Up. Maybe someone knows the way? Does jar tec provide this consistency? Next Week our Rosin bomb arrives and i would love to do some carts
I know a few different ways. But if you want it decarbed for an autofiller then I recommend low temps over a longer duration. This way you will alter your terpene ratio less than if you were to quickly decarb at high temps.
4 Likes
Dred explained a low temp decarb on live resin, I imagine you can use the same sop
4 Likes
I seriously love this Platform. Thank you all
1 Like
It will take longer but I’d recommend even lower temps. that’s something you can play around with
1 Like
This is some hte that needed a second crash, I kinda messed up and applied to much heat, but definitely not near 140. All I did was put it on a heat mat and put a shirt over it. Ended up this by accident
I’d say it got near 120.
1 Like
HTFractions via mechanical separation is another way. It’s more work and a lower yield but can be a more flavorful end product if done right.
2 Likes
Already got the fritted tubes. Just waiting to buy my fuge.
4 Likes
Has anyone ever tried or heard of using a cold trap to capture some of the more volatile terpenes that might cook off during decarbing or if having them sealed in a jar keeps them anyway?
1 Like
Ideally, there should not be any terpenes cooking off while decarboxylating. To do this, you decarb the rosin under pressure so they can re condense when the final product is brought back to room temp. Like everyone is saying, low and slow. I like to keep a magnetic stir bar in with the rosin as well.
If you want to get real fancy, you can flush the head space of the jar with an inert gas or nitrogen before you seal it to avoid any unwanted oxidation of those compounds.
4 Likes
Does adding pressure have any effect on the temperature required to decarb? Or just the boiling points.
3 Likes
Neither
Edit: Doh!! I should learn to read. No coffee yet…
Yes, raises the boiling points, but the idea is to use a closed system and re-condense any vapors produced, so raising the boiling points isn’t the GOAL, and you’re STILL making vapor, it simply can’t escape, so losses are minimized.
Decarb energy requirement should remain unchanged, so decarb temp should too.
Rather than a simple sealed “bomb”, one also could use a vessel with condenser. O2 isn’t good for your volatiles, so a closed system will be presumably give better results
5 Likes
The problem with mechanical separation is people are choosing to do it a very “redneck” way. Fuck using a rosin press for mechanical separation. Order a centrifuge and put fritted disk vials in it and it will mechanically separate without terpene loss.
This guy gets it. Idk why people still use a press for mechanical separation. Open air separation will always cost you terps. Same reason you should vacuum seal your jar before decarbing, but the industry won’t tell you that because then they’ll have nothing better than what you have.
A vacuum would lower the boiling points…wouldn’t it?
Absolutely.
Boiling point == vapor pressure is same as ambient.
Lower pressure = lower boiling point.
However, I was replying to @Jarijuana who was referencing RAISING the pressure.
Because we were discussing Decarb under pressure to retain terps?
Lmao my high ass got lost as fuck
Thanks for all the info so far. I’m still a bit confused about the process. I have live resin badder and would like to combine it with distillate to make a blended cart.
I’d like to do a 1:1 ratio of distillate to badder. It seems I should do more than just decarb the badder because I keep reading I should dewax, decarb, then degas. Are these the proper steps?
I have a 3 gallon vacuum chamber. Do I decarb the badder then degas. Do I have to dewax? At what point do I use the vacuum chamber, should it be heated, and how long do I use it?
You dewaxed it if you extracted it at sub zero temperatures essentially.
1 Like