have.
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buckets look to be 100mm in diameter and 94mm deep.
I’d put the fillet in the bottom at ~15mm radius.
all I had was some salt dough in the fridge, and the dimensional stability isn’t great 
I’ll firm that up with a blue balled Prussian witness per @SidViscous at some point.
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There you go! I suppose the other method you could use for this manufacturing experiment would be a little bondo, a little fairing filler, and some mold release paraffin. Once it’s cast you could probably even go to town with a pencil grinder to take some more weight out of it and then coat with something nice and solvent resistant. Admittedly we’re getting a little bit hacky on this last idea
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You sure about that 100 millimeter measurement? It says 98 on the description of the bottles you listed above
I know @GreenMachineLabs made sleeves for @VoodooExtracts1 that fit right and were balanced
Here’s the baskets the sizes are included in the drop down box
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my harbor freight calipers say 100.7mm
I don’t put a lot of faith in that measurement, but it’s what I’ve got for now. inserts I read as 99.5mm
I generally trust them to the nearest mm (which isn’t very far).
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I’m thinking swing buckets of this particular size are somewhat standard. The centrifuge I have is a Silencer 2210. The swing buckets are “silencer” brand and are probably rebadged items. They measure about 100mm diameter. The inserts I made are 100mmx70mm and seem to do a good job. The 50mm vials are a little tight, but workout well enough. The bottom of the buckets have a slight radius, but I have a 3.5mm rubber disc that sits at the bottom of the bucket that were in the buckets when I got the centrifuge.
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You could probably just make it a sliding fit. Maybe threads just on the lower part to hold the screen from pushing through. After all, they do kind of generate a lot of gravity…
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I get nervous with the loose bits on account of all the extra gravity. Hearing a lid pop off isn’t fun
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thank you Sir!
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Personally, I’d make the top part like this to provide a little more rigidity, eliminate a component, protect the male threads a bit better, and use a strap wrench to open/close and eliminate a milled feature at the same time.
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So make it load upside down and seal the basket to the tube with the threads? That’s clever
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